82 XJ650 Cafe Build

I've still got the carbs off for some percussive maintenance but other than that everything else is falling into place

 

I know that carbs can get on your nerves, but beating on them won't do any good.

 

Ok so I've purposely not been posting anything about problems with my carbs to avoid the pod filter debate but I'm stumped so here it goes.... Pod filters and 4-1 open exhaust is my setup. Currently at 116 main jets and 40 pilots, mixture screws at 2 1/4 turns out. It'll start up and idle good, occasionally the idle will hang when you rev it up some. I took it out on the road for the first time yesterday and when I first started out in first gear it's acting like its starving for gas, no power. After a few minutes it cleared up and ran great, it actually surprised me how fast it was. I got stopped at a red light and the idle hung way up around 4k and then acted like it had before with no power. Any ideas? I'm stumped, I pulled my plugs and they were all black, that was after tinkering with it some at idle trying to get it going again. It seems to have symptoms of rich and lean mixture?

 

hanging idle can be caused by the carbs being out of sync. you really should get a color tune to help set the idle mixture too.

FU

 

Happy Friday the 13th y'all

 

oh! no! pm me I have a couple extras laying around.

FU

 

Ever get that carb replaced?

 

I did, I bought a new old rack from a salvage yard that are super clean on the inside. Between studying for my NREMT test and moving though I haven't worked on the bike in a while. Hoping to put the new rack on next week and see what happens.

 

I put about 30 miles on it today! It's been a long two years but I'm stoked on how it's come together. Big shout out to Len for all the parts and all the advice on carbs! After chasing demons with rejetting it turned out that once I got the fuel levels wet set in spec, removed the shims from the needles, and got a good vacuum sync on the carbs that I ended up being dead on with the jets that were originally in the carbs when I got the bike lol. Once I'm 100% happy with how it's running I will post the specs as a "pod filter success story." Other than that I still have some small detail work to do, I plan on taking lots of photos of the finished product once it gets there!

 

I've been having too much fun riding around town to get more pictures! I've got some little details to tweak but it's there! She's a screamer

 

Hey guys question.... I've got a problem in my charging system somewhere. My buddy tested the stator and it tested ok. I tested my regulator box yesterday according to the Electrical FAQ write up. My red wire coming from regulator had good high voltage but the green wire was reading .54v at idle and didn't budge when I rev the motor. The spec according to the write up for the green wire is 1.8v at idle and 10-11v when revved. Could this most likely be my problem and is there a way to test before buying a new regulator?

 

Process of elimination. Test the entire charging system. If everything else test good that's the problem. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

 

If the stator output is OK, but the regulator output is not OK, then you have found your problem.

 

Also double check ground wires

 

The low voltage on the green wire is an indication that the regulator has sensed a low output and is trying to increase the output voltage by increasing the current (excitation) through the rotor. However, if the brushes, rotor or wiring are causing an open circuit, then no excitation and consequently no output. In a working system, the green wire voltage increases as the speed of the engine increases to reduce the excitation and consequently the voltage output.

A somewhat simple test on the brushes / rotor to check for excitation and no open circuit:
Turn the key on while holding a thin feeler gauge about 1/2 inch from the AC Generator cover. If the circuit is complete and current is flowing through the rotor a magnetic field will occur pulling the feeler gauge toward the rotor cover.

How did your buddy check the stator? Did he actually measure the voltage output or did he just do the continuity check?

 

You are an amazing person............

 

Yeah he measured voltage on each white wire coming from stator before they plug into the harness

 

Well, that would be a good indication of the AC Generator and the IC Regulator performing as they should. The next part of the process would be the rectifier portion of the Reg/Rect Assembly. If the stator output voltages are correct, then the rectifier should turn the AC Generator output into a DC voltage to charge the battery... the 14.5V +/-.3V.

The shop manual has a good test for checking the diodes in the Reg/Rect. The only part it leaves out is to do it as a stand alone unit, otherwise you may get some false readings. Also, much easier with an analog meter if you have one, but a regular DMM will work if it has the diode setting.

Also re-read some of the post, and it appears you were having wiring issues early on. It would be prudent to verify the output of the regulator is wired correctly - the red and black wires. Perhaps during your wiring process the rectifier output was not connected as it should be, which is equivalent to running it with the battery disconnected. The result of that is an overvoltage condition from no load and that will damage the rectifiers in the Reg/Rect Assembly as noted in the FSM.

 

I'm definitely weak on doing the electrical system but I'm learning more and more as I go along. The regulator is definitely hooked up correctly though, the original connections had done corrosion problems so the plug was taken out of play and each wire had new connectors soldered on and heat shrank. The multimeter I have access to does not have the diode setting on it so I wasn't sure how to test that portion of the regulator box. The only portion I was able to test was the voltage on the red and green wires. I have also gone back over all my grounds and tested resistance and they all checked out, even ran some extra grounds and didn't change anything. Originally thought that was the problem.
The only other wiring problem I ever had was a short in the connection for the headlight "tail" but that caused a complete power loss to the whole bike until it was corrected.
I appreciate the advice and direction, I thought the carbs were tedious until I dove off into wiring!