1982 XJ750 Maxim Tracker O.E.M. +

Fresh Aftermarket parts:

Emgo Headlight mounts
Metal valve stems
UNI crank case breather filter (UNI foam pods to match soon)

 

YICS block off tuning tool via XJ4ever.com, very nice piece.

 

And last, but not least...



My custom Kerker knock off...it started its life as a baffled MAC (puke for quality; when my tig skills improve, i'll try and make a custom stainless) but decided to cut that out, install a perforated sheet metal tube w/ 4 stroke packing. Regretfully, I shortened it and ended up not liking it so I'm probably just going to buy the R6 Akrapovic GP slip-on as I had originally planned. And also, on a test ride it fell off, bummer dude.

 

Testing VHT engine paint on my valve cover...the color is Flat Black Engine Enamel rated @ 500 degrees fahrenheit. I previously used Dupl-Color Satin Black high temp enamel; very nice finish but didn't use the primer and had some areas where it flaked a little. For prep I used Aircraft striper to remove old paint, then soda blasted it. Compressed air and alcohol sprayed on to clean off residue, then final alcohol wipe down.



Next is the VHT Engine Enamel primer, first 2 coats...



Now paint, which I did 4 passes; 2 pass over everything with the second coat concentrating on creating even finish, nice quick, almost full bursts out of the aerosol from at least 12" but no more then 14". Small passes with that distance worked best for me. After letting those coats dry, paint and primer was removed with 320 sand paper for the raised area on top of the cover. Once all paint is removed, alcohol rinse and wipe down with blue tape neatly applied with almost no overhang on the raised areas. I hit the outside edges withe the sander while making the 90 turn down, so these two more coats will cover that all up. Again, concentrating on light areas with no glossy or runny areas. The last 2 coats was really 2 light coats, then 10 minutes, then two more light coats.

 

Got some more engine work done: Started soda blasting prep on the motor, taped off cylinders and holes.



Drilled and tapped 3 seized intake boot holes for new aluminum slugs that were threaded on the lathe. Red loktite on all three slugs made then tightened in all the way. Once the loktite is dry, I'll put it in the mill and machine the slugs down to face the cylinder head.

 

Everything looks good! I really like that tank choice.

Regarding your new front brake setup: Did you use stock length braided lines, or are they a custom length? I'm doing my brakes all around this winter and I like the idea of that GSXR MC/Lever setup; mine's in bad shape.

 

Thanks, everything is slowly starting to come together once the head repair is complete (I'll have updates on that tonight)...I'm using stock size, XJ650 Goodrich steel braided lines; three hoses and using the stock junction box. They feel very firm, all though, I was looking here on XJ4ever and saw they now sell aftermarket caliper seals that are the correct fit for mine so I'm going to swap that out soon to make sure its close to perfect.

 

So all should be good, just need to reassemble once all my gaskets and I-rings come in for the top end. May re-ring just because I'm down there...Anyhoo, milled down the 3 plugs but couldn't go all the way due to the cylinder head intake face being at almost a 4-5 degree angle. So we got it really close then hand filled VERY slowly and carefully. Got it almost flat then made my drill marks by installing an intake boot on the head and punch marked the center of drill hole. Drilled out with 5mm drill bit, tapped @ M6x1. Measured left and right and 90 degrees below of the said holes to make sure they were even lengths on all three points insuring as close to center as poss. Still nervous but it should be good once the carbs go on...



After I tapped all of them, I sanded the faces berry carefully with 1000 on a block

 

Chased all 8 holes with the tap with grease, cleaning the dirty grease off each hole and re-greasing.

 

nice work. did you consider putting ss studs in those holes, then that will never happen again

 

No, it would have been too difficult for what it was. The aluminum was much easier to work with as I had to drill the holes by hand...plus cause it was only 3. A little anti seize on all the bolts and it should be good to go.

 

what i was trying to say was, make the intake side like the exhaust side

 

Ohhhh...I didn't and that's a great idea! Thanks for the tip... Something like this but shorter.

 

when you test fit the manifolds to the head, check for a lip where they meet. i smoothed mine out with a dremel tool. that square edge just didn't seem like it should be there

 

Got one round of aircraft paint stripper on the frame, nasty stuff...re welded the tank mounts and seat mounts a little while ago. Hopefully will have the frame painted next week.

 

Just finished sandblasting the frame...off to buy some etching primer

 

So I was looking at the step you're talking about (first noticed it when I was marking the holes I needed to drill). It looks like the head has a bevel on the inside, where the intake boot mounts causing a step...that lip? Did you Dremel the inner edge the make it smoother and more curved? Did you notice a difference in power and/or feel?

 

the hole in my manifold was smaller than the port in the head. so i took some rubber off the manifold.

couldn't really say if it made any difference but it gives me that warm fuzzy feeling sometimes

 

First coat of primer, exactly one can! Prep cleaned frame with Compressed air and two wipe downs with Acetone.







Cheers!

 

Hey guys...here is a sneak peak of my frame color.

As mentioned above, prep steps:
1) Sandblast
2) Blow off w/ air then Acetone wipe down
3) Rustolium Self etching primer
4) Rustolium Automtive Black semi-gloss