1981 650H "Restoration"

Really good observation - thank you - I ordered plug wires in red on a whim... I don't believe they are avail in yellow - black probably would've been a more conservative choice - I need to think about a change to black or I like your idea (very much ) for the grab bar trim line - I dunno maybe the red is distraction and I should just get rid of it - I do not want red letters on the motor - Also, there are still a few other details I don't quite like - stay tuned more to come... (After the weekend)

Any and all input is welcome

Thanks

 

--- I think I like the look of these "carbon" turny's
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Don't try this at home kids... The new turn signals clearly make the bike faster I'll have to get a dyno test to measure the difference
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We have yellow plug wire (zero-resistance) in stock...........

 

Thanks -- Didn't know that -- Mine have magically turned black -- see 2nd and 3rd pictures above -- I thought about yellow, but my (above)friend alerted me to the whisker-like look of the red, and I didn't like the idea in yellow either --

However, the grab bar black-stripe will become yellow -- and the stripe on the foot-peg aluminum bar will be yellow ---

Also, my new rear shocks are delayed getting here, so I can't finish the rear-end this week end --- GRRRR

Finally, the bike went for a ride this morning!!!!!!!!!!!

 

How are the cams performing?

 

Len,

I just came back from a lunch run to a quaint little place in Wanamaker, PA (a general store with great soups, sandwiches, fresh pies, and fresh ground coffee)... This run on top of the run I did this morning totals about 50 miles today. I'll continue by saying that I am very glad to have upgraded the front brake "system" given the new performance. I can't stop smiling... ...

As advertised, the cam specs are repeated here: Megacycle cams; part number: 256-00 specs are (I) .354" 254° 108° (E) .354" 254° 108° (stock pistons and springs; mid-range boost; some top-end) ---

...the low and "mid-range" is bolstered... it is not working as hard as it used to. I never liked the RPM range I was experiencing for the "power" returned, and the higher-shrill tone of the bike as a result.

It now has a more "throaty" or "snorty" sound, there is clearly more air moving through the system (bigger gulps, I suppose)... Twisting the throttle immediately raises the front end -- it sits a bit -- growls, then hold-on tightly...

I took it out on the highway for only a 6-mile stretch, overtook a few semis, and wound it up to 80... then got off at the next exit. There is more confidence now in its muscle and brawn out there.

I don't how else to describe first impressions except with goofy adjectives and adverbs, but it is no doubt a more "spirited" bike with "grunt-like" torque.

I still have more work to do and a few more "beauty pictures" after the final work, but this project is soon over, and with plenty of time to spare for spring riding and summer delights after that.

p.s. no plug chops today... was having too much fun, but I do need to see how she's burning
p.p.s. if you want to see what I've put into the whole bike over the winter, refer back to my first post, page 1

 

Good job young man!

 

Maybe, maybe, 1/2 of this assertion is true...

 

Put another 50mi on yesterday -- Question? - Len? (anyone?, Buehler?) - Do these new "organic" brake pads I've put on the front produce MORE dust than the "older" ones?

Maybe it is just because I now stick my nose up close to the engine all the time having spent all darn winter rebuilding and polishing this hunk of metal, but there seems to be brake dust everywhere?

Thanks

--- Brake dust on everything ? (even noticed "it" on my left pant-leg yesterday) -- Gotta hit this with compressed air
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...

 

New brake pads (especially the organics) will tend to dust a bit when new. Break them in gently:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=765359

 

Did you use EBC's pads to go with the EBC rotors?

 

Fitz, yes, thanks and,

OK Len -- Thanks for the data... That explains that... I've been easy on them...

Just shot the bike with some compressed air after today's spin, particularly the cylinder head and rear assembly

 

OK, XJers -- an update regarding my tuning -- Ignorance was bliss till I finally got in several plug chops -- and -- I am running lean mid-range… I have completed several 5 - 5.5k chops and I am pulling border-line gray-white.

So, first thought, "let me get a little more fuel in the bowls…" -- So I took carbs off -- set floats up about 1mm -- quick level check (top of the spec range) -- carbs back on -- Ohhhh it's definitely "juicy" on the low end (yeh, yeah, no jokes please) -- well forget that for now let's see if we had any effect on mid-range -- so I double checked synch and reset mixture via color tune -- Then: Out for another set of chops… No good -- and all I've done is richen and slop up the low end with hesitation and spit getting out of the hole -- should’ve guessed this was not the right route… OK, Carbs off, levels back to mid-range of the 3mm -- reset mixture - and chop again -- still lean of course (at 5k).

So… I have a few options, and going up a size in the main jet is probably the right route -- I ordered a set of 4 116's (running 114s)… In the mean time (Len's got 'em in the mail today), I was thinking about ways to get the needle up a bit on these HSC32 Hitachis which do not have clips…

Note the needle size is Y-10

So, back under the tank and I get the hat's off. After some inspection I discover that a perfectly fitting, thin washer can be placed 'round the needle shaft and seated under the plastic retainer (of the needle) - this then all sits in the bottom of the piston… thereby raising the needle about .75mm (in this case).

Back out and chop again with needles raised -- some improvement but only slightly gray-brown now -- still too lean. Therefore, I'll put in the 116's when they get here in a few days and will try them with the needle still raised to start the new round of testing.

Further, just as a note on "tips and tricks" -- the use of the hex-head bolts on the hats and bowl-bottoms has REALLY paid off -- the hats are removable easily while still on the bike with the tank raised but not removed.. -- And the bowls come off quickly and without beggaring up those Japanese-size Phillips-head screws.
Here are a few pics of the needle operation:
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One other tip - I am running the JBM Industries diaphrams which DO NOT have a seating tab for correct piston orientation -- we all know the breather holes are engine-side, but when the carbs are on the bike and the tank is raised the hole is blind -- so I put a red dot between the breather holes on the top of the piston to show me the dead-front of the orientation...
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OK, now, if you've disassembled carbs this will make sense -- for the carbs bodies where the needle won't go into the emulsion tube (when the needle is attached to the piston -- you know how the needles tilt to the engine-side of the throat? - there is a tab in the bottom of the piston that causes this tilt -- well, if the needle is screwed into the piston, SOME of the needles simply don't "hit" the emulsion opening when you drop in the piston -- not a problem when the carbs are off because you can stick a finger in the air-box side of the throat and guide the needle in -- But hey we can't do that here -- INSTEAD drop in the piston in w/out the needle "screwed" into the piston, then drop the needle and the washer in - it will fall "perpendicularly" (carefully) and it quickly finds the emulsion tube hole -- THEN come in with the spring and the plastic retaining nut as seen here:
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If you're lean in MID range only it's not the mains. Unless you're on it hard I doubt it's the mains.

Go up to "Euro" spec on the pilots (talk to Len) and see where you're at.

 

Thanks Fitz chopped at 5000 and 5500 also went richer on pilot mixture to no avail pilot is 42 ... Whatsa Euro pilot?

I could try two shims under the needle "in the meantime"

 

From my knowledge the needle controls the mid range. Shimming the needle is fairley common practice to eliminate dead spots, or lean spots, I found from tuning 4-1's and pods.

 

Thanks! -- The "mid" IMHO is likely the confluence of pilot, needle and main... But the general recommendation seems to be to go after mid-range by needle changes -- coming up on the needle (as shown on last page) has helped but I need to do a few more chops...

I complicated things by changing the float levels to top-of-range... It really screwed up low end (not idle) but 2k to 5k acceleration was clearly too rich with burbling stumbling and worsening as the motor became hotter...

So I went back to mid range on the floats and that still wasn't enough... It appears my pilot was too rich. --- I.O.W., on the pilot, while I was still in the blue range, I was too close to yellow (in the "range" of "white to yellow"). I've now put the pilot between "yellow and white" (at about 2 1/2 turns out now), and the latest test drive Wednesdy night was MUCH improved (lower end).

In short, I am changing too many things and need to slow down...

So, I am at mid-range on pilot tune and floats, AND my needle is still raised by the shim washer I explained on the prior page.

I HAVE NOT changed the mains from 114 to 116 and will not do that until I can get back out and do a few more mid-range chops, and another "top-end" test (to the best of my ability while being safe). My preliminary conclusion to adjust mains up to 116 may not be correct.

Please note, I am not dissatisfied with the bike's performance. In fact my earlier post is still how I feel... It is better than new with just terriffic and scary pull mid-to-top range... I don't have numbers, but it is taking my breath away with how quick it is mid to top end.

So, more chops mid-range, a few more "feel" tests (I want to ensure there is no surging when coming quickly off the throttle at top-end), etc... And a final decison on whether or not to try the 116's that are in the mail and may arrive today.

Stay tuned, I am dialing it in.

Thanks all

p.s. pilot is 42

 

What else can one do on a snowy day in PA -- no riding -- no tuning -- gives me time to finish up "the rear end" of the bike -- new shocks are on, new LIPO battery is in (LIPO battery weighs in at 2lbs)... The lead I removed tipped the scales near 10lbs)... finished grab bar... next: brakes and fuz box.

I'll post a pic of the rear later...

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p.s. between the lipo battery and the ebc rotor, (and taking out the security chain) I've taken over 10lbs off of the bike... NOW, if the rider could just shed 10lbs!!
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