A new project, the abandoned xj650RJ

Well... just like any project there are surprises waiting for me around the corner. Since I am at home I decided to take the carbs apart and figure out what is inside and how "the magic" happens.

After having breakfast and saving the egg plastic container as parts organizer I started taking things off, in what seemed to me the right order.

To my surprise two of the four floats were stuck, movement.. the third one was a bit loose but not totally free, the fourth one was totally free. That was the worst one. I realized that the post where the floats attach to the rack has been "fixed" before. Not really, it was linda set in place but does not seem like a great fix.

So my question is, is there a way to actually solder this little post or is this rack doomed and I should wait for the donor bike and hope that the carbs are in better shape?



And the great mechanic who "fixed" this...



I was really excited about getting this going

 

The RACK isn't doomed, you just need a replacement carb body. If it's that gnarly, it's going to likely need to come completely apart for new throttle shaft seals anyway.

Or, make that your "parts" rack.

 

Oooooh, Mommy.....look at the pretty green colors! It looks like springtime!

Hey Eco..........yes it's possible to repair--you need to find someone that is an excellent machinist. The post can be eliminated, the broken surface machined flat, then a covetail is cut, then a new aluminum post is machined and made to fit. The hole for the float pin must be exact, and then you'll be all set. By the time you do that, hopefully you've not paid too much because your machinist is hopefully a friend who won't soak you.

Otherwise, your best bet is to clean the rest of the carbs and when the other bike arrives, you can take that rack and re-do it, OR open that rack and find out if there is a broken carb there, too. Either way, unless the broken carb happens to be the same one, you'll be set after some work.

Swap out the carb body that you need,and rebuild the set, or rebuild the donor bike set.

Now, if the donor bike rack is a good rack, let me know and I may still have a carb body for you, depending on which body you need. There's three different ones on YOUR rack. #1, #2/#3, and #4. Let me know what you need, and I'll take a look. I'm not going to break a good rack, but who knows what is in the parts racks...............

Dave F

 

Thanks a lot guys. I will keep cleaning all the parts on this rack and will break it to give it a great clean.

I am hoping that the parts bike has carbs in good shape so I can rebuild that one as well.

Dave, let me know if you have a spare carb body to replace the one that is limping on my rack(I believe is #4). I will send you the shim valve back tomorrow.

I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate all your help.

 

I guess this happens more often than I would've thought. I almost bought a rack for parts just to find out upon further inspection of the pictures that the exact same part was broken on this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170971610503?it ... 23&vxp=mtr

When I told my buddy that I may have this bike running by the summer I think I took a good guess of how long this whole project was going to take, especially with all the surprises.

 

Ejpt, I have decided that I am going to end up with almost enough parts to put two bikes together so the original one on this thread is not going to look stock. The donor bike will turn into a stock 650rj once I find a frame (or bond this one).
Here is what I am planning for the current bike:

 

Eco,

This one's going to be a good. Keep it up.

Gary

 

Eco, it's not an uncommon problem with the carbs........reason:

The float towers are not a structurally strong part. If the float pin is sticky, people tend to get a hammer and try to drive it out. One shot with a hammer might move the pin in one tower and the other tower breaks and the pin is now still stuck in a tower that is still stuck to the end of the float pin.

A safer wayt to do it is to make sure to support the float tower before attempting to drive the pin out. I put it against the edge of my table saw and then carefully line up a very thin nail punch. A few really light taps usually does the job.

I'll take a look and see if I have an extra #4 tomorrow when I get home.

Dave Fox

 

I am wondering if the gear puller from my remote control planes will fit over the tower to push the pins.. two of the pins I have seem to be stuck big time and that is why the floats are frozen as well. if it works this may be the safest way to free up the pins.

Here is a picture of the tool:

 

Before trying to force those remaining float pins out. Soak them good with carb cleaner, or penetrating oil (Kroil, PBblaster). Then let then sit for a while ti loosen up the dried up gunk that is locking the pins in place.

That deffinately is the #4 carb body in the pic above.

Ghost

 

You''ll get the float pins loose before that even fits.

I do not have a good #4 carb body.

However, even if the pins a stuck, soak them down with Kroil and/or PB Blaster. I have made mixes of PB, Kroil, and carb spray, and while keeping everything really wet I start trying to get the float to move with careful wiggling. Once I can free up the float, I can get the pin out. Sometimes the pin will start to rotate in the towers as you move the float. That indicates that the towers are not stuck now, but the center of the float still is. Just leep working at it, till things seem loose. Now, use the super fine nail punch, and don't forget to support the tower. Reminder......it's obvious, but easy to not think about---make sure that you are supporting the tower that has the pin head against it and drive from the opposite end. Don't try and drive the pin's head through. AGain, easy mistake..................

Sometimes I find that I have to get the pin to move out just a hair, then turn it over and tap it back in. Doing that a few times helps get the fluid solutions to work horizontally into the joints as well. Go SLOW and take your time. You'll be fine as long as you don't rush, get impatient, or heavy-handed.



Dave F

 

I had very good results with a solution 50-50% acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) to loosen a wide variety of things. It is very fluid so it actually penetrates easily wherever it is physically possible, but also a bit "oily" so it lubricates the parts.. Only problem is you have to store it in a tight glass or a metal container, acetone is volatile and would melt plastics.

 

That would do it too.

Sorry, Mighost, didnt' see you had already said all that!!

Dave F

 

Eco
Do not go looking for carbs just yet.

Let me look at my spare 750 racks this weekend to see if I have a rebuildable rack. We might just be able to take care of the broken carb, and the jetting issue at the same time.

Ghost

 

No problem Dave.

I think that I slid it in as you were still typing. :lol:

Ghost

 

Thanks a lot man, I truly appreciate it since I am running out of $ for the time being on this project. I can't wait to return the favor to all the forum members.

Wait, I do have a friend who brews his own beer and is always looking for "beta" testers

 

Hey Eco....while YOU'RE looking at parts, can you check to see kf you happen to have an extra LEFT side standing handle? I was sent a nice left handle, picked up a right handle on ebay, and when I went to put them together it turns out my left handle was already a right handle.

So....I have two rights, still need a left. If you have an extra left and need a right, we could swap................. I also have my gauge cluster back together/restored now, so have some extra gauge stuff, too...

Dave F

 

The parts bike will not be here until Friday next week, I believe that one has the side standing handles but the one I am working on does not. I am talking to a guy on CL that may be sending me a set of side panels and seat for close to nothing. His bike does have the side standing handles and he is going to chop it. I will ask for them and I will keep you posted.

 

What's really cool about this whole thing is that the end result will be at least three (Dave's, mine, and the Dragon Warrior's) XJ650Rs back on the road, and as ambitious as Eco is maybe even a fourth. Plus 'Kaz just got his near done, so we can count that one.

Don't EVEN start counting successfully recommissioned 550s...

Now what was that nonsense about a '77 Suzuki? 8O

 

Master Shifu,

I would not even think about that Suzuki. If I feel like working on another bike after this (maybe these) XJ's it would be something like a 1975 Xs650, they look really cool.

Once we are done we should get together and compare notes, and bikes... by the location it sounds like a mid point maybe somewhere in Ohio