30% of the way there...

Just polished the bare aluminum. I used the same 2K paint as I used for the fuel tank and side covers. It's supposed to be good up to 300°F, but time will tell.

 

Just hand painted the side covers... with a dental pick.

 

That's really nice that you can bake the coating like that!

What's the time/temp on a bake like that?

Maybe a stupid question - but do you have to worry about heat effects on any gaskets or plastic chain guides or anything like that? (yes, I know they must be designed for heat since they are in an engine, that's why I said it maybe a stupid question).

In the auto refinishing world, you can't use the same heat to bake as the OEM since there is typically a lot of stuff that would melt and disassembling would be cost prohibitive of course - so just curious.

 

That's why the cases are empty.

 

There are no gaskets or plastics in the cases. I strip all of that stuff out when I hot tanked everything.

I baked at 200F for 30 mins, cool for 30 mins, baked at 400F for 30 mins, cool for 30 mins, baked at 600F for 30 mins, then let cool.

 

Fleabay fail... again.

At least the seller refunded my money and corrected the listing.

 

Not so fun fact.

On US models of the XJ650 Maxim, the brake caliper doesn't come off the fork.

So now I have to figure out how to clean, repaint and rebuild it in place.

 

It's a unique front caliper, but it is removable. The pivot bolt described in the book is accessed from the bottom, underneath a plastic plug that hides the bolt head.

I've looked at those "universal" master cylinders also. No matter what bike, or how many calipers they operate, or what the bore of the original master, they spec the exact same part....it magically fits everything! And of course it doesn't, and they definitely should be avoided.

 

Woo Hoo!

 

Imagine having to buy a slider and caliper as one unit .

 

Nice! That caliper on the front of the 650 is the same as the rear brake on the 1100 (I've just recently discovered them myself!) . Seems like one of the few instances that Yamaha used a common part for dual purpose. Otherwise they seemed to radically change caliper designs between models and years....for what reason I dunno.

You'll notice that the pads are tapered in thickness. That's normal, and necessary because of the swinging whilst clamping geometry.

Edit! Ok, same design, same pads, but not interchangeable. They are mirrored left and right. So another unique design by Yamaha.

 

The brake caliper is cleaned and painted.

 

Side covers are finished.

 

Those look great. It looks like you painted the "Maxim" the same color? How did you prep that, or peel off the old foil type cover?

 

I powder coated the crash bars I bought off fleabay.

 

Yes, I painted "MAXIM" the same color (by hand, with a 6 hair paint brush, talk about tedious!).

I sanded to 320, then applied a self etching primer.

 

I've rebuilt the front master cylinder, except for the sight glass. Still waiting for that to arrive. Now onto the rear drum.

 

Scrubbed, degreased, and soda blasted, then installed new brake shoes.

 

Cleaned and repainted the disc to match the body color.

 

Luckily I wear a respirator. I've done so much spraying on this bike.

 

I'm already tired tomorrow.

 

I'm starting to see the finish line.

 

You're getting a heck of a lot of work done in a short time on this thing. Enjoying seeing the progress.

 

nice color choice. my son's first car, given to him from his uncle

 

May as well with as far as I went.

 

I think you made the right call here! And that's really easy to say when you have to do all the work...

Are you going to sandblast?

 

Looks already painted.

 

Yes, I already painted it.

I wire wheeled any rust, and gave it a light sanding. Then rattle canned with VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint. (Seems to be a good epoxy coating)

It came out quite nice.

According to the directions it cures in 30 minutes, I decided to leave it overnight.

 

Forward progress!

 

Any suggestions on what to do with the rust on the underside of the fender?

The chrome on top isn't terrible, I should be able to polish it nicely. But the underside, I'm thinking sand and paint?

 

Polish the chrome and move on.
If you’re going to ride this bike it will get covered in dirt and you can’t see it anyway.

 

To prevent possible rust through , you could clean off most rust, then de-rust with something like Evapo-Rust, paint if desired, then spray with undercoating.

 

Another vote for rust treatment and undercoat spray.

Excellent work. Can’t imagine how many hours you must’ve put into this project.

 

That fender is perfectly normal.
I think any paint you put there will flake anyway. If you’re worried about the rust just rub oil into it. After riding I’ll bet it looks like this again anyway

 

I think I'm going to wire wheel the rust down to the base metal, prime and paint.

While I ponder, I'll begin on the engine.

 

Whew!

 

I know what I'm doing... (nervously shifts eyes left and right)

 

3 essential tools for any build...caffeine, nicotine and blue shop towels.

 

Did you change the chain guide? Not expensive part and it will save you a lot of work in future when the old one breaks up . Heat the bolts to soften the factory loctite and fit new bolts and torque then to spec.

 

The OEM one is in fantastic shape.

 

Small victories.

 

No one likes crusty nuts.

 

My concern is that I'm going to be using Permatex Ultra Grey and not Yamabond 4... I hope it's a suitable equivalent.

 

She's coming together.

 

F#CK!

Because neither of shop manuals that I have were clear on it, I now have tear apart the engine that I just spent all day putting together, because I have a shim on the middle gear in the wrong place...

 

GRRRRRRR!

 

I'm now at a standstill on the engine.

I'll start polishing the chrome tomorrow I guess.

 

Sorry to see that. At least clutch baskets are still fairly easy to get on eBay, etc.

 

While I wait for replacement parts...