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'82 Seca 750 Refresh Project: Now Scooby's Bike

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Nuch, Aug 24, 2019.

  1. Thomas Eubanks

    Thomas Eubanks New Member

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    Any more updates?
     
  2. Nuch

    Nuch Well-Known Member

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    No updates yet. When the weather breaks a bit, I'll pull her back out. I have other XJ's so I'm able to ride all year, but wrenching in the cold is a bit annoying for me.

    I'm convinced it's a mixture issue at this point. Lean? Rich? Who knows. She's definitely on the "to do" list in the spring and as planned, she's getting one of the spots on the trailer for Carb Clinic #13. I'm hoping all will be sorted out by the end of that day.

    In the meantime, there's little things to deal with. New throttle and clutch cables (or at least better/correct ones) and a few other details will be tended to. Every once in a while there's a grinding at the push of the starter button. Starter? Starter clutch? Not sure on that one either. It seems to be consistent with a hot engine. It's not every time and I've not found it to happen when cold.

    Will update more here when I know more.

    Cheers. It's Friday!
     
  3. scoobydew

    scoobydew Member

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    OK boys. The parts came back from the machine shop. No more broken bolts and screws. That means it's cleaning time to get ready for rebuild. As ya'll saw from my last post. My gaskets were baked on. So, I've been removing them with some aircraft remover. Which is safe for aluminum I assume since well.. it comes in aluminum case. But I noticed it was stripping a layer off some parts. I'm not sure what it is. I need to repaint the frame as well since it's a bit rusty. Aircraft remover works quite well. Do ya'll do the same?

    [​IMG]
     
  4. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    good stuff with the correct gloves
     
  5. scoobydew

    scoobydew Member

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    Is it good to use on crankcase and what not? I'm not sure if that's chrome paint being stripped off or not. Or something else
     
  6. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    works on the motor only chrome would be the nuts on the head as far as motor goes . silver paint and clear coat black paint. .
     
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  7. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Plese, please, please keep all posts about fixing your bike in one thread. The history of what you do really helps us all keep track of what's been done, and how to give you the best advice when new issues come up.
    Let me know which thread you prefer as your main, and I can merge them.
     
  8. scoobydew

    scoobydew Member

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    Ya of course. I didn't think I needed much help but as I got deeper and deeper into the engine, more issues popped up. You can merge it with Nuch's thread.
    https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/82-seca-750-refresh-project.125467/page-5

    It was his bike before I bought it.
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    What you are stripping off in the pic is the very tough, original, silver engine paint. Most of the XJs had silver-painted upper crankcases, heads, etc; if they weren't painted black. I use Aircraft Remover, very carefully, to remove the original finish from parts I want to polish or repaint. I say very carefully because, as you can see, it works almost too well.
     
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  10. scoobydew

    scoobydew Member

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    It looks like they also paint inside the crankcase? Is there any point to doing that or should I just strip the old paint on everything and only paint the outside
     
  11. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    No clue, but yes they do. If I pull the "oil pump cover" ("YICS" labeled cover) from the right side of my 550, which is just a blank naked area except for the crankshaft oil seal, it is obvious the upper crankcase is painted and the lower not. And that's an "internal "area. I suspect it's not actually paint paint, but some sort of high-heat coating that they may have dipped the parts in, hence it being inside and out.

    I'd leave it alone on the inner areas you can't see.
     
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  12. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    It used to be that any casting that might be even a little porous got a coating of Gyptol (red), and later on high-temp paint was used (mostly on aluminum). Don't strip any of what's inside of the cases just to be on the safe side.


    Thread merge complete. Redirect expires in a day (I goofed), so bookmark accordingly.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2020
  13. scoobydew

    scoobydew Member

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    So I'm stripping the paint from the frame cause it was rusting up. Figured I should recoat it. Been taking the paint off with aircraft remover. Which is a long and messy process. Issue now is getting the gel in those hard to reach spots and scrubbing off the paint. So I'm thinking of sandblasting the rest off? Is that a no go? Maybe the frame can't handle it. Maybe sodablast? How do ya'll remove the old paint from your frames?
     
  14. xHondaHack

    xHondaHack Active Member Premium Member

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    Well it can handle it, and the results will give you a great base to prime and paint.
    So here's a pic of the FZX after a professional media blast:
    upload_2020-9-30_22-18-2.jpeg

    Taped over the VIN sticker and the two blue plugs are to keep any blasting material from entering the coolant tube in the frame (you won't have to worry about that).
    Cost was $125. plus tax of course.
    American Dry Stripping did the job for me. Their in Milford, CT but you should be able to find someone reputable near you.

    Tony
     

    Attached Files:

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  15. scoobydew

    scoobydew Member

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    Hey guys.

    I took apart the brake calipers. The top part of the caliper has its grommets melted away. I don't know how that happened. I guess just from age and the calipers soaking up all the dirt from the road. Any fix for this? Is it a super important component of the caliper?
    20201005_095010.jpg 20201005_095015.jpg
     
  16. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  17. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    xj4ever sells them. they protect the pin that goes through them
     
  18. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Caliper needs to float and the pin needs to stay clean and greased to be able to float, so yes need to get the part.
     
  19. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The Yamaha "holding block caliper" is a rather unique bit of engineering. The piece those boots belong to is the 'holding block' that bolts to the fork leg. The caliper essentially hangs from a large pin that goes through those boots and the block. The caliper needs to be able to slide laterally in relation to the block to compensate for pad wear. Those metal plates are to protect the sliding surfaces from each other, do not lose or discard those. There is another, rectangular-headed pin that holds the pads in; the "sliding pin" is the connection between the caliper and the block. If experience is any guide, you will need to replace the sliding pin when rebuilding the caliper. I've usually had to pound them out due to being rusty/corroded, and they generally don't slide very well any more.
     
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  20. scoobydew

    scoobydew Member

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    Roger that. I'm trying to replace almost everything that looks a bit beaten. Costly but why half ass a rebuild
     

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