81 xj550 project

So I'm thinking: intake boots warm up, get soft and expand which results in a leak which causes the high idle?

 

Nah.... The idle will be tend to be higher when the bike is warm.

I usually adjust the idle to where it's maybe a tad high when it's really really warm, but not too low when it's cold. But I also will adjust the idle speed, at times, or on some of my bikes depending on the season

 

Some cheap or old intake boots have been known to come apart on the inside and collapse, stopping airflow. No visible damage on the outside, but prevents engine from breathing. Probably not the problem here, but I wanted to put the idea out there.

 

They don't leak when cold, I tested with starter fluid sprayed around the area. Bike idles fine as shown in video a few posts before. Ride for like 10 minutes (engine gets hot) and it is racing. Need to take a video next time.

I can go down with idle a bit without having issues, but it wouldn't be enough to bring it down from that racing rpm when hot.

Inside is fine, I had them off in the build process and checked. Outside, where the clamps sit, is a bit cracked on one or two. but that's only the outside and covered by clamps. Again, simple starter fluid test didn't show any increased idle so I assume it all good (bike was kind of cold though).

 

What a blast to ride. Makes me want to get more tattoos for whatever strange reason.

With having temperatures of over 90 and an unpleasant humidity, I only ride the bike early in the mornings at the moment. Less traffic too.
Can't believe how smooth she runs. I like the seating position too, and the short clipons. All in all its a great ride. I just have to get used to shifting more, my previous bike was mainly in 2nd gear at all times.
I'll ride her for another 30 miles or so and change the oil. I read somewhere these bikes like the oil level on the higher side, correct?

 

Just fill it so there's a tiny bubble at the top of the window when you're on the center stand. Run it a bit to circulate oil through, then shut it off let it settle, check, and top-off if needed. Otherwise.... Just stay between the lines on the side of the window

 

Will do.
Thanks Dave.

 

Since my FZR is not going anywhere this weekend, I think I am going to tackle the neutral light project. Annoying not to have that.
I also need to route the clutch cable better. Side covers are on the list as well.

 

Um... they have. https://www.erikbuellracing.com

 

Yeah, but I was thinking of Harley. Imagine a 180hp Sportster.

 

Well, looks like the bike is gone by next weekend. Just had a guy look at it and he's in love. I'll drop it off at his place next Sunday. For that kind of money, I'm happy to be the delivery service

 

I don't think even Harley imagined that....

 

Decided to keep Major Pita for a bit longer. She seems to run better every time I take her out. Turning into a fun bike.
Also, there is a bike show in September I wanted to take her to and also wanted to get nice pics taken at some point. You know, the lady-bike themed ones.

 

So what you Really mean is…

The deal fell through, Huh?

 

Well, yes and no. Last weekend's guy did fall through but I wasnt so sure anyway. A: bike is fun (rode it every day in early morning this week) and looks cool and B: that guy in particular was new to riding. Another thing is that I am not yet done with her. Still have to do details, add the neutral light back on etc.
Even thinking about swappable tank and tail to change looks if I like.
And it bothered me not to have had pics of girls on the bike. And the show. For 4 years I have been trying to get a bike ready for that show. Now I finally have one.
On the other side, the money would have been nice.

 

BTW, here is a video of the bike when hot and idling high. Not as bad as the first time I reported, but still a bit high.

 

Sounds like about 2 grand, She does came back down right away after the throttle blip though. Can you back the idle speed screw out a bit? Won't take much. I forget whether you have a tach or not, but if you back it down and start to hear the primary chain slap then bump it back up until that goes away and you'll have the idle set.

 

Not sure if taking some out will cause issues when bike is cold/warm but will definitely try. Just need to figure out how not to burn my fingers.
And no, don't have a tach, but can easily hook up the original one for testing. If bike is warm, what should the idle be? Around 1200 if I remember correctly?

 

Well, usually the label on the side cover says 1050, but really you have to find what works best for you... My bikes like to idle best around 1100 or so, but my 700 idles best right around 900-950

 

^ that.

 

Ok. I will play with the adjustment and see if I can bring her down a bit. Thanks guys.

 

Probably in manual somewhere but when do you adjust idle? Warm or hot engine? There seems to be a slight difference, at least when looking at the behavior of my bike.

 

I do both..... Find out where it likes to be cold, then fond out where it likes to be hot.....then try to find the best happy medium that I can live with.

 

Ok. So it's really playing around and finding the sweet spot.
And why is it 100 degrees again today?
This heat is not bike friendly at all. Not even to work on them. And I have so many things i want to do...

 

The heat is far worse for you than it is for the bike.
Painting the house is taking forever. I have to stop around 10 AM, or the paint will dry before it even hits the siding.

 

Can imagine. Best time to work these days is between 5 and 9 in the morning.

 

Quickie: how long do fork springs last?
I didn't rebuild my forks, just new fluid. There are no leaks so I didn't see a reason to disassemble them.
I feel like the front could be a bit stiffer and I think the bike doesn't fully come up sometimes. When taking off after a stop and there is less weight on the front, the bike comes up by maybe half an inch.
Nothing concerning, just wondering.

 

They last a long time.... All my bikes still have them in them

 

Thanks, thought so. And it had good pressure when trying to squeeze them back into the shafts to put the cap on after the fluid change.

Possible that because of the riding position, it gets more weight than what they were designed for? Just throwing ideas out there.

But again, nothing important, just trying to learn more.

See, now I'm going into all those little details on the bike since there is nothing major going on anymore

 

Careful... you just might reconsider selling it... heh...

 

Sounds like an invention in need of further development.

Must be a "dry" heat, right, am I right, or amiright?

 

Dave, you're such a kidder.....

 

Unfortunately not. After years of extreme drought, we're having quite the wet summer. I'm right on the edge of two climate zones (like exactly two blocks from the demarcation line). That makes things extra fun some years.

 

That's normal. Weight transfers to the rear and the forks extend fully as a result.

 

Hmm ok.
I am used to having the forks come back up right after the stop when the weight is no longer on the front end. Not only at take off.

 

Increased stiction. Maybe because of the seals being old, or worn bushings?

 

I adjusted the idle after last long run while engine was hot. I just had the bike out and I think I am at the minimum idle speed now. Bike idles very low when warm but doesn't stall. I do need to hold choke a bit longer when cold but that was expected. It is still less than two minutes.
Every time I ride it, I am very happy how well it runs. The entire carb tune is really the key and was well worth the time. I hope I can get my FZR there as well.

 

You'll have to find a happy medium between the warm (just off enrichment) idle, and the hot idle or you'll have trouble with cold starts. You'll also want to keep the idle hight enough that the primary chain tensioner gets enough oil pressure to work.

 

The latter, how would I know?
I am going to hook up the tach to see where I am at the moment. All in all I think I am good but will confirm the rpm. I didn't take that much away, I'd say not even a "petal" turn (the idle adjustment know reminds me of a flower)

 

If the tensioner isn't getting enough oil pressure you'l hear the primary chain slapping at idle.

 

Ah ok. Nope, all good then.

 

Finally got my oil and filter change done. Oil was quite dirty for only 60 miles, so was the filter. But that was expected. The bike probably sat for years. The magnet didn't catch anything worrisome.
I also lubed the chain. I really need to get different lube, the one I have leaves a white residue. Not pretty

 

Uh-oh

You're gonna get Matti all fired up------

 

Oh dear, I did not think of that. I hope he doesn't see my other thread where I talk about rods.

 

You just KNOW he's gonna go look for it now......

 

Wax. Get chain wax.

 

Cool, I'll check it out. Any issues with it flying off and making a mess?

 

Busy morning:
Took off tank and checked the petcock filter inside. Looked good, no dirt.

Repainted front fender and drilled hole for clutch cable guide. New routing is still left to do.

And off course I topped off with too much oil after the oil change yesterday and had to drain a bit.

Cleaned up some wiring to front brake.

 

That's real or a joke (a good one)?
Need to Google