1985 XJ700 X Looks like blowen head gasket

Yes I did, this little bike really spins up fast. Got to love the 5 valve head!

 

It dosen't matter. The engine has not a care in the world if the bangs are used to speed up or to slow down.

 

I let the front brake and the engine do most of the work while I ride any of my bikes. Some work better then others, still getting used to the X and she is fun! Rebuilding the petcock and the forks this week. I am sure I will feel a bid difference after that. If we ever get any nice weather here in WI, I will be able to get those rings set.

 

waiting for that weather . . . .

I head to work at 5:30, hasn't been close to 40F. No urban thermal island 'round here. Come off The Hill and frost across the fields.

 

I haven't taken the time for heated grips or for the outlet for my heated gear. That and I am sure I will be getting some type of wind shield, need to start looking for that.

 

great read. glad you got it running. that is one complicated head. I took my head in to a head to get rebuilt, and its a good investment to go through it all.

 

88tlc,

Thanks, just want to keep track of one of the X's we have on the site. Yes the head was something else to get correct. Now the bike starts so nice and runs very well. As you have read above I am still picking at all the little things and then some engine paint and some polishing.

 

Well today I got to take a look at the wiring for the rectifier and or all the little connectors behind the panel by the air box. I will post in the other forum. Today I had to do the three wire from the rectifier on the X as it was melted. So I have owned many a older metric bikes in my life, all but the GS850E had melted three way rectifier plugs. I am sure the Suzuki also has issue with it too, just have not seen any posted.



Also taking care of the forks on the X and ran into two things. One bolt would not move from the lower fork, so had to drill that out. The second one came out like it should. Once I got them apart I noticed that the springs in the bike are progressive. I will have to look in the manual and see if that is normal.

 

Sure would be nice if you could do a video or a step by step picture of the process as I am looking into this myself. Kinda leary of removing the forks as how do I get them to be in alignment again.

 

I can understand that you might feel that way, but the lower forks are held in with the bolt on the bottom. The lower part will turn as needed then a line the fork brace and you are all set. I would make sure you loosen the fork caps while they are still held by the triple clamps, make it easier then then in a vice.

You can either follow the book or wing it Just kidding, go by the book until you get used to it and then you might find a short cut or two. I always seem to have issues getting the bottom bolt out, special tools are needed as there is a socket inside the tube that can be held then loosen the bottom bolt.

I drain the oil and then with the fork still together, hit the bolt with my 1/2" impact wrench, seems to work well on most forks. Some PB blaster always helps to soak them down as well. This time is did have to drill out the side that still had a good seal, the blown seal one came out easy.

If you are like me, the smell of the old fork or ATF is nasty, so be ready for that. It drains and shoots all over the place unless you take your time and let gravity do the job for you.

Pulling the seals out are easy, as they come out with the top tube. Putting them back in is not too bad using the correct size PCV pile and a washer or something that can help transfer some of the force.

Hope that helps.

 

So while I was waiting on parts for both the X and the FJ1200 I thought I would look at the bar grips. It has the really thick foam grips that are rotting. One didn't have a bar weight, so that is something I will have to look into. I would guess like other bikes that I can just get some end weights to make the vibration come down a little. I looked on the fish tape and was shocked to see the long weights that are inside the bars.

I will have to see what grips I will want too, that and I think the stock bars are 7/8? I know the throttle tube had some tape on it and then the left grip has a rubber sleeve under it. Jut a little different then what I am used to seeing.

 

Worked on the forks today and what a difference that made on the road. Took a little time to shin up the lowers too, but will need ore work.

 

So got the chance to check the plugs at the 100 mile point from the top end rebuild. 1 & 2 were a little dark and 3&4 not so bad. I still turned them in 1/2 turn and I will check them again in the next 100 or so miles. The bench synch was close too, 1 & 4 were the only ones that were off, and not by far.

So when the bike is running, your sitting on it and then mover your hand down to the throttle seals and feel what seems to be a throbbing on the throttle seals. So for this riding season it will have to do, but then I will have to get some new seals and when the snow is flying, I will change them out.

The bike does run very well and here is hoping the with a little mystery oil on the throttle shafts that it will last this riding season. On another note, both horns are getting voltage but they are not working. Tapped them a few times and then put them a cross a good 12 battery in my shop, nothing.

Last but not least I would like to get at least a 10" wind shield, thinking the Hell fire but would take any suggestions.

 

Keep an ear out for popping under off-throttle deceleration. That's a sign of being lean, and will let you know that the throttle shaft seals are getting worse.

 

Thanks k-moe, so far so good, I am just guessing the throttle shaft seals are going out. I would guess you should not feel that pressure from the end of the throttle shaft. I know that the two sides, (#1 & 4) were not the same feeling. Just trying to get them dialed in the best I can for now. I think I am close she sure does ride nice for a little 700. Still not liking all the bugs on the shirt and hitting the helmet.

 

Shirt?

Get a good riding jacket. Skin grafts suck (and cost a lot).

 

I missed an earlier post. All models in the XJ series came from the factory with progressive wound fork springs.

 

That is so cool about the progressive springs, that is nice.

 

Well, sorta:

Original coil springs are what are known as "dual rate springs"........they have one fixed spring rate until a certain level of compression is reached, and then a firmer, stiffer rate (stronger resistance to compression) takes over (soft, soft, soft, soft, boom! stiff, stiff, stiff.......).

Replacement springs are what are known as a "progressive rate springs".........meaning that as the load on them increases, they get progressively firmer (softest, softest, soft, less soft, firm, firmer, firmer, really firm), rather than the "all or nothing" transition that takes places with the stock springs. Progressive rate springs tends to give both a smoother, less harsh ride, as well as increasing the performance of the front suspension during enthusiastic driving and the suspension action that it creates.

 

Thank you for the correction.