85 Maxim X - On going restoration - Pic & Questions

The handle bars are Renthal "Street Fighters" that I also added 15mm risers to. I also narrowed them a half inch each side and added bar end weights.

For the paint, I used Rustoleum Engine Enamel in Gloss Black. For the cylinder fins and valve cover I used the semi-gloss and topped it off with a ceramic clear made for brake calipers.

Cutlass-Your bike looks awesome!

 

Just a seat, but its original and it is in GREAT shape. $100 bones.

and would anyone be able to post photo's of there ignition lock with a ruler/tape measure infront of it? Mine has no sticker

 

Seems like a fair price for a nice seat set.

I can take a picture of the switch for you, but I want to understand what you're looking for. You say you have no sticker?

 

Well.. There was a round sticker around the keyhole, this is gone and there is a small gap/hole looking inside the compartment where the tumbler is...

Hope it is not broken!

:/

 

It's not broken, just designed that way.



You will need the original sticker (aluminum backing) or a very thin washer to support a new sticker available through Chacal. Let me know if you need a washer and I'll try to help you out.

 

HondaHack - I don't have the washer I'm sitting on the fence about ordering the spin on oil filter adapter... Thanks for the tip on where to get it. Everything is adding up quick in the home $trech.


For now.. Wheels on. (Was thinking of putting the engine in first and then the wheels but the engine requires more paint stripping which I must do outdoors, and the weather has not been co-operating. Putting the wheels on also lets me figure out what parts are missing/etc for correct fitment.

 

OH!!

Bit of good news from the seat! The OEM tools and box were still fitted to the bottom... Had NO idea this was how they were kept!

 

Bike is shaping up nice!

I've stuck with the standard filter arrangement on my bikes. Just my preference I suppose, as I'd rather spend my $
on upgrades that make it go faster or make it safer.

PM me with your address and I'll send you the washer for the ignition switch.

Tony

 

xHondaHack: rrr ummm you were kind enough to send me info about painting your engine... I've lost it, can you resend?

Here is my engine actually I made another attempt to strip after this. It has been soooo difficult to get the paint off... How much paint did you strip... or did you?

 

Well, I did it in stages. First blocked off all the passages (I did have the clutch, valve cover and left side covers on), and degreased the crap out of it. Then I went to work with assorted wire brushes and sandpaper, but didn't use any paint stripper. Degreased it again, then made sure it was as dry and clean as possible.

Next up I applied Rustoleum engine enamel in low gloss/flat black in two light coats. Then used Rustoleum engine enamel in gloss black for a good finish and shine for the top coat. Both are 500 degree paints and seem to be holding up well.

What I'm disappointed in is the fact that I clear coated the valve cover with the Eastwood's Diamond clear and it has yellowed slightly. Planning on doing it over when I do the next valve adjustment. I will now use the Ceramic Caliper clear on any engine/heat stressed part from now on.

 

Maxim-X valve train is crazy compared to other XJs!

 

Well here is my attempt at painting the engine with some help from friends and of course my forum friends too! (Working on the valves so not pretty red cover yet).

Paint is eastwood ceramic engine paint 650 degree... Looks good buy jury is out on longevity. I was going to do spray can as per HondaHack but.. I had bought this paint late last year and had spent the money already.

 

Looks awesome! You should have no problem with the durability of the Eastwood engine paint.

I made the mistake of using the standard clear (300 degree I believe) from Eastwood on the valve cover. It turned slightly yellow with the heat so I'll have to redo it next time I do a valve adjustment.

 

wow.. that's just beautiful. Nice work!

 

Busy day. Fight another bikes carbs... But managed to get the engine in.

 

Looks great I tried to make mine my own also. Where you painted all the silver so it matched each other i polished mine and put a chrome rear drum off a virago just to be different. I sanded all the casting marks out of the crank covers and polished them also.
Here is a link to mine i still have not finished been working on other projects space is tight. Spent the money i had for the new garage mower died 2k to replace dogs got sick another $700 Probably will finish fall or winter.
http://s1366.photobucket.com/user/daves ... sort=6&o=0

 

Very good and detailed work, well done!

 

Nice! Getting it to this point helps motivate you to get it done and start riding.

So I take it you got your valve clearances all set? And, did you get the ignition sticker put on with the washer I sent?

 

XHondaHack: No the washer has not made it... I've lost other post recently too... Cannot say Canada post is doing to well these days!


Trouble: Bike is running... However, I have electrical gremlins.

There is no headlight, gauge lights, or RPMs.
There is neutral safety light, brake light, signal lights.
I believe there is charging too.

Carbs: The right side carb overfloor is spilling out... DOes this this mean one of the two right hand carbs has a float bowl issue or... any of them?

Tought day

 

Not sure why the mail just disappears? Maybe I had your address wrong?

On the wiring issue, you'll have to check the basics. Grounds, connections for corrosion, power where it's supposed to flow and when, fuses, bulbs then components and relays. A manual and a wiring diagram will be needed to help you troubleshoot the issues. I have to ask; the ground terminal (on the wiring harness) that connects to the thermostat housing bolt is connected and clean right?

On the carbs, sounds like a float needle got stuck. I had an issue with one of my "New" ones (which I found when wet setting the floats). Also, check your o-rings between the carbs on the fuel tubes are not leaking, especially the fuel feed T. Make sure you can pinpoint where it's coming from, before you put them back on.