1982 XJ650RJ Seca Cylinder Base Gasket/Piston Ring job

No you have one in each bearing and fit them so they bridge the cases.

The shim on the right looks like it fits behind the bevel gear for the drive shaft.

 

Thanks! I didn't know that I should swing it up to align the lower case half, makes sense though! I appreciate the confirmation.

 

Getting ready to put the cases back together. Do I loctite the bolts? Red or blue?

 

No loctite just torque them to spec.

 

I have Loctite 515 ready to go, but it looks like I need to get Loctite Klean ‘n Prime. Is that necessary??

 

Crossposted to the FB groups.

Yamaha XJ650RJ (Seca)

Doh! I’ve spent the entire riding season rebuilding my engine (it’s hard to find time) and I forgot to order these oil seals (between the cylinders and the head). I really want to get on the road. They seem pliable and not torn. On the other hand I’d hate to plop down another $90 for a head gasket if the seals leak. Haynes manual says, in bold, put in new o rings, but they are seals, not o rings. I’m sure Len could get them to me by the end of the week, but I really wanted to get it in the bike by then.

Any thoughts on how critical these seals are? I think I know the answer but what do you think?

 

Ok. I’ve come to my senses and realized it makes no sense to not put new ones in.

 

So I’m thinking this tachometer drive gear should spin freely….

 

Yes, it should.

 

Reinstalling the engine and reconnecting stuff like foot pegs. This does not seem right as the kickstand won’t allow the peg to swivel back. Did I align the peg incorrectly? It lines up with the RH one.

 

Now that I look at the kick stand, it looks like maybe the kickstand lever is bent.

 

It could be the problem, should stick out more when up.

 

All together, and following the recommended break in process as posted by, I believe, Chacal. I have done the initial 15 minute idle, and the first two 15 minute rides with no lugging of the engine. One more 15 minute ride and change the oil and filter.

Cylinder #4 is running about 100 degrees cooler than the other three, per my meat thermometer (I washed it). Plugs 1 & 4 were clean. Plugs 2&3 had black soot. On ride 2 I switched the #1 and #4 plug wires, and the #3 and #4 plugs, and the problem stayed on #4, so not an ignition issue.

Carb # 2 is leaking out the boot to airbox, does not appear to be getting down to the crankcase per oil level and smell. Turned off petcock immediately and tapped the bowl and it stopped leaking. Must have dried out the needle valve tips while sitting in a box all summer.

Also getting some manifold smoke but I am terrified of breaking an exhaust stud. I guess I will loosen the exhaust mounts and joints and push the headers on more tightly and torque them down a little tighter.

I am guessing I have a carb problem leading to the cold cylinder, per the leak and the preponderance of discussion and wisdom on cold cylinders here on the forum. Should I do my next 15 minute ride tomorrow and change the oil, or should I really wait to address the fueling issue first? I have my fuel rail D rings and throttle shaft seals ready to go, thanks to Chacal.