1982 XJ550 Maxim rebuild

Thanks man

 

Did you ask Chacal?
He has the correct colors for everything. He also has reproduction emblems that are an exact match to the OEM.

On the oil filter cover. It makes some difference in cooling to not have it, but it's not so difficult to fit the oil cooler that the Yamaha put on all of the XJ's that they made for the rest of the world.
One of my backburner projects is to machine the oil filter cover so it serves as a cap for the spin-on filter. I'll probably never get to it though; too many other projects that are of higher priority.

 

I will def need repro tank badges once the tank is done. The originals are split and scarred. The original yics tags are stamped copper. They will outlast my paint job. If I lose one due to glue failure it is good to know where to get a repro. Do you know what the repro ones are made of?

I am game for a solidworks project. I can draw it up, print it in PLA and have them CNC'd from 6061 at a company I use in China. A spin-on adapter with an external threaded seal flange is easy enough. Getting a bulk pre-order to pay for the production run is always the problem.

 

No CNC here. Just an amateur with an old lathe and some free time

Covering the production costs is always the tricky part, which is why I pay myself in beer.

I think all Chacal has in the way of tank badges are a stash of NOS stuff. He'd be the one to say what they repops are made of (should be in his catalog, he's very transparent about that stuff).

 

Hey, I am always game to make a few bucks off a side project. I will toss a few ideas around. Is the filter cover basr and filter tube the same size on the XJ engines?

 

Cylinder bores have been honed. #4 seems to have discoloration above and below the ring pack area from it sitting a long time. Not sure why the others are not stained. Rings feel and look good. Removed them and will be re-using them. The pistons have carbon and staining but look fine as well. I'll clean them up best I can and reinstall with the same wrist pins and new clips. All of the pins were really tight and not easy to remove. The rod end bearing surfaces look OK. I'd love to rip the whole case apart and have new rods WPC treated with the crank but I have to remember this WAS a budget rebuild. The cylinder block got a good cleaning and buffing too, more pics soon.

 

I like shiny new stuff even if it is actually 35 years old.


The 4" wheel on my drill press makes quick work of cleaning metal. Silver is curing. Clear coat tomorrow and it will get a new clutch rod seal and e-clip for outside. Inside parts are like new. I did not even attempt to remove the sight glass. Bad things can and would happen with my luck.




Um, eww? Good thing I disassembled the starter for paint. It needs a major cleaning and new seals.

 

Not exactly rebuild work, but here's what I've drawn up so far for a spin-on filter adapter with decor cap.
I'm going to create a screw-on decor cap using hex head cap screws but not sure about design yet. I'll try to pick a generic 4-screw pattern. The stock housing is 100mm so it makes the symmetry nice in solid editing.
I'm using an Amsoil EA15K13 4-cylinder skinny filter for the fitment test. Both it and the bike use M20x1.5 filter threading so it's easy to work with. It will even fit inside the stock housing.

 

Not sure about the hand grip design yet, but the assembly is done. I may try printing a set this weekend.

 

you sure you don't want to buy a real adaptor?

 

Where's the fun in that??

 

Just for clarity I won't be sticking a plastic oil filter adapter on the engine. It's a prototype for thread and o-ring fitment only. It won't be machined until after the bike is done and I have the cash for it.

 

Starter housing has been painted, all the bits cleaned and checked. Looks like it needs a grease seal, new o-rings everywhere and some grease to replace the stuff from 1982. I will probably use black moly instead of the red axle high temp I use since this sits and needs to move around when it runs. The insulation stickers on the rear cover look like they need some glue. One came off during degreasing. I may replace the case bolts since I had to use pliers to pop them loose. Hex cap screws would be better due to the length of the bolt.

 

+1 on using moly grease. The load on the gear faces is pretty high.

 

Rear tire was a beast to remove. Rear rim has been sprayed with black. After it cures I will hand buff the outer rim and then clear coat it all. I may go ahead and replace the bearings. These are smooth but a tad tight.




The Coke machine behind there was another 1980's project. It keeps the cans super cold and the kids from drinking all my soda.

 

Get a needle for your grease gun and slide it under the bearing shields. Pump a bit of new grease in. See if the bearings feel better.
Likely that the grease is just hardened a bit and that the bearings are fine.

 

True, all of the grease points have had chunky monkey in them. I imagine these are no different. I can always pull them later if they roar. Yay, more tool to lose.

 

Speaking of losing, I managed to lose the piston from the tensioner. Got an ugly, cheap, used one off ebay for internal parts. Still waiting on the parts and tank from SnoSheriff. Post office issues, hopefully the tank did not disappear.

 

The main parts are out for delivery today. \o/ Still waiting to see the gas tank show up at the DCU in Fayetteville.