Adding a SECA 650 back to my collection...

Merry Christmas!!! I got an early present today!!!!

SECA 650 Frame back from the local powder coater!!
(The coater provided this nice publicity photo he plans to use on his web-site)


I'm incredibly stoked and want to start putting it all back together RIGHT NOW! Unfortunately, there's too much XMas Shopping to complete and a business trip on Monday to prepare for.

I may get to sneak in a little time with the SECA but the motor is still in pieces with the head still stripped down without valves installed & etc. I've gotta put the motor back together before I start messing with the "New" frame.


Without any doubt, this will be the finest RESTORATION project of the many Yamaha motorcycles I've brought back from the brink of death. Although not perfect, the area of frame repair on the left side looks really good. The kickstands, swingarm, and brake stay were also coated. I'm planning of giving this coater the headlamp mount and possibly a few other small bits to coat as well. This machine will absolutely be an active participant in the Vintage Yamaha Rally in Stecoah next year!!!

I will be in need of a couple "Tid-Bits" including some decent looking chrome lift handles (if I can find any). I'll likely post up a small list of the "Tid-Bits" needed to complete the project in the Wanted Section.

I hope everyone has a great holiday! Obviously, motorcycles are not the #1 topic for most of us this time of year......

Sincerely,
KURT

 

Pretty! If that doesn't motivate you, nothing will. "Cancel Christmas, I'll be in the shop!"

 

I hope that photo was taken after all the plugs were taken out of the threaded bosses. Cleaning powdercoat from threads is a PITA.
Pretty frame.

 

Thanks k-moe,

The coater did a pretty great job of plugging all the holes before he coated it. I was amazed he has even noticed the hole in the mount for the side stand safety switch plunger.
However, he didn't cover the steering neck. I will have to remove the coating in the bearing recesses to get the steering neck bearings back in successfully.

Otherwise, the parts look fantastic he didn't miss any small crevice or slightly hidden spot, everywhere has a beautiful black gloss.
Kurt

 

It looks great! That's an outstanding job on the frame repair.

 

Ugh, facepalm. The biggest holes in the entire frame didn't get covered!

 

Might have been wise to leave the old races in place to prevent this. I hope you're able to chip it out of there.

 

That’s exactly what I did. Steering and swing arm.

 

It's going to take a Dremel, and a careful hand.

 

Or chemical.....just dissolve it

 

Merry Christmas to All!

Thanks Hogfiddles!........ A little MEK on a Q-tip, a small piece of scotchbrite, a good bit of scrubbing, DONE! Steering stem is clear for the bearings!

Although most are enjoying the Christmas Holiday with family and friends and worrying little about motorcycles, I'm spending a bunch of time (between visitors) making progress with the rebuild.

Completed the basic checks and got the motor back together.

• TDC checked out properly and the marker agrees with the dial indicator.
• A mild valve lapping showed good results (before & after shown).
• New valve seals installed
• Valve clearance all checked and only one valve (E4) needed a 275 vs the original 270
• Skipping the alternator, starter, and etc to keep the weight down for the install.

Now.......I've got to chase down all the nuts, bolts, etc. Normally, I'm ultra-organized but the garage is getting a little crowed with Yamahas and I've dispersed all the parts here, there, and everywhere. If I can find a few missing bolts I'll get the neighbor and my son to help me put the motor in the frame.

Since the wiring harness is completely out there is no better time than now to clean all the connectors..... that's gonna take some time.

Hope you are all enjoying your holiday! I am!

Sincerely,
KURT

P.S. If you're interested in Attending the Vintage Yamaha Rally - REGISTER WITH IRON HORSE NOW!!!!

 

Michigan Motorcycle Junkyard found.
Last week, I was on a business trip to Northern Michigan. Found a motorcycle junk yard within two miles of the Hampton Inn I was staying at...


Unfortunately, there's not much left of this ole' girl........ Somewhere (buried in the snow) the owner thinks there is another one of these. I couldn't find it and time was limited.

For those in at region, the owner was a real nice guy and I suspect his prices would be reasonable. Quite a few Yamaha's in this yard.
Snowmobile & Motorcycle Salvage, Inc.
4101 E. River Road
Mt. Pleasant, Michigan 48858
989-772-3442

 

Ooooh, it has a pine needle box!

 

XJ Bikes Friends,
Although the SECA is far from restored and far from complete.... The engine rebuild was completely successful!

Bike started on the first push of the starter and ran pretty good. Unfortunately, I've got a stuck #3 float so the carbs gotta' come out again....Not a big deal...

Very Very Happy New Year the bike is coming along.....One more rescued from the garbage heap!


Movies are pretty crappy but ya' can sort of hear that characteristic Jet Fighter sound of the SECA mill.....
Lots of oil in the cylinders from the ring job and rebuild.......



KURT

 

I'd like just a corner of your garage to work in! Mine looks more like the Michigan junkyard, only not as warm!

 

Kosel,
Thank you.... I think. Honestly, it is very nice in many ways, but its not as wide open and roomy as I would like. I think I have too many motorcycles (if that's possible ?) There's actually another XS11 bike-in-process outside under a bike cover.

Thank you, and everyone else also, for keeping any eye on my progress with this machine...... Never had my original '82 SECA apart and don't have even one photo of it. My expertise, if any, revolves primarily around the XS/XJ1100. Catch me if I screw up as I want to make this as close as possible to a "RESTORATION" vs. a Resto-Mod.

Sincerely,
KURT

 

RE: The never (or very rarely) performed important routine maintenance item!

XJ Folks,
Now that I am certain the motor is good it's time to address all the other stuff, and there is a bunch of it. My SECA's forks are pitted & rusty so the seals will get munched in a mile or two. I managed to get a good deal on a nice set from Evil-Bay and I'm starting the process of cleaning them, refilling them properly, and tossing the pitted ones.

As the owner of several Vintage Yamaha's I've yet to acquire a single bike where the fork oil appeared to have been even moderately well maintained. These old girls will never handle like an R1, R6 or an FJR with their OEM equipment but they sure as heck feel nicer riding them and they will last longer when the components are properly maintained!

The photo shows how much "Oil" (AKA MUDD!) was removed from FOUR (2-Pair) of XJ650RJ forks. Wholly cow! Does ANYONE maintain these units?


Now, some important questions I hope ya'll can answer:

• How much oil are ya'll XJ650RJ riders running in your tubes?
• The manual I have indicates 230ml and that sounds about right?
• Are you using 10 or 15? A combination?
• What was the stock oil weight? My manual(s) do not indicate.

Typically, I run about 20ml higher than spec on all of my XS11's and use 10w as that's provided the best overall performance.....

Thanks in advance for any information or comments.
Kurt

 

No.

1982 XJ650RJ Seca: 236cc or 7.98 fluid ounces. 10W fork oil. Fork oil level is specified as 400mm (15.75") below the top of the tube without the spring installed, forks fully collapsed.

10W fork oil.

 

Your SECA fork lowers are not hard anodized. Therefore, as the forks work up and down, the lowers wear. This suspends particles of aluminum in the oil, and thus, increases wear significantly. IMHO, the recommended 10,000 mile oil change interval is too long. 7,500 is better.

With stock forks, I stick with 10W oil. It works well.

My XS11 is fitted with RaceTech upgrades. The oil level in them is the recommended (by RaceTech) 130 mm from the top with the forks collapsed and the springs removed. I put my XS650 to this oil level with the stock forks. I like it. The bumps get soaked up and less dive when I grab the brake.

 

Just when you think you've seen it all.....



I found this in the forks which came with the bike..... I have no idea what the P.O. of this bike thought this would accomplish? Hack the spring and then put a piece of PVC pipe in here?
Really? Just goes to show...... gotta check EVERYTHING from the "Notorious P.O."

Forks are done..... time to move on to the front brakes and some beautiful new SS Lines from CHACAL!!!!


Kurt

 

The PVC is a spacer. Some aftermarket springs aren't a perfect fit.

 

Those appear to be progressively wound springs, and they are shorter than the stock springs:

Inner Tube Fork Springs:

HCP9436 Aftermarket front suspension COIL SPRINGS, one pair does both forks. For all XJ650 models. Front spring spacers are not included with these springs, and you'll need to note the following changes needed by model when installing them. NOTE: springs should be installed with the tighter (more-closely spaced together) coils towards the top of the fork tube.
$


1980-81 XJ650 Maxim or Midnight Maxim models will need the installation of an HCP8239 spring seat (one for each spring) and the fabrication of a 46.40mm long spacer when replacing stock springs. You can use the HCP8284 spring spacer tube (stock for 1982-83 XJ650 Maxim models) and cut it down to the proper length; one tube will provide enough material to do both springs and fork tubes…..or you can order the HCP21019 spacers tubes which are already cut to the correct length. NOTE: due to the difference in size of this spring versus stock springs, you will need to use approximately 24 cc's more fork oil (for a total of 286cc's per tube) when installing these springs and using the stock thin-wall metal spacer tubes as recommended above. The use of other type of spacers (thick-wall PVC pipe, for instance) will change this recommended fork oil volume by an unknown amount.


1982-83 XJ650 Maxim will require the stock spacers to be shortened to 88.90mm (or you can order the HCP21020 spacers tubes which are already cut to the correct length), and the re-use the original spring seats. NOTE: due to the difference in size of this spring versus stock springs, you will need to use approximately 15 cc's more fork oil (for a total of 235cc's per tube) when installing these springs and using the modified stock thin-wall metal spacer tubes as recommended above. The use of other type of spacers (thick-wall PVC pipe, for instance) will change this recommended fork oil volume by an unknown amount.


1982 XJ650RJ Seca and all XJ650 Euro models will need the installation of an HCP8239 spring seat (one for each spring) and the fabrication of a 36.40mm long spacer when replacing stock springs, and the re-use the original spring seats. For a more precise feel, use only a 12.50mm spacer:

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/pdf/saving old standards.pdf

You can use the HCP8284 spring spacer tube (stock for 1982-83 XJ650 Maxim models) and cut it down to the proper length; one tube will provide enough material to do both springs and fork tubes…..or you can order the HCP21021 spacers tubes which are already cut to the correct length. NOTE: due to the difference in size of this spring versus stock springs, you will need to use approximately 7 cc's more fork oil (for a total of 243cc's per tube) when installing these springs and using the modified stock thin-wall metal spacer tubes as recommended above. The use of other type of spacers (thick-wall PVC pipe, for instance) will change this recommended fork oil volume by an unknown amount.

 

My bet is that the PO knew what he was doing, and installed a good set of springs at some point when the originals had worn out. I don't see a problem

 

--well, looks look others got the answer in already... didn't read the rest before I hit reply

 

XJ Folks,
Thanks for the update on what these were, they've been removed in favor of OEM components from the newly purchased set. Based on the overall condition of this bike and it's clearly inadequate maintenance, it looked a good bit like a rig job. For some reason the P.O. had also lathered up the fork caps and these spacers with black RTV making me all the more suspicious of this PVC pipe.

I've heard many of the arguments at the bike rallies about: Stock Springs vs. Progressive Springs vs. Emulators. I've take the path of 100% properly maintained and functional O.E.M. components, if the static ride height is not correct to OEM spec I'll replace the springs. I have "Tinkered" a little with oil quantity/level and found slight volume increases eliminate SOME of the typical slamming that can occur at the last few millimeters of travel with these vintage OEM fork designs on my XS1100's and my XJ550. But, I honestly don't really push any of my older bikes that hard. I enjoy them as cruisers. When I want to take the twisties at high speed I break out the FJR.

My GUESS is that the P.O. installed these thinking he was getting some enormous performance boost by installing these springs. Obviously, the P.O. just popped the tops off the forks and stuffed them in there. The overall condition of the internals were absolutely filthy, there was NO oil in them, and the seals were shot from a complete lack of lubricant and age. There is a good chance the P.O. might have gained something slightly better than O.E.M. performance if he had performed the "Upgrade" properly by cleaning the forks, replacing the seals, and maintaining the oil in them (in concert with the new springs). If the P.O. really knew what he was doing, full disassembly and cleaning of the forks would have been first on the list of things to do.

Kurt

 

Increasing the fork oil level increases the resistance at the end of travel, so it's good for braking, IMHO. The stock springs that you showed me are progressive wound. They are a good one size fits all option. I think that's why manufacturers use it. Straight rate springs should be chosen based on your weight and riding style. They will be required if you go to emulators.

FWIW, my emulator equipped bike has pretty long aluminum spacers in it. The custom springs aren't half the length of OEM.

Also, too much oil in the fork will lock them up and cause seal failure. 130 mm from the top is what I run and it's fine.

 

I weigh 220 lbs and stock fork springs just don't cut it for me.
Stiffer fork springs are the most dramatic handling upgrade I've experienced. Regardless of your weight I fully recommend stiffer springs.

 

I do too. But, not everyone agrees. This is especially true for two-up riding. I have an XS1100 set to 35 mm laden sag. I can usually get most of it back cranking in preload on the rear shocks as my fat a$$ has no preload cranked in.

 

XJ Friends,
Went through the front brakes yesterday and installed a BEAUTIFUL new set of S.S. Brake Lines from Chacal. These are ABSOLUTELY PERFECT and worth every penny the fit and finish are great. In addition, unlike other brands, there are actually DIRECTIONS (which I always read). My brakes are now working perfectly after cleaning all the slime out of the system and completely flushing everything.


Now here's a one-time good deal for someone (if anyone is interested.......)
One of the P.O.s of this bike had already installed SS brake lines on this machine (see pic below). They are not really as nice as Chacal's and do not have the clear protective covering which makes keeping them clean a little bit of a pain in the butt. They look similar to the Russel's I have on one of my XS11's. Aside from being a little dirty, they show no signs of damage in any way. I purchased mine for the SECA from Chacal before I had even gained possession of the bike. I possibly would not have changed them had I known the bike already had a decent set. These would certainly be a safety and performance improvement for someone running "Vintage" rubber lines from the 80's (I see 30+ year old OEM rubber lines on bikes at the Rallies all the time ). If anyone wants this set for their XJ650RJ please respond to this thread, and then PM me your name and a mailing address, First to respond gets 'em (yes. FREE).



Very Sincerely,
KURT

 

Responding......

 

The instructions and assistance provided by Chacal for his parts make buying parts from him worth invaluable, not to mention it is the correct fit part.

I am ashamed to admit I went 18,000 miles and 20+ years between fork oil changes. When I did it a couple summers ago, it came out like tar, and STANK.

Simply changing the oil to straight 10w made a big difference in the ride after all these years.

 

That smell is like no other at least to me. I have been around lots of worldly smells and that old burnt nasty fork is bad.

 

"wordly smells"
I like it. Sounds like what they clean up Sunday morning at the red house over yonder.

 

XJBikes Folks,
It's been a while since I made any REAL progress on the SECA. This week was the exception and there's still SUNDAY!

First, I got a whole bag of Goodies from Len and the carbs have absolutely EVERYTHING NEW! I don't know where he finds all these bits and pieces but everything was top notch and unlike most re-sellers you actually get some directions from a guy that knows these bikes. The SECA ran nice and I was able to get the synchronization done too.... Fuel levels are a little out of spec so I got to pull them again and adjust it down a little and then re-check the sync... Otherwise, PERFECT!

Today it felt like spring in ATL with temps a degree or two short of 80! Perfect day to paint! So, the refurbished tank from the Junk Yard got a long over coat of PPG (JAU - Single Stage). Looks pretty good but I think the HUE is a little on the brighter side of the OEM color, flake level seems identical. Once all the pieces are done and painted I don't believe anyone will notice the SLIGHT difference. At about $30/pint for the pigment (+Reducer, +Hardener, Etc.) I'll live with the very slight variation from Yamaha's original.

I also decided to repair the original tank. Poured a gallon of Acetone in there and it did a pretty great job of dissolving the poorly installed liner. I brazed up the perforations and will install a POR15 liner kit after another rinse with clean Acetone. Not sure it makes much sense spending time on a second tank since the Junk Yard tank is looking great.....But it's not of any value whatsoever as a spare or otherwise in non-useable leaky condition.



Kurt

 

Looking good!

What's that under the cover?

 

Wow!!!!! Looks good!

 

Just another one of my many toys ..... 1982 Chevrolet z-28

 

Big SECA Update Today!

A day or so back I received my order from Germany..... a SECA oil cooler from a Junk Yard in Germany.


It wasn't exactly cheap.... but not too bad, I don't think . Maybe it's better I don't know the Dollar-to-Euro conversion!
Obviously, this was not OEM in the U.S. But, driving in the Hot-Lanta region this is a good option to install!

I also received a set of replacement Carb Hats from Chacal at XJBikes.... Darn these bring a big smile to a guys face!!! WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT!

Perfect Fit. Perfect Finish. FANTASTIC! Thanks Len! Great Product!

XJ650 Maxim 1 Donor Bike
On top of all these other great goodies.... I grabbed a "Parts Bike" XJ650Maxim from over in 'Bama. I was hopeful to be able to use a couple parts on my XJ550, a few parts and back-ups for the SECA (since the engine configuration is the same), but the bike was not as good as I had hoped it would be.

The tank looks like swiss cheese on the bottom and a previous owner was apparently trying to do a valve adjustment. There is strong evidence he used a vice grip on the bolts on the cam sprockets.... DUH!. He also removed all the cam caps and nuts for some reason...... Obviously, not sure of the condition of the Top End. Hopefully, he didn't bend any valves or punch one into a pistons. Regardless, the bike will provide a few replacement parts and a couple of good spares. For $125..... It was worth the risk. I've already pulled the motor stripped a lot of parts, once I have what I need I'll kick the bones to the curb......



I hadn't been able to do too much lately due to work demands but we took a good step forward today....

KURT

 

did the maxim come with an exhaust? you will like this. someone in germany is looking for a maxim 650 exhaust.looked at photo i see one but do not know if he can use a 4 to 1

do you want to sell that yamaha fork Badge? I need one for my 83 750 maxim.

 

The exhaust is worthless. Looks like the P.O. went for a motocross off road ride with it. Two center tubes smashed bad and small holes too. I thought about it as man-cave wall art but its no good for that either.....

The badge is garbage, sun burned and cracked. I would have been happy to GIVE it to you, but it's not worth the value of a stamp to mail it.

 

Oh, is that all?

 

Another awesome rebuild Kurt..I've always liked these bikes...It looks pretty damn good already..At the rate you're going you're gonna need a 2nd garage or an addition to the existing space..it was crowded 2 yrs ago when we had Swampthing there...have fun..Look forward to seeing y'all at the Vintage Yamaha Rally in Sept...

 

The conversion rate to Euros is pretty good at the moment. You saved about 20%.

 

Sunday seems to be SECA day lately.....

Rebuilt the carbs to pristine condition thanks to piles of parts from Chacal ....

But they don't work so well if the floats are set higher than the top of the bowls.... Tends to run a little rich .

I have a stand (of sorts) I use to check my 1100 carbs but the SECA Hitachi's are so much smaller it required a bit of quickie re-fabrication to get it working with them. The bride is completely "unhappy" (replace with a more colorful word) as I decided to do this inside.... WHOLE house smells like regular unleaded. DUH!

Hopefully, I can get these down into spec and the fans will get the smell out....Darn that was dumb...



Kurt

 

hope you have a fire extinguisher at your side.. buy a tent and do it out doors !
if you set the fuel levels on each carb when out of the rack it is easier.you just need i holder. rubber plumbing pipe connectors work or a vise.
then when you get the first one set you can measure float height set the next one dry then wet set to confirm and adjust.

I was over this guys house this weekend he had a motor on the kitchen island one on the dining room table and his 4 wheeler in the living room.

 

just looked at your photo 2 bikes in the house. use the 2 carb boots attach to a piece of plywood and you have a base to hook to your carb stand

 

Unlikely he's cohabitating with a woman. I have a couple of friends who are committed to living single. They bring whatever they want into the house.

 

correct on that

 

SECA Sunday Again.....

Yesterday I picked up my seat from the upholstery guy......

This saddle cover was purchased from Chacal and appears to be a perfect reproduction of the original. I wasn't comfortable trying the install myself so I took the new saddle cover to an experienced local upholstery guy. He did a really nice job getting this installed properly.

I finally got all the float levels correct but carb synchronization is proving extremely difficult. I can get 1->2 equal and 4->3 equal but I get no response to bringing the pairs together. These sure don't act the same as the Mikuni's on my 1100's! I'm gonna set her aside for the rest of the day++ and come back to it again later....

Thanks LEN, Perfect Seat!

Kurt

 

Sweet seat..they did fine work ... looks really perfect on the bike...