AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics

Dave, thanks. Might not be till just before Christmas.

Thanks again!

 

Whatever/whenever

 

Sorry , I had too.

 

I just found out what not to do.
I had a valve job done. Before that, I popped out all of the shims and recorded. Got the head back, reassembled, and checked clearances. Everything was tight as expected. Using the chart, I found out what size shims I would need to get into spec. I noticed that the 270 shim in intake 1 could be used in intake 3. By moving 3 shims around, I only needed 5. I used the insulated #12 wire, popped out the shim in intake 1. I then rotated the crank to move to intake 3 so I could remove that shim and put in the 270 that I just removed. At that point, the intake 1 cam lob moved into the empty bucket. As I continued to turn the crank, the cam lobe came into contact with the inside edge of the lip of the bucket. I guess I assumed I could pull all of the shims out at the same time, swap as needed, then order the ones I don't have. I didn't realize the lobe would get hung up in the empty top of the bucket. I'm ready for the scolding I deserve, but I didn't see this mentioned. I suppose I'm going to have to pull the cam to get myself out of this mess.
How would you go about swapping shims to different positions without this happening?

 

Yes you can swap shims from valve to valve. But first, you need to have the one shim that will start the " chain if events" for the swap. If you have a situation where all shims can be shifted around, then either have a "surrogate", plastic, etc. shim to start with. Then dont forget replace that one ...

Some people have gotten away with rotating empty buckets.... Personally, I wouldn't recommend doing that.

You may be able to carefully and slowly rotate the engine backward to depress the bucket again. Put the ziptie/wire in. Rotate forward, Make some thin discs that can easily fit in the bucket, and build up enough to get the bucket to depress far enough to open the valve enough so that you can get the thicker ziptie or wire in. Once there, pull the thin discs out and put the right shim in.

Now you're back on track....

 

The plastic disc is a great idea, thanks!

 

Contact listmember " Polock ". He can set you up with some. Let him know I sent you to him.

Dave F

 

I did my very first valve check last weekend. In 30 years of ownership, I always paid the Yamaha dealer to do it, and not frequently enough.

I purchased the valve bucket tool from Chacal. Some have reported problems with it. I have a few lessons learned from a newbie to add to the discussion:

- On the valves where there was a bolt hole on the engine block near the valve, it was very difficult to get the valve bucket tool aligned properly. The tool was too wide and couldn't get square with the cam because of the bolt hole sticking out. Using a dremel, I ground the sides of the "bend" on the shim bucket tool to make it narrower right at the bend. After that, no problems at all and it worked great. I also was expecting the tool would keep the ring around the shim from moving up when you turn the cam up. When it came up with the shim, I thought it wasn't working when it really was. The shim still popped right out.

I purchased all new gaskets and grommets. To replace the grommets, I used a dremel tool to cut the old grommet off the bolt. Order the brass "thingy" (cone) from Chacal. Using it, the new grommet will slide right onto the bolt. I forgot I had bought it, and just about ruined the first new grommet trying to muscle it on the bolt. It doesn't come with instructions, but it is obvious how it works when you look at the bolt and new grommet.

If you are over 50, I also recommend knee pads on the list of "must have" tools...

 

I have the donut tool too. I like it and the price was well spent. Tried installing donuts with and with out tool just to see the difference.
even as a throw away too it is good after all how many times are you going to replace donuts.......

 

if you clean the bearing caps with brake cleaner and write the shim size on it with a "sharpie" next time you do the shims you'll know what's in there.
i didn't think it would work, but it did.
talk with Chacal about those plastic shims, he's your man

 

I just write them in a notebook or notepad

 

I wish I was organised enough to do that.
I even write the tire pressure under the seat.

 

I'm going to keep a spreadsheet with measurements.

Shout out to Len (Chacal). I ordered the proper shims and other parts on Sunday night. They were waiting for me when I got home from work Wednesday. Saturday will once again be a project day to bring my valve adjustments up to spec.

This site is great! I encourage others to join as a paying member. I figure I've saved hundreds by learning to DIY from here.

4/30 - swapped in shims today. Took 3 hours. Bike has nice 'tick tick tick' again.

 

This was was a big help to me! I was afraid starting the job, but eventually it was easy and very satisfying! Thank you so much!

 

I have a question, I'm very new to the world of xjs and I bought a basket case of a bike. I was wondering since my engine is not timed (timing chain is disconnected) could I remove the valves completely and do a bench check on them or would I be better off leaving the valves on the engine and rotate the cams by hand, the po rebuilt the engine but never timed it, when I got it I had 5 shims and 4 buckets in a bag with 4 buckets only 3 with shims on the valves with the cams removed

 

You are better off carefully setting the cam timing with a new chain, otherwise you risk damaging the valves when they hit the pistons. Put the shims in the buckets so they don't get damaged. Doesn't matter which shims go where, but you will be swapping them around to get clearance measurements. You might consider buying a full set of the plastic shims that Chacal sells for shim swaps.

 

Thanks moe I will set the timing tomorrow befor I check the clearance. It has a new chain in it but the cams were out of the engine so I'm going to have a little prepping to do there. Is there a downloadable service manual anywhere I was going to pick one up tomorrow but I doubt anything will be open

 

Does anyone have a link to a good set of feeler gauges that will work for valve adjustment needs?

 

Yes. KD Tools 2274. Any decent auto parts supplier will have them.