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1983 XJ750 Maxim Build (Updates and Questions)

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by XJ750DB, Dec 16, 2017.

  1. XJ750DB

    XJ750DB Member

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    Recently I picked up a 1983 XJ750 Maxim with 33xxx miles on it with the plane to make a brat/cafe style bike. I started a thread in the hangout lounge forum but I am going to start posting here updates and questions I have to get some more action. I plan on rebuilding the forks, carbs, calipers, and changing all the fluids myself before I start making any customizations.

    So I am working on rebuilding the front forks and I cannot remove the 19mm cap bolt to access the spring. Does anyone have any tips on how to get these off?
    I also found why one fork was leaking oil like crazy, the washer the goes on top of the oil seal between the clip was missing. Also they used the wrong length bolt and stuffed washers on it and lots of locktite to make it work.
    [​IMG]
    I was able to remove the air valve but I can't remove to 19mm bolt
    [​IMG]
    Missing washer and wrong bolt
     
  2. mlew

    mlew Well-Known Member

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    I always break then loose before removing from the triple tree. You could bolt them back in, it makes a handy clamp to hold them.
    A air impact wrench will take it off, be sure to use a 6 point socket.
    Last but not my favorite it to clamp in a vise with wood blocks to protect the inner tube. This method will sometimes does not hold well and the tube will rotate in the blocks. Don't clamp the tube directly in the vise jaws, it will mar the chrome finish.
     
  3. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    it is threaded in place soak with kroil to loosen rust
    upload_2017-12-17_0-5-25.png

    haynes manual recomends soft cloth around tube and place it in a vise
    leaving it in the tripple tree is safer
     
  4. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    just remember to loosen the top triple tree clamp so you are not fighting the clamp.
    its late you can also extend the tube section above the triple tree to be able to use upper and lower clamp

    could be some thread lock on the cap maybe some heat to soften it
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
  5. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    I don't recall mine being threaded... I do remember having to push it down to remove a circlip.

    I do recall that the xj700 and virago forks are threaded, and the take a pretty good-sized Allen drive
     
  6. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    Is that the one which can be substituted with a reversed spark plug socket? Where you use an extension on the ratchet and use the hex on the back of the socket instead of the normal orientation? I vaguely remember reading about the process, but not enough to recall the application.
     
  7. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    That for at the bottom of the fork tube so you can remove the retaining bolt
     
  8. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    The reverse spark plug wrench fits the damper bolt inside the fork
     
  9. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I haven,t done my 83 750 yet but the haynes manual does say that it is a change for that year and is threaded.
    manual could be wrong.

    with the torque spec at 6.8 ftlbs it shouldn't be that hard to turn unless it is frozen or thread lock compound was used by po when he redid the tues. it could also be stuck to the seal
     
  10. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Actually, that one fork tube has a spacer washer that shouldn't be there..........no spacer washer was used with original seals (or, aftermarket seals which have the same height as the original seals).

    Cap bolt is threaded. Penetrating oil will (eventually) do the trick.
     
  11. XJ750DB

    XJ750DB Member

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    Quick update here. I followed most of the advice here and I was able to get one side apart after putting it back in the triple tree.
    I let it soak in some liquid wrench and hit it with my impact gun.
    20171217_122552.jpg
    On the other side I learned a very valuable lesson about the importance of six point sockets. I completed rounded off the bolt.
    I am going to let it sit with the penetrating oil and try to weld a larger bolt on top. Unless any of you have better recommendations.
    20171217_122525.jpg
    Thanks, I will discard the spacer as I have already purchased the correct seals from you.
    I am going to replace bolt caps, do you happen to have any of those in stock?
    20171217_122546.jpg
     
  12. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    I just don't remember unscrewing mine.....probably cuz I only had to do that set once, and have done a lot of the others.... Oh well, my bad.
     
  13. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    you could try a bolt the size of the air nipple and lock it down with a nut then see if you can unscrew it using the inserted bolt
     
  14. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    That bolt would just turn back out.

    I would resign myself getting a new cap in advance, then either use a big easy-out in the Schrader hole, or weld a good-sized nut to the top and try turning it out that way. Maybe welding a nut on should be first choice-- if it turns out, the nut can be detached and weld residue ground off, allowing the plug to potentially be re-used
     
  15. XJ750DB

    XJ750DB Member

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    Quick update. I have tried welding a nut on top with no luck. The welds kept braking when I tried turning the nut. I had a bolt that fit into the schrader valve hole and tacked that into the threads. The bolt snapped in half. I picked up some kroil and let it sit overnight. I bought a set of extractor sockets which only rounded the bolt more.

    I am going to try to find a more powerful welder and weld another large nut on top.
    20171223_172328.jpg 20171223_172330.jpg 20171223_172343.jpg
     
  16. joe elliff

    joe elliff Active Member Premium Member

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    Oh that Kroil is good stuff!!
     
  17. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Pretty soon it's gonna be less expensive to get a different fork
     
  18. Chitwood

    Chitwood Well-Known Member

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    When you weld a bit onto a fastener for extraction, making sure you get the best possible penetration into the piece you want extracted is key. Then once you have it stuck on there real good, let it cool for awhile before you start trying to turn it. Once you start trying to turn it, start by carefully working the fastener back and forth little by little, adding penetrating oil as you go.
     
    Stumplifter likes this.
  19. XJ750DB

    XJ750DB Member

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    Well I have tried everything in my power to get the nut to budge with no luck.

    I found a straight pair of forks on ebay which I snagged for $50 +free shipping. I should have them in a week.
     
  20. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    I might be interested in that fork just to keep trying
     

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