At lost for words.

Those dents and dings should be able to work those out with out too much trouble. The metal shouldn't be stretched enough to cause any problems bringing it back.

 

Update please.

Gary H.

 

Not much to update, finished color sanding on the front fender yesterday and shot 4 coats of clear. Going to wet sand and buff it today, and I am going to start stripping the tank.

 

Ran into a little problem today. The brake hose bracket that I ordered off of eBay is a little different, and I didn't catch it till today.
Due to this the shape and the off set I could not mount them on the inside of the fender.

 

So I put in some spacers to make it all good.

 

What do you think of the repair work on the fender. That is 3 coats of color and then 4 coats of clear, wet sanded then hand rubbed to get the orange peel out. (sorry about the picture quality its a over cast day.)




Now its on to the heavy stuff.

 

Idk about other members but it looks pretty damn good to me. Great job razz.

Gary H.

 

Are you sure the brake line stays are all good like that? My fender would be bent if I tried to install them that way, and wheel/tire clearance would be an issue.

 

so you take the dents out with your shoe?

just couldn't help myself

 

I thought the same, but in doing it this way it is only deflected an 1/8" on each side at the bottom. At the top where you would have clearance problems, the difference is so small I could not even measure the difference ether way.

 

LOL
To be honest, I don't have any paint and body tools like I use to, so I just use what I have on hand. First I use a rubber mallot to get all the oil can dents out. Then I use a small hammer with a larger hammer as an anvil, utilizing small taps of the hammer instead of heavy blows. That way you minimize stretching.


Then I learned a new trick from this guy, to use a spring center punch to get out all the small little dents. Needless to say it worked like a charm and I am very pleased with the results.

 

some awesome ideas!

 

After 2 cans of aircraft remover, aka nuclear snot, finally got the tank to bare metal. I have a few dents to contend with.

 

Stud welder would be in order and a lot of patience. The real key is to secure the tank down so it will be stable enough to work on.

 

They look pretty shallow. I'd just use filler (no I wouldn't. I'd get all Cretaceous and use lead, but I'm a special sort of dumbass).

 

Yeah. It takes a special kind of dumbass to throw around terms like "Cretaceous".

 

I made this and went the gas filler to massage the dents out the best i could then I used minimum filler.



Then I went with the center punch to take out the high spots.



Hopefully the weather will cooperate so I can finish with the filler and sanding, and on to the primer. It's getting exciting guys!

 

Razz, your focus and fortitude in this whole endeavor is admirable.


And throughout it all I don't recall you telling anybody that they were sub-human, POS's or other derogatory terms . . . In the end it makes for a better story and more people are on your side because of it.
Keep it up!

 

Thank you, I actually want to thank all of you for keeping me motivated and staying on top of the build. Trust me there are some days I get lazy and put everything on the back burner. Then I get that e mail "update please", then I know it is time to get up off my arse. Thank you, every one of you.

 

It's amazing when some bad things happen and the group gets together to support the one in need. In this case we are all wanting to see how it all works out. Razz you are on a roll , keep,the momentum going!

 

I'm more of a Cambrian guy myself.

For that's when I exploded.

 

I've used bondo types of fillers a lot over the years, but have read a lot about lead- filling and leading-in---- it really intrigues me and seems that it's better than any other filler. Probably involves more work, but I'm figuring to to try it in a car project sometime....

 

There is definately a technique to it, and it takes some time to learn. I don't do it often, but that's mainly because I don't have much call to do bodywork. The only real downside is that you will be shaping the lead with a file after laying it down, so need to take the proper precautions. There used to be kits available with the correct lead alloys for body filling. Might be worth looking for one.

 

Yeah.... And vice read just about every article on it over the years in HotRod, etc....the butter stage, the paddle, the file, etc.... It's all head knowledge, I do look forward to trying it though...

 

Looking great Razz, your dedication to the bike is admirable. We've had a mild winter here and I've yet to get in the garage in over 4 weeks

 

Just an iddy biddy update. Shot the color today, just a few more coats to go. Then I will color sand and then clear coat it.

 

Yeah, buddy!!

 

Progress , got to love it! Keep up the good work Razz!

 

Killer!

 

Shot 4 coats of clear on the tank today, I still have to finish sand and buff it smooth. Also got both side covers painted, I am waiting to paint woodstock on them before I hit them with the clear. My game plan for the rest of the day is to sand, prime, and paint the rear fender before the rain sets in for the next 3 days. But I am tuckerd out right now so I might put that off a bit. Till next time. (she sure is lookin perdy)

 

Hey Razz,
I like the little PVC jig you made to hold the tank for painting. How did the rear fender turn out?

 

Looks like your bikes rear is sitting on a mini lawn chair Looking great man!

 

That is actually my carburetor stand.

Don't want to talk about it. Put it this way. I should have waited for less humid weather, Paint cures more fully. A quick strip and I will be back to square one.
Not much left to do, paint and mount the rear fender, clean and paint the engine then install, new clutch cable, soda blast the carbs and install, paint and install the swing arm, rear shocks, mount the tire and install the wheel, repair and paint the exhaust, mirrors and turn signal, brake light, sissy bar, seat, and all the adjustments and final inspection.

 

Awesome job.

On the ebay clutch and brake levers how do you make the sensors operate? The little switches that are there. Or do you bypass? I'm interested considering I have changed the handle bars on my 650 and still rocking the stock master cylinder, I know it needs to be updated

Cheers,
af226

 

@af226: Get a MC from a Seca 650. It has the same guts but it'll sit straight.

Gary H.

 

Ya.....I just butchered a thread in mod forum......

Which seca will fit. I know it needs to be 14mm bore.

Thanks

 

Post deleted; PC sent. My apologies razz.

Gary H.

 

I will use the stock switches. No apology needed, if this thread helps more power to it.

 

Razz,
I wanted to wish you Happy Holidays. Just wanted you to know we are thinking about you and the hardship you had to go through with your bike. May 2016 bring good things to you and yours. Please keep the progress reports and pictures coming.

MN

 

thank you, and i wish you and every one else here the same. Update comming soon. (not much shop time with the holidays)

 

OK.... Now for that long over due update.......
Hopefully I can put all this mess in my rear view mirror. I also mounted my master cylinder and bleed the brakes.


Just look at that finish.


All ready have hanger rash... It can easily be fixed.


The rear fender has giving me hell.... I am on my 3rd try...What a deference the weather makes, when ever I put the clear on I get cracking in the color coat. Hear I heated the clear up and it went on fine with out cracking, just a little hazy from the humidity, but that will clear up when it drys.


I did all this 2 weeks ago, and I have done some since. So as soon as I see day light I will shoot some more your way. My goal is to having a rolling chassis by Friday, sans engine.

 

I have to say, I thought I had tough job fixing up my 82 maxim but this... This gives me hope. It ALSO gave me the sudden urge to re-run the vin on my bike. I would hate to think I was falling in love with someone's stolen baby.

 

Man, your controls / mirrors / grips look awesome. Nooice!

 

Iwas actually surprised by the mirrors i thought they was going tobe the typical cheap Chinese fodder. They are a solid aluminium, with the blue anti glare coating.

 

Got the rear fender, tool box, tail light, and turn signals installed.

 

Glad to see your found your bike. My z50 was stolen out of our yard when I was a kid. I still always look them over really closely when they pop up on craigslist.

 

I had a bit of a set back today. I was hoping to have her on her own two feet so I can start prepping the motor. But after stripping, priming, and painting the swing arm, I found a twist in it. Oh well I came this far, no since in letting this getting me down.

 

Minor.... Easy enough to find another swingarm. Probably be more expensive to try and straighten it (and more risky)

I probably have one around, too--- I'll check the parts hoard when I go out to the workshop later on.....

 

Wow, not good.
Dave said, "Minor.... Easy enough to find another swingarm. Probably be more expensive to try and straighten it (and more risky)"
Agreed.

Gary H.

 

Hey Razz,
I got one with the diff right on it. You pay the shipping cost and its yours.

MN

PS all I got to do is throw it in a box with bubble wrap and it can go to FedEx tomorrow if need be.