Allow me to introduce myself...

Trying to mount the front fairing - does anyone know what these 4 holes align to? The top appears to have been hogged out by the previous owner. The two smaller ones almost but don't quite line up with the lower fork bolts. I'm stumped.

 

I have the rack and topbox, but not the saddlebags. I d not have that bracket, and don't see where it would be used. There is a bracket that ties the two halves of the rack together, but it looks a bit different from that one. Perhaps it's a revision of the earlier bracket.

 

Here is how it is mounted on mine for the front fairing. Note: the headlight bracket ears need to bent in, or sometimes they were cut, otherwise they interfere with the bracket when turning the bars.



Let me know if you need close up details or other angles.

It looks like there is a cross-plate that mounts to the frame in front with two larger bolts then the fairing mount bracket attaches to that with two bolts on each side. The stabilizer shock also mounts to the cross-plate.

Edit: here is a better view of the cross-plate.

 

Ah, that clears things up! Thank you for the great pictures. The small holes are for the reflectors (which get relocated from the frame), and the cross plate is my mystery bracket from above. I don't have a stabilizer to worry about. What is that black bag over the wiring? Is it an official piece or a homemade solution to protect the wiring?

 

As a side note, whoever designed the saddlebag luggage rack mounts had trump-sized hands and three extra finger joints. What a fiddly pain the arse.

 

Does it help to remove the rear cowling?

 

You will want a steering stabilizer.

 

Nope. The rear cowl holds the taillights. You can't have it off and put the rack on, because then you can't reinstall the cowl.

 

Trump sized hands. Is that a thing now? I almost blew coffee out my nose when I read that.

 

Thanks. It just appears that the brackets that are mounted to the frame that the luggage rack/ side case rack might be easier to get at with the cowling removed. Of course the cowling would have to be re-installed before the luggage rack gets bolted on. Fortunately, my racks all came pre-installed.

On another note, it seems with the luggage rack installed, even before the trunk is in place, that the seat cannot be tilted to gain access underneath. Is this correct?

 

I can just barely tilt it, but it involves a lot of pushing on the left side seat edge to get it back down.

 

Correct. The hinge pins are replaced by a solid, bent bar that runs to both hinge points and slides out to remove the seat. The bar is "hooked" at one end so that it slides out of both hinges at the same time. I'll take a pic tomorrow if I can't find one to link.
I made one from bar stock, but found it difficult to use with my Corbin seat, so I just use the forward hinge pin and a hairpin clip to hold the pin in place.
The seat-tilt limiting rod is also removed so it dosen't rattle around and fall off.

 

Good to know. I found it impossible to fit the second seat pin.

Today's mystery bracket:

 

Start a convestion and send me your e-mail address. I have found the PDF for the rear package instillation manual.

That looks like part of the steering damper bracket kit. I might have a spare damper that's missing that part of the bracket.

 

AFAIK, it appears to be an "official" piece. It wraps around the wiring bulk and is closed with snaps. There are cutouts at the top and bottom for the incoming harness and wiring out to the guages. Maybe it is part of the front fairing touring package since I think the wires are normally housed in the headlight bucket.?

 

Correct. That covers the wiring to prevent chafing and provide some (semi-reasonable) protection from moisture.

 

Really big hands. Great hands. So big. You'll get tired of their bigness.

 

They are yuge!

 

K-Moe shared the install guide. The only installation tidbit that might have made an easier difference for me was separating the side panels from their support brackets and bending them out. But as you still need to bring them back in, and then they still need to be attached to the upper and lower rear brackets. Which means I would still need to reach those @$#@ bolts behind the rear cowl.

 

Yes. The luggage rack is not easy to fit, but it sure does look good once it's on there. Yamaha kept it tight to the body, and sleek (Too bad the luggage isn't quite as nice to look at).

 

Back from the Handbuilt Show in Austin. Fantastic event, really cool people, inspiring builds.
Now it's time to get back to work on the Seca.

 

Quick question, with the touring fairing on, where do the dual horns mount?

 

It appears they attach to part of the steering damper bracket, which is attached to the cross-plate attached to the front frame members. The steering damper bracket looks like it partially clips onto the top of cross plate that is part of the fairing mounting bracket.

Don't know if this photo makes it clear or not:
Taken from right side, slightly behind.

 

So they sit inside the frame above the heads?

 

Correct. Just below the front of the tank.

 

Thank you - I wouldn't have thought of that as the location.

 

Pop Quiz- pigeon English edition: can you figure out what part I'm installing based on the instruction?

"Cover on the outer casing, adjust seat, use sirocco gun first uniform blowing outside of the casing pipe two crease until contraction so far, reoccupy sirocco uniform gun uniform blow to other parts of the outer casing, until the casing each part of a uniform, level off so. Contraction."

Good luck!

 

A new seat cover...duh.

 

Strike 1! It is neither a seat nor connected to it, despite the instruction to adjust it.

 

Carb to airbox boots?

 

Strike 2! Not part of the carbs or airbox.

 

I would have never guessed it, but I looked it up on google search...wow...when you see what it is. I have done them many times but not that that type of detailed directions.

 

Hold on. I think I might have seen that before.
Does the product cost less than $10 US?

 

$7.94 delivered.

 

Next instruction: "The switch installed in the rearview mirror under the rod."

 

Warming and cylindrical?

 

Bingo!

 

I have a set on my shelf for future use.

 

Hand grip warmers? Not made in the USA nor any other English speaking country?

 

We shall see how they work, but at less than 8 bucks I figure why not.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311704834193?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Trying to assemble everything, but I only have 4V to the headlight. Battery 12.6V. Dimmer switches properly. Suggestions?

 

The foglight only has 1v. The turn signals and horn each read 12v. Trying to trace it back...

 

Wait a minute - is this a "it needs to be started" issue? ugh.

 

Titled and plated in Colorado! This wasn't a sure thing, as the NM title had an error in the VIN. Some long winded explanation to a helpful LEO and some quick talking to a nice DMV clerk and now I'm legal!

 

Nice article from the Handbuilt show in Austin. The author described my electric conversion as "bitchin’ sci-fi/steampunk aesthetic and for a frankly terrifying first impression." I'll take that as a description of my bike.

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tre...ction_type_map=["og.likes"]&action_ref_map=[]

 

I was all ready to button up the Seca and now the tach doesn't work. Any quick-n-easy on where to look?

 

Good article, bro! Love to see xj Bros getting recognition

 

Tach issues: I have 12v at the tach sensor wires (grey/black and brown/black). I removed the tach from the atari housing and checked it but don't see anything obviously wrong with it. Any suggestions?

 

Seca on the road!

 

You know what makes your Seca run better? Adjusting your idle.

You know what helps? Having a forum where people asked and answered that question before.

Thanks, ant797, for asking the question. And thanks, xjbikes.com, for being there to answer it.