AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics

Thanks Stump that makes sense about the new gasket. I have put my part list together and am anxiously awating my taxes.

 

ordered my gasket and bolts and stuff from chacal! Recieved my feeler gauges my hex sockets my oil filter...just waiting for the gasket and a new oil filter screw thing.. then i will begin my operation. Received shim tool.

 

Sunday. Sunday. Sunday!

 

Don't forget the torque wrench. Those bolts don't go on very tight. And they snap off very easily and a pos to get out if ones breaks. Trust me.

 

I got one for Xmas. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MB53ZE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. That is why I picked up the hex sockets. I have tons of allen wrenches.

 

What do you do when all of your buckets are turned and you cant get into the groove to pop the shim out?

 

You use a small screwdriver or your fingers to turn the bucket around.

 

I tried to spin it with the tool in place and it wouldnt budge. Is there a specific position the cam needs to be in to rotate the bucket?

 

you CAN'T spin it with the tool in place.....It's wedged in place with the valve spring and the tool! BEFORE you put the tool on, or the ziptie in.....when the cam is rotated away from the shim, you can EASILY rotate the bucket. BUT....make sure that you hold the bucket in place as you rotate the cam again, or it will spin the bucket out of reach again. If you're going to use the tool....rotate the cam a few times and watch just how far the bucket rotates. You'll get a feel for where to index it so that the cam rotates it right to where you want it.

NOW....all that being said-- if you go with the ziptie method instead, you can rotate the bucket all day long since the valve is held open from inside the cyl rather than by holding the bucket down.

You don't need a torque wrench for the valve cover bolts....they have a shoulder on them. run them down til they stop, then give them just a tweak and you'll be all set.

Dave F

 

Sorry if this is a silly question, but I have pools of oil in the low points which covers the lower lip of the bucket where the tool goes and makes it hard to see. Any tricks for draining this oil? (see pic below)



Thanks!

 

absorb it out with a clean paper towel or similar. also cover the cam lobe with a towel when removing the tool, sometimes the shim will pop in and squirt oil some distance, and somehow find it's way into your eye. no kidding!

FU

 

Thanks! I figured it was something simple like that. And good tip. I've already had a little oil squirt up.

 

Yeah just absorb it.... It's not hurting anything there though

 

If the oil has been neglected in the past there may be sludge there. Never a bad idea to clean up while your in there , but just remember that you will have to add a few ounces of oil after you run it

 

Question?
For the high tack gasket sealer does anyone have a tried and true brand they've used?
Would rather go into it with the proper tools.
Thanks,
-EM

 

Permatex. It is commonly available, and works as well as any.

 

I got a problem.
I've tried to follow your instructions, but I can only rotate the crankshaft (once) to the "F-mark" on the timing plate... Then it stops.
What to do then?

 

Start at thread of your own. You have problems that need to be looked into thoroughly.

 

Before I crack this thing open is there still a shim pool going on?

 

Yep.... Once you know what sizes you need, let me know and I'll see what I have. Also, if you are unsure of your calculations, run the numbers past me and I'll check them for you----

Dave fox