750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor.

There is no Sensor.
The PO cut-off the Sensor and connected the Sensor's wire directly to the Hot side of the Battery when the Battery was replaced by an aftermarket Battery having no place for a Sensor.

The PO also removed the "Fog" Light.
The Master Cylinder Reservoir was nearly empty.
The RED wire on the Voltage Regulator was not making a good connection to the RED wire on the Harness.

As each of these things were troubleshooted and resolved; I had hoped the Warning Light would go out.
It didn't.

I am not exactly sure about the Ignition System being trouble-free.
I Ohmed-out the 1-4 Coil several times and got different readings.
The Primary's Ohmed-out ZERO - twice; and tried to make it to 2 Ohms - once.
The Secondary side reached 11,000 and held.

I have no "Electronics" experience and the wiring schematic for the Bike printed in the Haynes Manual looked like an opened box of spaghetti thrown onto a light-brown tarp and photographed in Black and White.

I have no idea why the bike needs Computer Monitoring of things a simple "Idiot Light" could handle ... but, staring at a 3-Inch Wide, Red, Warning Light is irritating during the day ... I imagine it would be really a bother at night.

 

Rick, Any luck with that battery warning on the LCD display. I was thinking it must be a bad connection somewhere. If the computer is picking up there is no voltage back, its tripping the warning light. I wonder if one or more pins inside the cluster could be loose or just not making good connections. Too bad you don't have another cluster to swap out to try to narrow it down.

Ron

 

That Wasrning Light became the least of our worries.
We got cold Exhaust Pipes on a running engine to sort-out, first!

Since the miss seems to be bouncing around from 4 -to- 3 (with the likelihood of BOTH Coils not being bad ... I'm having the Owner come and get a Shop Igniter and run the Bike on a different TCI to see what happens.

All I need to take care of the Warning Light are some Black vinyl tape and a sharp pair of scissors!
I want to get the guys bike running good before we sort-out incendentals.

 

Hey rick, i may have missed it here, but does the LDC display say anything on it for warnings? if my warning light is on, i have at least one thing pop up on the lcd display.

 

Blue,

If any of the items stay on when the display goes through the check. It will trip the red warning light. Just the computer telling you there is a problem.

 

MN, i know that the warning light is tripped that way. i was just wondering if he had any warnings on the LCD when the warning light is on. If not, there is a malfunction in the computer.

 

I'm putting getting the Computer Display to work on a back burner.
I want to unravel why the engine isn't running good; first!

I have a feeling, due to the history of the Bike, that there are gremlins that nobody wanted to take the time to troubleshoot.
Multiple snowballing malfunctions ... those kind of gremlins.

So, we're going to try running it on a Shop "Test" Igniter and see what shakes-out.

This is one of those bargains that come-along and require doing a good bit of "Restoration-maintenance" to bring it back from the dead.
You conquer one problem at a time and get closer to it running good; when some other problem it has pops-up and set you back some.

It presents a challenge.
The Member who bought it is a Fireman. His job is to be there for everybody.
The very least I can do is help him get his bike ironed-out.
I thought it was going to be one of those simple "First round knock-outs".
No dice.

We're already into the fifth round and the gremlins are ahead on points!

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

Very good tips. I'll have to follow MN's advice of cleaning connectors. Corrosion could very well hinder the computer from getting the levels it needs. So, I'll check that out. My problem is a blinking warning light and the "BATTERY" indicator on. During the ride to work, it turns off. Sometimes it turns off while idling too, so it's not RPM related, thus not alternator related (am I wrong). Either way, YES, it is annoying during the day and at night!

The PO on this one spliced the sensor wire into another hot wire. I fixed that and now am tormented by blinking red. My search that led me here is simple: "What does the blinking battery warning mean?" Is it the liquid level in the battery, or the voltage coming from the battery?

Thanks.

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

Both, really.

If your battery is dead, and the alternator is doing all the work, the sensor won't "sense" any voltage and the warning indicator will flash.

Also, if your battery acid is lower than the sensor, the sensor can't "sense" any voltage, causing the indicator to flash.

It's kind of an "all around" battery warning.

 

Does hooking the battery sensor wire straight to the possitive side work to make the light go out? I could care less about having a battery sensor but the one for the kickstand I like. Otherwise I would just take the bulb out of the warning light.

But if that red light does not quit blinking I may just do it anyway

 

It should.

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

so...there are problems with the battery sensor?

I wished I had known that BEFORE i bought a new battery!!!!

Ok, so anyway I replaced my battery, but I still get a battery warning light on the cluster. You guys are saying I can tie it to the battery directly and it will fool the cpu into thinking it's good and shut that stupid red light off?

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

If you are using the sensor make sure the tip is clean and make sure you have continuity from the tip to the connector. I repaired mine not too long ago whwre the wire was partially broken right where it enters the sensor probe. Also make sure the sensor is actually making contact with the battery acid inside the battery casing.

 

Connecting it directly to the Battery does NOT "Cycle" the Board.
Connecting it to the Battery gives you +12V-- Constant ON.

You really need to add 2.4K Ohms of resistance to the Sensor Wire and splice the Sensor Wire with the added resistance to:

The + 12V Switched Source that you will find nearby, ... which runs back to the Tail Light.
+ 12V Switched On/Off fm Ignition ... powering Tail Light.
NOT the Brake Light.