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82' 750 Resurrection

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Brandon Spencer, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    What speedo did you go with? I will be doing close to the same thing you are. What size is that Virago you have?
     
  2. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Speedo is a super cheap Chinese one from eBay (also on Amazon). Took a chance as sticking to a budget for now and very happy with it. Search for this and a bunch will pop up: 12000rpm Motorcycle Universal LCD Digital Speedometer Tachometer

    The Virago is a 92' XV750 that will get rebuilt once this project is done. It needs a top end rebuild.
     
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  3. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    that starter thinks it went to heaven :)
     
  4. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Yeah, I think starters get neglected despite how much heavy work they have to do on a regular basis. The OE starters are well made and just need new grease, bearings, seals and brushes every now and then.
    CRC Electric Motor cleaner does a nice job of cleaning those electric bits up. Dries fast.
     
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  5. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    starters are overlooked. should be part of the plan just to make sure its good.
     
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  6. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Bike has been stripped down!!

    Took today and fully took the bike apart and separated the engine from frame.

    Lots of surface rust to remove then paint from the frame, swing arm and exhaust system.

    Been keeping a list of all parts I know I will need to order from Chacal. Bearings seem OK on the rear wheel but may replace anyway. New ones needed for front wheel and swing arm. New rear brake pads, front rebuild as well. Triple tree channels need to be cleaned, lubed and should be good to go.

    Forks have been put aside as I am awaiting a set from another member which are in better condition then mine.

    Most of the hardware I will be able to clean up, none seem damaged in anyway (besides the header studs and hardware good lord...)

    New rear shocks will be purchased to go along with my "ideal" paint scheme.

    Seems now I need to go into cleaning mode for these parts. Remove all rust, de-grease etc.

    Engine will get plugged up where water should not go before being heavily de-greased before I even attempt to dig into it. Weather needs to get a little warmer...

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  7. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    tip the frame up on the back, be ready to catch nasty water that might be in the frame. then look at the frame where the side stand is welded. bang on it, make sure it's solid
     
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  8. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Yeahhhh already experienced that. Frame seems solid all around, just needs to be cleaned up.

    Been de-rusting parts all day
     
  9. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Krud Kutter: The Must for Rust
    works great with soaking. Dump it in the frame and let it sit.
     
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  10. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Dug into the swing arm and final drive. Bearings and seals look good on the swing arm, new grease and they will be good to go.

    Pulled the final drive out of the swing arm and noticed a ton of metal shards at the retainer...looks to me that the PO or someone cross threaded and just tore it all up...

    Removed all the shavings and turning the shaft seems very smooth, no noise or hangups. Not even sure if I would be able to remove the retainer if I tried...

    Final gear oil was as expected, dirty and clumpy. Some notes of metal but not full on shavings.

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  11. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Top end torn down today!

    Measured all the valve clearances, I have 4 that are out of spec and need replacing.

    Cam shafts looked really good with no signs of wear.

    I can tell the gasket went bad it some places with rust/corrosion build up. Pistons look good and I will measure the rings for specs.

    Seems there is a ton of cleaning to do for the gasket surfaces and bolts/studs. Are there plastic inserts/sleeves for the studs? Seems there is plastic around some of them which is now super brittle and breaking.

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  12. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Looks great. The shims are the 29mm type and there is a shim pool around here someplace. Those piston tops can be cleaned with a small brash brush and some B112 Chemtool. It will take that carbon off those in no time. No hard brushes, you don't want to hurt the top of those pistons.

    Thanks for pics and keep doing good work.
     
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  13. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Making slow but steady progress.

    Removed all the pistons and they have gone through multiple cleaning stages.

    Cylinder and cylinder head were soda blasted for carbon removal. No, the actual cylinders were not blasted. Outsides cleaned in prep for paint.

    All o-rings, gaskets and locating pins/dowels were removed and added to my list for Chacal.

    Took some time to take the studs out. Some help with heat and air gun made all the difference. Studs will be cleaned up on brass wheel, I believe there are replacement sheathing in one of the top end kits? I think this relates to the plastic on the studs. I'll let someone answer that.

    Currently working/struggling on getting the gaskets removed and surfaces cleaned. I let gasket remover sit overnight in hopes that it works.

    Looking at the cylinder head surface, its smooth but looks dirty still. My OCD wonders if this is normal or if it can be cleaned any further? No abrasives on the head surfaces, this I know.

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  14. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Looking good, keep up the great work.
     
  15. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    bolt sheathing comes in one of the chacal kits not all the bolts get it
     
  16. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    that head looks good to me
     
  17. Ian Vanore

    Ian Vanore Member

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    Just read through to this point - really enjoying the posts. Keep it up for us lurkers!
     
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  18. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Tools finally came in for me to work on the valves. All of them are now removed and will need to be cleaned before lapping. I will also remove the remaining carbon build up around the valve seats.

    In the meantime I was able to remove all remaining gasket material and primed the final drive for paint.

    Need to get the engine outside for a good de-grease scrub before priming and painting (rain rain go away).

    Is there a write up on replacing the valve seals? It's mentioned in the manual but no direction.

    Hopefully this week I can possibly finish up the valve head completely and begin painting it.

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  19. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Lap Valves - Yes
    Hone Cylinders - Yes
    Prime parts - Yes
    Paint Swing Arm - Yes

    Next steps are applying final paint color then working on areas that will be polished aluminum.
     

    Attached Files:

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  20. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Someone is taking there time and really enjoying this build. Great pics and thanks for sharing. Looks like you have a nice clean warm work area, that really helps too. Keep the updates coming.
     
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