81 xj550 project

Ah, that's why it didn't work.
And I was about to slowly warm up the fuel-water mixture with a propane torch to make the water evaporate.


(Thanks for the correction though, I knew it started with a "d". Lol )

Well, at least I'm still laughing. And the bike has her name for a good reason.

 

Probably the only time it will get wet... Man, I love this color.

 

Quick question: how long does it usually take to get all the air out of a new front brake setup? New Mc, new line, empty brake.
I am using a vacuum pump, but I might be doing something wrong. I do get some liquid, but still lots of air. Currently I am doing this: fill up reservoir, apply vacuum, pull brake lever and open valve. Close valve, release brake lever. Apply vacuum again, pull lever, open valve, close valve, release lever etc. Yesterday I tried just applying vacuum without pulling and releasing brake lever. But no success either.
Or maybe it just takes quite some time?

 

Have you tried to just gravity bleed it for a few hours? Might be worth a shot

 

Not yet. But I couldn't leave it over night in case the reservoir runs dry, no?

 

Sounds like something isn't closed yet.... Still sucking in air....

 

Left tank in my car all day which got enough sun to dry up any water.
Spoke to the shop that did the tank. Didn't come from them. I realized that I would have noticed when handling the tank while putting petcock on.
So either dirty gas or something inside tank came lose with the fuel.

But fear not, I just ordered a mini camera that I can hook up to my phone...

Depstech Micro USB Borescope Waterproof Inspection Camera for Laptops and USB OTG Compatible Android Smartphones - 11.48 ft (3.5 m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016RLEUIS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Yi4qxb88B3YH7

 

That way you can SEE when you're out of gas

 

Always good to have visual confirmation. Gonna put a permanent monitor on the handlebar

 

Ordered a new petcock which is now finally holding the fuel. The other one was still leaking.
I put some gas in before I left for the long weekend. Let's see how it looks on Monday when back home. And I'm hoping to get at least 15 mins on the bike before I have to leave for my business trip again on Wednesday.

 

Keeping fingers crossed for you....

 

Thanks Dave. "Tropical rainfall" forecasted for Monday. So that sucks.

 

Tank is on and seat is installed.
Still need to do front brake, trying the reverse thing tomorrow. Using a syringe to fill it from the bottom upwards. Oh and hooking up the brakes to the brake light.
But should be OK for a slow ride around the block. Definitely want to do it before heading out for business tomorrow evening.

 

Well, my test ride on Wednesday didn't go so well. Bike kept stalling and would only run with choke. Think I need to do some adjustments when back. Color tune maybe and idle screw? Had to push it back half a block because it would not stay on.
Back next Sunday and will be off the next day. Hopefully I get it sorted. It did run fine a few weeks back and would idle by itself with no choke. But no big deal. I'll spend some time and figure out out.

 

I think you're on the right track. Do a running synch as well if you can.

 

Yes, I can and will do a running sync as well.
Btw, any tricks on how to turn the idle screw when big hands make it difficult to really reach it?

 

Bribe the neighbor-kid with pizza.


I find it's easest to reach from the right side of the bike, while kneeling.

 

It's like you're praying to your carbs, that's the real secret...............

 

Hence. "CHURCH. Of Clean"

Lol

 

You got it!

 

Back from my trip, hoping to get some bike time tomorrow.
Since the bike only stays running on choke at the moment, how would I go about color tuning?

 

You would not. If it's still only running on choke once it's warmed up, and the pilot screws are at 2 1/2 turns out, then there is still something wrong.

 

If need be, send'em back up and I'll double-check my work, but here's a question.... Did you replace the manifold boots? I know Jayrodoh had the same thing happening, and it turned out his boots were delaminating on the inside. That solved it.......

It doesn't make sense that it's happening now, though, after you've been riding it a little while ago......

 

Gotcha.
No, didn't replace them. They don't look perfect anymore but they didn't leak either last time I checked.
Well, let's see. I'll go through everything again today and report back

 

Just wanted to fire her up real quick but nothing happened. No cranking, but lights are on. Giving it a good charge now and will see what happens in a few hours...

 

Could it be that some of the sandblasting sand from having the tank cleaned got caught and clogging enricher tubes And/or jets

 

I have petcock filter as well as inline filter. So far it looks clear.
But it should still crank, even if there was an issue with fuel.

 

Yeah.....so many people mix up 'cranking' with 'firing'.....my bad. I should know you of all people would be using correct terms..

 

Weird. Checked everything (wire connections are ok) and bridged the starter relay to check. It cranked.

Tested the starter button again right after and it cranked. Still not sure what it is/was, maybe the starter relay? It was new though. Now everything is working. Strange

 

No issues with bike after I gave it a bit more idle using the idle adjustment screw. Been riding around the block a few times. Now I just need a front brake to make it less scary

Also need to fine tune a little. It's OK but I know it can do better.

 

Very possible that the starter button has some bad contact Spot

 

Yes, possible. I opened the starter button assembly but didn't see anything that looked wrong.
Let's see how it behaves in the future. It was just really weird, especially how it got fixed.

 

When that happens for me, wi wiggle the button back and forth while depressing it to see if I can get a contact. More often than not, that works.....

 

Hmm, not much to wiggle. It's an aftermarket one that is basically just a small round button.

 

Correct, but the back of it is an even smaller point they can fill up with dirt, corrosion, or get worn. Wiggling it can often get that momentary contact that is needed

 

Cool, I will check that should it happen again.

 

Finally found the time to connect brake switches to tail light but will have to take bike to a shop for front brake. That's the last thing to do (other than building side covers at some point).
I just can't get any pressure into the system. I used this shop before a few times and he said he'd have a look.
I'll get my inspection done right after.

 

Is it possible that you're having trouble because of the low angle on the handlebars vs. the steeper stock angle?

Dave

 

Not sure.
I did make sure reservior is full at all times.
The old one I had (and could not find a lever for) made up for the clipon angle. The new one does not. But it should still be good.
One thing is can try is to put the bike on the side stand to really level it and try again.
Other than that, no idea.
Never had issues with bleeding a system, however this is the first time I do it on a completely dry system.

 

Finally managed to do the color tune. 1 and 2 were way lean. 3 and 4 were good.
Bike ran well, even better than before, until it stalled on me at a stop sign. And since it wouldn't turn on again because the battery was dead, I had to push it home. Walk of shame....
Now I'll have to check charging system just to be safe- thanks Dave for the phone call.
I did a lot without charging battery over the last weeks (bike on and off, wiring etc), let's hope it's just that.

 

Major Pita strikes again.
Just tested battery with bike off and on (revving the engine pretty good).
No change in voltage which leaves me to believe the charging system is no good.
And nope, other than putting a new rectifier on, I haven't touched anything else.
I'll browse the forum and/or manual later on for trouble shooting help..

 

BTW, i have a lithium battery, in case that matters for whatever reason...

 

But on a positive note, bike idles easier and quicker now after letting off the choke. Color tune helped there I guess.

 

The voltage did not go up at all when measured at 2,500 RPM, or when measured at 4,000 RPM?

Before you decide that the regulator is bad, have you (I forget) inspected/ cleaned/ replaced the alternator brushes and cleaned the rotor traces?

 

Since I don't have a tachometer, it is hard to say whst the exact rpm were. I revved it hard and no change at all.
Not sure if it's the regulator. This was replaced with a new part.
And no, I have not yet checked the brushes and or anything else alternator related.
Dave already sent me this link which I will use to troubleshoot:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/

 

Opened the alternator and it was dirty. I cleaned it up, brushes looked good as well. Still no increase in voltage at higher rpm.
Didn't have much time today, hoping to spend an hour or two tonight.
I did check the three white wires but a: not sure I set up the meter correctly (but I think so) and b: I am getting different readings than what's in manual. If I remember correctly, it says 0.5 ohm, I get 1.2 on all of them. So maybe there is an issue?
But I have no idea what that means/if it means that. Completely dumb when it comes to electrical stuff.

 

Have patience. We'll learn ya.

 

Thanks. Good to have that support. I'll dig into it tonight, hopefully, and report back.

 

At least I have an ambitious motorcycle.
The way things are going Major Pita will soon be General Pita. I hope I don't have to see the day when I promote it to Predident.

 

I read somewhere that you can check the alternator and whether it generates a magnetic field by holding a feeler gauge close to the cover and see if it gets attracted. Theory sounds good, but in practice?