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82' 750 Resurrection

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Brandon Spencer, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Thanks! Yes won't mess too much with sync screws until it's time to do a proper sync.

    My plan as it gets colder is a full bike and engine tear down. Rebuild the top end, new piston rings, check valves etc.

    Then confirm my design for this build.
     
  2. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    So I tested both my stator and regulator/rectifier which they both checked out OK. Some new connectors will be headed their way in the future.

    Thinking ahead I am stuck between 2 options for wiring the bike. I already plan on not keeping the Atari and want to switch everything to LED.

    Option 1: Keeping stock harness
    -Remove Atari following "Atari Delete" for wiring of headlight and tail lights which will be a all in one LED bucket and LED rear lights.
    --Unsure what exactly to wire for LED lights in rear and flasher capability
    -Install new speedo/tac (Acewell)
    -New fuse box (for safety reasons)
    -New controls wired with new connectors to stock harness
    -Possible different Reg/Rec for Li-Ion battery??

    Option 2: Fully remove stock electrical - M-UNIT
    -Wire all above fresh to the M-Unit with wiring kit
    -Still possibility of needed a different Reg/Rec

    I will note anything that is stock that I will not keep, I will post here for sale. I'm sure people are always looking for parts.

    Let me know your opinions!
     
  3. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    there is a thread on removing the atari and another for going led and having every thing work
     
  4. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Yep I have read both of those a few times. Good instructions. Wish the pics stayed as I am a visual learner, but can follow written directions :)
     
  5. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  6. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Purchased a used air-box and boots, not trying to fiddle with pods. Plus I kind of want to keep the stock look with the side covers flowing to the rear.

    Planning on diving into the electronics tonight for labeling and removal of Atari unit. I will go the route of using the stock harness but also updating components/wiring.

    I'd like to get things re-wired before stripping the motor out for deep clean and re-build.

    Next update will include more pics!
     
  7. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    ATARI unit has been removed and all wires labeled!!

    I have new controls, speedometer and a fuse block coming in next week. I'll also be replacing most of the connectors since they are brittle.

    Following instructions on "How to remove rectangular instruments" I have everything ready for a non-ATARI setup (hopefully).


    Reading the LED post, I am still uncertain if the tail lights will need a resister put into place. My plan is to replace the stock bulbs (12v32/3CPB) with LED 1157 and also the license plate light.

    I will do the LED flasher/SPDT install for the turn signals. Would these also require a resister?

    Final question is about my model, is it typical for the 82" XJ750RH to have only one front disk brake? Unless I have totally labeled this bike wrong, or the PO swapped fronts at some point.




    20191127_125355.jpg 20191127_125404.jpg 20191127_125426.jpg 20191127_125439.jpg
     
  8. Rusty81

    Rusty81 Member

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    Search for the the tech topic “model ID and VINs” for how to identify what you have. I think the 650’s had one front rotor and 750’s have two. Not to say someone didn’t change it up
     
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  9. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    led tail light will triger the atari warning there is a fix for that
    led flasher with led will be fine

    you should have 2 discs up front is there a caliper mount on lower fork tube?
    I also do not see air adjuster and connections at top of fork tube. that may be a 550 maxim front end
     
  10. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Yeah the ATARI will not be going back, so should be good to go then for LED.

    So there is a caliper mount on the other fork tube. There is an aftermarket master cylinder installed, so possibly removed the other caliper and dual hose set up?

    Going through the VIN identification, frame and engine are definitely 82' XJ750RH. PO could of swapped fronts or removed the other disk and caliper.

    Can always add the other disk and caliper, which I may want to do. Just thought it was weird I did not have a dual set up
     
  11. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    seca would have the remote mastercylinder maybe thats why it was changed.
    if the atari is not going back on do not worry about needing resistors to any lights
    you will want to check the size of the MC to see if it will support dual disc
     
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  12. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Brandon, nice work I plan on doing the same with one of my winter projects. I will be keeping an eye on this thread...Thanks again for posting it.
     
  13. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Thanks guys!

    I'll keep posting updates as I work through this build
     
  14. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Pre-Holiday update

    So I've continued working on the electrical side and have made some good progress.

    First I started with a proper repair on the start/stop switch wiring that the PO did who knows what to. No longer have intermittent starting issues:
    20191130_151538.jpg
    20191201_105354.jpg

    Soldered all the connections and heat shrink-wrapped them.

    My new fuse block arrived and I created all new connections and added solder (never trust crimp connections):
    20191205_133656.jpg

    At this point I was comfortable with re-looming the wires and wrapped everything up:
    20191208_161848.jpg
    20191216_142005.jpg

    For now I decided to go with a different speedometer/tac. Connected the corresponding wires that I labeled and hooked them up. Now upon turning the key, tail lights, license plate lights and the speedo turn on. I have a new inline fuse to install for the stock glass one:

    20191210_233543.jpg

    I checked that the turn signals work and also it reads my fuel float from the tank.

    20191212_224541.jpg

    Latest package to arrive are all new LED's for tail/brake and license plate lights:

    20191216_142041.jpg

    I also found a weak ground connection and corrected that. Old semi-burnt connectors were replaced for the Reg/Rec as well as some others.

    Needed to search Ebay for a used twist throttle as mine shattered due to brittle plastic. Found a OEM one for $12 and works like a charm.

    My plan is to continue working on the electrical and get the bike started again. Next update will hopefully include a new headlight and I also need to replace the handle bars as they are bent
     
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  15. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    starter bolt missing or snapped?
     
  16. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Snapped....my fault. Good thing is it snapped with some material above the case. So I should be able to weld a nut on and remove it. Have to add that to my list of hardware that will be replaced
     
  17. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Interesting find on the Seca today. Wanted to get her fired up again after new wiring and I ran into my first problem again of the starter not working. Loud audible "Click" from the solenoid but nada from the starter.

    I was able to jump directly to the starter sometimes but it was not constant. So after reading the post from tskaz: Replacing your starter motor brushes w/ pics;

    I gave it a shot since rebuilding the starter would be good anyway. Well, it's dirty and gears covered in engine oil....not sure if that is right...bushings are shot and def needs a rebuild:


    Few questions for those who have done this:

    What is the best way to clean all of the "dust" if you will out of the magnet body? (Besides shop towels and elbow grease) Contact cleaner spray? (WD40 Specialist)

    What type of grease should be used when re-assembling? (I have STP Multipurpose avail)


    Parts that are not electronic based are set for time in the ultrasonic.

    I will be ordering a rebuild kit just as tskaz and also a new solenoid as a extra precaution

    20191222_142804.jpg 20191222_142809.jpg 20191222_142817.jpg 20191222_143015.jpg 20191222_144502.jpg

     
  18. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Digging further into the front end, I found I need new forks or fork tubes. My other issue is my Seca only came with the one disk brake and caliper, not 2.

    Been looking for a Seca 750 LH Caliper with no such luck (Besides one on ebay for $200+)

    I purchased rotors from another member so now I have 2 as well as a Maxim LH Caliper.

    Are Seca 750 and Maxim 750 fork tubes the same diameter? I was thinking of just swapping to a Maxim front end (Fork tubes, dual calipers/disk brakes)
     
  19. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    I finished up rebuilding the starter motor, placed back onto bike and she now has no issues. Cleaned everything by hand or using parts washer. Used metal polish on the armature and commutator.


    20191227_160524.jpg
    20191227_160519.jpg

    My new handlebars and grips arrived. I decided to modify the OEM throttle tube to work with any grip:

    Cut off the end with the 4 tabs and enlarged hole to match opening:
    20191229_154948.jpg
    20191229_155405.jpg

    Used a belt sander to remove all the ridges. Followed up with 400 then 1000 grit sandpaper to make the tube smooth
    20191229_161025.jpg

    Thought I took a pic of new handlebars but I did not. It will be in another update.

    New headlight came in as well. Mocked up the mounting to test power. DRL LED's work as well as each integrated amber turn. New LED flasher works like a charm, auto cancel does not work without the mod.

    However I found there is no power running to the Y or G wires for the headlight. I need to troubleshoot this further as it could be the headlight relay...

    20191229_150108.jpg
     
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  20. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    For future wiring repairs it is best to use melt-seal crimp splices instead of solder and shrink tube on primary harness repairs. Race cars -never- use solder on any loom wiring. It's a wreck waiting to happen. A cold solder joint may not be visible when you've finished but it will break loose after repeat vibrations from the engine. If you begin having intermittent electrical issues down the road, re-do your solder splices. A crimp will fail only if the wire pulls out and that will be obvious.
     
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