1983 XJ650 Maxim bringing back to life

Shims done
Colortune and re synch carbs done.
Put tank back on, could not fit a filter unless I ran the tube off to the right then back to the left. Had I known I likely would have been better off putting the Fuel inlet between carb 3/4 instead of stock position of 1/2.
Put new petcock in and tank on bike.
Running and idling good now.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7KQrDTa23aQ

 

Fuel T belongs between 1-2.

glad you got it running, but it still sounds like there is a lope to the idle.

 

If you mean the moving up and down in RPM at a rate of about 1 cycle a second, yes, what do you think is the cause of that?

 

Not synced right yet

 

Or rich.

 

I'll have to double check Synchro. I color tuned it about 1/4 in from turning blue to yellow.

 

You want adjust all four individually to be “Bunsen-burner” blue.
Balance/sync screws are the vertical ones on the butterfly shafts between 1-2, 3-4, and 2-3.

sync 3-4 with screw between 3-4, and 1-2 with the screw between 1-2, then sync 1/2 with 3/4 using the screw between 2-3.

 

New plugs (only found resistive) and leaned out 2 carbs, re sync and lope is gone.
Its cold up here so I'll likely need to adjust in the spring I guess.

 

Yaaaay

 

So, buddy (former Police officer that spent time as a Motorcycle officer) took it out of the neighborhood for a ride. Here were the take aways:
Speedometer was humming. Did not hum when he left but was humming when he came back. When I rode it myself to the top of the street and back it would humm only in motion and even at low speeds.
I live at the end of the court and did some circles and started to work on figure 8's (I'm rusty and don't even know what I used to be able to do in HS and college cause HS riding was a little Honda SL70 dirt bike and college was a 250 street bike I think.

For the speedo, I started by searching for threads here:
Mine sounds just like the video in the first thread
https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/noise-and-vibration-while-riding.130364/#post-663911
https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/speedometer-humming-needle-jumping-and-then-died.126154/
Any other suggestions on the Spedo Humm?

He got it up to 70mph and in 5th gear, as he was entering the neighborhood after the about 10 minute ride, it was beginning to starve for fuel.
I'll have to look at the petcock as that is my first suspicion. Petcock is new and same model that was on the bike but not original part. I had it in reserve. I am going to have to do some garage testing of the petcock.
Suggestions on petcock/fuel flow testing I can do that does not initially involve riding the bike (Cold here and I still am on a learners permit)

He felt that it rode smoothly. He lent me a jack to get the front wheel up and when we were looking to see how the bearings were, we noticed that it looked like the front brakes were tight. I am already next going to be working on a caliper rebuild and put new stainless brake lines in but wanted to figure out what I should be looking at for the brakes as is. I'd like to see what would make the brakes so tight. Suggestions on tight brakes?

Its about 40F outside right now.

 

Speedo - “scream of death” is often a cable needing lube. But, it COULD be the speedo head. Nice thing is, that it is serviceable.
-Remove the cluster
-remove the back
-remove the two screws for the four center light cluster
-remove the screws holding the speedo unit to the front
-Remove the two screws at the back to remove the head
- Lube it with 3/1 oil or sewing machine oil
-reassemble.

petcock-
If you’re having troubles, try switching to PRI and see what happens when you’re on the free-flow side.
If the problems go away, that helps you narrow it down.
Sometimes the RES side can get clogged a bit though.

tight brakes
- check to see if the return hole in the bottom of the petcock reservoir is open
- check to make sure the caliper pivot bolt is not over tightened. The caliper needs to be able to adjust.
-pull the caliper off and see if the piston retracts easily with a c-clamp
-check to make sure your pads aren’t worn out (yes they naturally are angled.....that’s CORRECT for a 650 maxim.

 

One thing that had me scratching my head a bit was the tendency to act fuel starved on half a tank. Fine above that, but as soon as the level dropped to halfway, it would get persnickety.
Turned out the sieve sleeve over the intake pipes on the petcock was gummed up. On a full tank there was enough flow, but when it got lower the fuel permeating the sieve wasn't enough.
A replacement sleeve from a cheapy Chinese petcock was perfect fit.

 

thx for the help.

Is there a way to isolate between the cable and the speedo? I was also thinking that are the cables not inexpensive and should I just change it while I'm doing the calipers?
I do have to get to the 4 light cluster cause the high beam bulb is not turning on with the high beams.
I'll check the brakes, I think the pads are pretty far down anyway, but would like to be able to determine what is going on with what exists even though I'll be rebuilding it all.

 

Well, lube the cable and see if the scream goes away. If not, lube the head. See if it goes away. If not, get a new cable. See if it goes away, if not, get a new speedo. Process of elimination.

 

speedo cable piece of cake to remove. Heated up aluminum at wheel before loosening the bolt for the cable hold down. The nut at the top at the speedo was not tight at all and did not need more than light finger pressure to spin it off. hmmm.
I'm off for next two weeks only having to check office emails a couple times a day (good timing for mental breaks with the bike).
So cleaning the cable and wire, then will reinstall and ride it up in the court. I'm only on a learners permit right now but will just do some practice in the end of the court. Since friend said that humm started at the end of the ride, this may or may not be a valid test if it goes away. I should have time to look at lubing the head anyway.
3 in 1 oil on the tube and the wire?

 

a section of the cable had some heat shrink on it, but below that heat shrink there was some chafing.

 

I think engine oil is recommended for speedo cables. The chafing is from some kind of wear on the outside. It should not affect the cable inside but may let water/moisture in. May be a replacement is in the future anyway but maybe lubricating the cable might get rid of the hum in the meantime.

 

That could be a good clue..... that will let a lot of water into the cable and cause the twisted steel strands to rust up. From that point, they start to to break and fray, etc..... eventually The Who cable breaks.

 

So, cleaned and lubed the speedo cable. I had 3in1 so used that for now, its so easy to pull off, I can re lube it.
Started it up and it seemed like it was starving for fuel. Much like yesterday at the end of the ride. I left it on prime.
After I let it warm up, It was still starving and acting like it was running on 3 cylinders. Hooked up a tube and looked at the float levels. I was on somewhat level ground but sloping towards rear tire. Float on carb 4 was noticably lower than the others.
Was about to give up, then put in more gas into tank, started it up, and after a little while it sounded good. OK, so spent 15 mins doing figure slow speed figure 8's at the end of the court. No Speedo humm to be heard. Decided to head to top of street and it was bogging down.
Rode to the driveway. Carb 4 was low again.
So, Decided to do a test on carb 1 to test fuel flow on prime.
verified set petcock to PRIME
Viewed and took picture of float bowl 1 level.
Set petcock to RES (engine is off)
Drained float bowl 1.
Set petcock to PRIME
float bowl filled VERY SLOWLY and did not even get to its previous level. Even after minutes, it was still not more than

Something going on with that petcock or something about the way I'm doing the fuel lines?
Would air trapped in the line from the petcock to the carb do this?

Attached pics so you can see the relative difference in float level after draining and trying to refill.
IMages are out of order so:
IMG_4074 is before the fill test
IMG_4075 is after the fill test

 

I think I'm experiencing 80% of EVERYTHING I've read here on the forum so far.
So, pulled tank, put a line up to the petcock output and then let it run on both PRI, ON and RES. Had a line on the vac input and just lightly sucked on it to get it to flow.
IT was flowing pretty well, more than well enough.
The 7mm black hose for the fuel line I felt came off to easy after pulling the clamps off. I have a clear fuel line that you have to warm up the line to slip it on. I put that on.
Put the tank on and set to prime. I could easily see air trapped between petcock and carb input. Lifting the tank and shaking the line or tapping on the carbs did not let it flow.
So, I did something I read here before. I opened up the tank and then blew into it. All the air purged out and the fuel started to flow. Checked the bowl levels with the tube and sure enough. looked great.
Started it up, ran fine. Spent 10 mins doing figure 8's to the point I was able to cut the size down to half. Then ran up the street. Engine ran great, but once I got over 10mph, the speedo scream of death came back.
So, I'll be pulling the instrument cluster apart to do what hogfiddles says. Good part is that my carb rebuild was not the issue (I think?).

 

Take the cable out of the housing, dry it with a rag, lay it on newspaper and soak with heavier oil, motor oil. 3 in 1 oil would be too thin. Eliminate that possibility before tearing into speedo.

 

So, I started pulling the instrument cluster out before seeing your post Huntchuks, I needed to get to the High Beam bulb anyway.
First thing, the high beam bulb was fine. I even put 12V at the 2 pins of the 9 pin connector. Either it was making a bad connection or I have something else not turning that bulb on.
BTW, you have to pull the bulb out from the back, pulling on the rubber to get it out if anyone else needs to get to it.
So, one more step to get the speedo out of the housing, the odometer reset knob. Just turn it clockwise (righty-tighty) cause its reverse threaded.
Secured speedo so it would not flip over or otherwise damage the needle. Hooked up the speedo cable and locked in my drill and set drill to high speed. run it full speed and I was able to simulate about 40-45mph
Humm started at about 20mph. Pulled it, cleaned it some with a plastic pick and nylon brush then added the 3in1 oil. 45mph and no scream of death.
Will re-assemble tonight and try the bike in the morning. We will see if this holds.
I'll go ahead and motor oil the speedo cable too.

Thx all.

 

Pics for posterity. Let me know if the before and after photos of the pinion gear is satisfactory.

 

oiled speedo cable with Mobil motor oil I had and put it all back together. Tested all the lights and indicators before putting headlight back in. Tach did not work so had to unplug and push in again. I think a vinegar dip is in my future for those connectors in there. Looks like the high beam light might have worked the whole time, When I had it disassembled, I noticed the color filter on the high beams is less translucent, So viewing it in the daylight hid that it worked. Makes sense as it would be used at night.
Had bike out in the court working on my slow turns and stopping. Rode it up to 40mph and NO SCREAM OF DEATH. Time will tell but thanks all again.

Engine ran fine the whole time but speedo shows I only drove it a mile. Left it on RES this time. I'll leave it there for now.
With nasty cold weather coming, going to start the Caliper/MC rebuilds. I had drained most of the MC, picked at the 2 holes in the MC, then filled in some new Dot3 and then tested a vacuum bleeder buddy gave me that hooks up to compressed air. Did not help the brakes. looked underneath and the pin that runs across the 2 brakes was pretty corroded. Tapped the brake pads apart a bit and it freed up the wheel some but not as much as what is needed. All that should clear up with rebuild.

One more thing I did this morning. I half arse polished the Brake MC window just to see if the effort was worth it. Looks like it is. Progressive sand paper, then plastic polish. I did not really step the sand paper well, so when I have the MC off to rebuild, I'll polish it better.

 

You can also get a replacement MC window kit from Len

 

Pulled apart the caliper. Piston is pitted.
Can I sand this down and polish smooth or time for a new piston?

 

Your life depends on it......your choice. just sayin’——

dfox

 

duely notied. Just ordered one from Len.

 

Some people like to know how fast their bike can go.
I like to know how fast mine can STOP.

 

Caliper was nasty. I"ve done a lot of car brakes but nothing more than 10 years old at the time of the brakes/rotors.
I rebuilt the Master Cylinder. De rusted the pin for the brake pads.
Will mount the MC and new SS brake lines tomorrow. I"ll have to move to the rear brakes while waiting for the Caliper Piston.

So, before popping the piston out, I was curious how well this vacuum bleeder would work to pull an air bubble out. Before draining the brake fluid, I removed fluid from MC, then pumped some. Then added brake fluid. Brake was very weeak. THen ran the vacuum bleeder as I added more brake fluid, then tested the brakes when the fluid coming out of the bleeder was clear (indicating new fluid hit the exit. Worked great. I however will use the syringe method to add the fluid back in when ready.

 

So, I was thinking as I was looking at the caliper cause I was having trouble understanding how this was one piece instead of 2 with pins to allow it to float like the cars I have done. Then I realized that this caliper pivots on the single mounting bolt.
Thus the angled pad wear. Looking back at Hog fiddles post about my brakes not releasing, I can say the mounting bolt was for sure too tight. Looking at videos of brake jobs for the xj650 or virago which has the same pivoting brakes, I don't see 2 things.
Application of brake grease to the inside of the mounting bolt sleeve, rubber o ring that the caliper pivots on, or where the brake pads slide along the spring or other parts. Car brake jobs I have always been told to grease the movement points. In addition, with the pivoting caliper, I expect a light torque spec for the main bolt, then holding that, tightening the top nut to keep the bolt from moving. Any suggestions?

 

Well, was given a Caliper rebuild kit but it is for a smaller piston (XS650?). Will have to continue front caliper rebuild when parts come in. Will have to order on Monday.
I did mount the Galfer stainless brake lines after finishing the MC rebuild.
Today after done with Xmas with the family and everyone taking naps (especially my wife!) I went over to garage and pulled the rear tire off to start the Rear brake.
Everything came apart easy, like really easy. Just a few love taps from a hard rubber mallet to get the axle out. Previous owner had put new tires on by a local dealer back in 2021. Bike only has about 250 miles on it since then.
I think it was in good shape already, rear shoes were only worn down about .5mm from the new pads. I cleaned up the shoe housing installed new shoes. Will finish the rear tomorrow.
As mentioned above, the work is in the caliper cause that piston is pitted bad. I took a look in a magnifying glass and the pitting was pretty deep.

 

Rear brakes done, awaiting correct parts for caliper rebuild.
I have been having issues with starter. I'll press the button and it may or may not crank. Wiggle or press the button and it seems to start.
Not certain if its the wiggle or just pressing and holding longer cause a few mornings (I have been starting it every morning and running a few minutes to test), I just pressed it and held the same pressure then it eventually started.
I also previously noticed that if I had stopped it, and then pushed the start button there was a delay. Not certain if a dirty start button or a solenoid, I just installed a new solenoid today.
I also cleaned the contacts on the power bar from the + of the battery to the solenoid. For grins, I put a volt meter after unplugging the solenoid to the solenoid coil.
Turning on ignition switch, it went from 0V to .40V. Then pushing the start button it went to 11.4V (battery is at 12.5V). So an entire 1V drop across all the relays and connectors makes me think something else needs to be cleaned (or is that normal?)
After cleaning the coil plug on the harness end, the ring terminals to the solenoid, it was still about 11.4V. 3 times I started it cranked w/o delay. So I'll keep an eye on this and if it delays again, I guess I would have to take apart the right grip assembly and try to clean the start button contacts?

Thx all.

 

Slow response to the start button is also an indicator of a weak battery... I’d do a load test and see what you get, too.

 

what kind of load test? I can measure the voltage during a start but the digital meter may not respond quick enough.
I have a little hand held battery tester that I can use, not sure if it does much of a load. It may just do an internal resistance measurement. That is usually a good indicator of how a voltage will drop under load.
Its a new battery.

 

New doesn’t always mean “good”

 

Any of the big auto parts stores will put your battery on a load tester for free if you carry it in. A clamp on machine that simulates the load a starter activating. It will monitor the voltage under load and the cold cranking amps available.
Have you checked the condition of your starter? The brushes are a wear item and are semi easily replaced.

 

Looks like my battery tester is where I keep the boat, so I will test the battery when I get that back next week. I don't think the battery is bad but I'll test it nonetheless.
Last night and this morning it is starting right when I touch the button without any delay. I do have a starter rebuild kit and that is something I plan to do in the coming weeks.
Tracking shows the caliper rebuild kit from xj4ever is out for delivery so I should be able to get to that tonight and be ready for a road test friday morning.

 

Got in wrong seal kit but was at Yamaha dealer today and low and behold they had a K&L kit in stock so took it home and finished the brakes.
Friend loaned me a vacuum bleeder that hooks up to a compressor. Wow, did that thing work and quick. It has some momentum to it so you have run it then pour more fluid into the Master cylinder or it will suck air if your not careful.
I made sure the caliper bolt on this pivoting caliper was not too tight but the top locking nut was tight like its supposed to. Raised the front wheel so I can see that the brakes worked and released. Tested in the driveway.
Just for grins, I left the MC cover off and tied the brake pressed just to bleed out any left over air overnight in the lines that might be there but don't expect there is any.
Going to try to set (break in) the brake pads Saturday morning.

 

Leaving the brake fluid exposed to the air will let it attract moisture. The cover has built in area that allow air to escape even when the cover in on the MC.

Great job on the bleeding and changing out the fluid. Good maint practice and it will keep you safe going down the road.

 

Rode the XJ today about 14 miles. This was my first time on the road in nearly 30 years. Brake job turned out good. Did a Brake Break in. Tested stopping power of the brakes after letting them cool. All was great. Felt good. Then we left the neighborhood. My buddy is a former Motorcycle cop and a very safe rider. We stopped at the turn around point and talked a bit, then headed back.
Half way back I could feel the bike losing power again. Just like when my friend rode it. As we arrived at the house, I was going to work on some slow speed drills and I could feel it was really bad. pulled in the driveway and while just starting to idle, it died.
I quickly pulled out a tube and spot checked the float levels. I know where they should be and #2 and #4 were about half full. I left the tube on #2 and it took 30 minutes to fill back up.
I then checked all of them by draining them, then watching how fast they would fill back up. #3 filled up withing a few seconds. All the others were noticeably slower with #2 and #4 taking WAY too long.

I pulled the carb assembly and hooked it up on the bench to a test tank. Draining them and filling back up was hit and miss, Did it 4 times and always it filled up REALLY slow. Floats are were at 3mm from the top of the bowl once they eventually filled up.
I pulled the bowls off and did some changes to a more stock looking mesh screen I had from a rebuild kit and used different needles than what was in it from the kit I had used. The Needles looked like they were sticking and the other ones I could see were being pulled by the float better to open. I could go further into detail about what I saw and why I changed things out but I'm going to wait until I know this fixed my issue.
Had to reset the floats because of the different parts and made sure floats were not bent up. 17.5mm yeilded nearly perfect 3mm wet level from top of bowls.
Filled and drained on the test bench twice and both times, the bowls filled up within seconds.
Will put back together and I guess I'll have to synchro again.

 

Bad Plug after oil change!

Here is a weird one. Put carbs back in on Monday, got it running and idled good, revv'd up fine. And then Tuesday my filter came in. Did oil change Put in the oil, started it up to get the oil moving. Idled fine. Shut down, let oil settle, then added more to get 75% on the glass window.
While idling, it started to sound like crap. Really confused about how an oil change would mess things, up started to worry that I did something wrong with the filter (I followed the how to thread). Stopped cause it was late.
This morning started it up and after giving it some throttle realized "I'm running on 3 cylinders!". Checked exhaust pipes, yup, #3 is cold. Ran it some more and did not magically fix itself.
Checked #3 with a spark tester pen and it was lighting up.
Pulled plug, checked compression, yup, compression is there
Checked carb bowl, yup, has fuel.
So, I put in another plug, BAM, started running.

All the plugs were replaced a week or so ago. Original plugs I pulled were BP7ES NGK plugs. Local shop only had 3 of them, so I found 4 Resistive type BPR7ES and that is what I had in it. Plug I put in this morning was one of the new non resisitve plugs.
Ran it for a few minutes, went in side to eat breakfast, came out and then measured 5K from Top to the tip of the plug. infinite from top to threads. Hmm, I thought that was good? then had to head into work.

I will say this, my idle mixture screws are STILL RICH. I definitely need to re adjust those. Plugs are pretty black.
Is there such a thing as an intermittent plug? Would carbon fowling make a plug not spark at all?
Since this bike has nearly zero storage, I got in a tool back for my front, I guess a spare plug and tool is going in there.

Suggestions?

Thx

 

Have you tried twisting the plug cap on the coil wire or even better remove it and see if there is any corrosion on the wire? Can always cut it back 1/8 of an inch and put the plug cap back on.

 

I have not. That is something I have been curious on how to do (rework an end cap) and will do some research on it. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

It is a matter of a contact issue from the wire to the cap. Good idea to trim but not too much. Get the wire too short and you could have an issue reaching the plug.

 

So, when I replaced the plugs, I had to unscrew the top metal nub on the spark plug. Got me wondering if there are different types of plug caps out there and if there are instructions on what to do to do what you folks are suggesting?
I don't want to look at the wrong video.
Thx for any help.

Edit (Xj4ever post) , this answered some of my questions:
https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/plug-caps.33166/

 

reading the link in above post I made, I pulled all the restive plugs out. I only had 2 new and cleaned up 2 of the old till I can get more non restive plugs.
I could not figure out how to pull the caps off the spark plug wires. did not look intuitive so need to research (or if anyone knows where to look ,
The bad plug measured 5.1K, the other plugs measured 4.5K
With temps in the 60's I color tuned the idle mixture screw again. Every carb was in the yellow and I moved them all in 1/2 turn.
In the spring, I may have to revisit things.
I think I may be done with engine/carb work for now and can spend some time with beautification of the engine caps. I believe to remove the cover at the gear shift I have to pull the oil out? I know I have to for the clutch plate.
As I mentioned, I had not rode a bike in 30+ years and I got this on a whim to get back into riding. I rode dirt bikes in HS and borrowed a bike in HS and college. I'm 57 next month and I don't have all that many more years to ride. Like many people Covid got me thinking about bucket list and early retirement.
I'm an Electrical Engineer but like hobbies that are more mechanical and getting my fingers dirty. I like the challenge of fixing things and bringing old things back to life (something not working right, wife want to buy another, I want to see if I can fix it).
I have LOTS of other hobbies for when I retire (Fishing, Shooting RC airplanes), so I can add another one to the list to occupy my time when I'm not taking care of people or the house

List of things I've done to bike so far:

• Carb rebuild (Church of clean) including throttle shaft seals, New Jets to bring back to factory spec, bowl level etc.
• Replaced fuse block with blade type
• Historic tags for MD (no inspection required)
  
• New Battery (done by friend I got bike from)
• New air filter (done by friend I got bike from)
  
• Replaced petcock (went from a vacuum to a non vacuum manual one while troubleshooting a flow issue)
  
• Replaced fuel line
  
• Tank De rustify (Vinegar)
• Shim gaps within spec (added 1 shim, removed 1, swapped/moved 4)
• Synchro and Color tuned (multiple times and I'm going to do it again in the spring)
  
• Tire pressure (Tires are 2020 manufacture and tread good)
• Fork Pressure set to 11psi
• Added Engine guard
• Fixed Speedo "Scream of death", Lubed speedo cable with engine oil
• Front Caliper & Master Cylinder rebuild, new pads
• New SS brake lines
• Rear Brakes inspected good but replaced anyway
• 2 out of 4 new plugs (will be 4 out of 4 soon)
• Starter Solenoid.
• Removed some rust spots on the chrome (CLR/Aluminum foil scrape method)
• cleaned up scrapes on pick up coil side plate (looks like bike layed down at some point)
• Oil and filter change (added washer between spring and filter)
• Added Tool Bag to front just under headlight
• Cleaned key/guts of tank gas cap
• Cleaned key/mechanism of Seat Lock

List of things I am looking to do still:

• Measure coil resistance
• rework spark plug cap to wire connection?
  
• clean up engine cover plates
• clean up seat aluminum bar thing (Already hit it with 120, 320 grit, need to keep going)
• Adjust shocks down (they are at stiffest setting right now, tried to move the ring and gave up for now).
• Rebuild starter (I have a kit)
• Clean up the starter button and kill switch contacts)
• Clean up the Horn button contacts
• I have a 2nd set of carbs I got at a great price I'm in the middle of rebuilding.
  
• I have a 2nd front caliper I got at a great price. I'll pull it apart and look to see if its a candidate to rebuild or I wasted my $
• Put the vacuum Petcock back in so long as my flow issue seems to be resolved.
• Put in an inline rock filter. I've tested flow and it looks good, worried about how air can get trapped with a horizontally mounted filter.

Parts I have that did not use because I did see the need after digging into it

• Front wheel bearings
• Rear wheel bearings

 

Pulling the plug caps means unscrewing them, not actually pulling them off. I too like fishing but shooting RC airplanes sounds like a lot of fun (full choke?).

 

Comma can mean everything
12 years ago, we entertained a local chapter of Wounded Warriors and yup, were shooting RC airplanes. most shots went through the foam but they eventually took it out (when we stopped filming of course)

There is (or used to be) a Machine gun event in the southwest where at some point, they flew several foam RC airplanes in a valley and shot at them with live ammo Machine guns

 

Couple things to knock off my list but I have not yet changed the plug caps as I was able to get more new plugs locally.
I did adjust the shocks to the #3 setting (was all the way at the heaviest #5 position)
I"m done rebuilding the 2nd set of carbs. this one had serviced/replaced diaphrams I did not like so I put in a new set of 4.
I did install a filter that I was happy with. I wanted one small enough to fit so that it was vertical and not allow air bubbles to stay in the filter.
I also wanted one that was easy to inspect each time I rode it.
I tested the fuel flow of this one and I'm happy with it.
Just had to pop off the end intake boot to fit this in.
Sidelined last 3 weeks due to back problems I took a short ride today on it. Rare weather in the 50's today here in Maryland