Awesome Alt. to Airbox to Carb Boots

jesus christ this is awesome. looks like im making a stop at lowes on the way home

 

On my Maxim X I has 2 bad boots and i used only one -Plumbquick -boot from HD cut it exactly in 2 parts and it made a good fit, had to wrestle to pull it out of the airbox (I had to remove the carb rack in first place to put these boots in the airbox)Did not have to file as the circumference is tight fit by itself to airbox. I used the same maxim clamps which made a snug fit.

 

I got these exact part that yamahaman did...but they seem a little long. I saw another post that said that old ones are actually shorter, but the old ones were about 2" and these plumbing fittings are about 3.5". Does that affect airflow, or have to be cut off?

 

Alright I noticed that no one that tried the lowes boots did so on a 750. Bad news....it's not quite a direct bolt on. Looking at both chacal's parts catalog and the xjcd cross ref, I noticed that the intake boots are not the same between models. I measured from the notch where the boots meet the outside of the airbox to the carb end (about 1 1/2"). I measured 1 1/2" from the edge of the "channel" in the plumb quick, scoring with my caliper set to 1.50" and cut it carefully with an exacto knife making 2-3 passes. I stuck the end with the channel in air box, and it fit really good, so no filing, but I didn't bother putting a channel for the other end for the clamp to the carb body.

 

Cool, GREAT thread, just read it in entirety for the first time, a great idea and solution that is affordable and easy.

 

Thanks!
And you know I've been wondering about the airflow factor ever since I saw a thread on "High Velosity Air Box Boots"
But if their is a difference I'd assume its miniscule. I mean, as long as you're gettin tan plugs I dont see how their could be a difference. Maybe in some MPG
-Chris

 

You know I'm starting to reconsider this. Is there anyway to rehab old airbox boots (soften the rubber, RTV gastet sealant, etc). When it comes to the whole "velocity stack" principle, I realized pulling these off again that the inside diameter looks quite a bit larger in the plumb-quicks, and there is no notch that rests on the carb body, meaning air on the edge of the intake will hit the edge of the body and become turbulent just before entering the carb. I wonder if this is a problem? So while they fit into the airbox well...I'm not sure about the other end.

 

I think there must've been gas in my boots as well (OEM), they're hardly attaching to the carbs on the bottom, but on the top half they're fully covering the carb opening Anyone else have this problem?

 

I have the same problem...i plan on trying this fix over the weekend!

 

double post....not sure why but it keeps happening

 

The length of the 1- 1/2 X 1-1/2 plumbing boots could be a factor if not shortened because they would reduce the air capacity of the airbox in my opinion. I have come up with a solution though. I trimmed off one end of the 2 inside boots putting the non trimmed end into the airbox and then securing the other end to the carburetor. The outside boots I trimmed both ends off and the put one end into the airbox and the other end over the carburetor. This would help with the airbox loss of volume and make a more secure clamping to the carbretors. The boots all seem to be secure and fit nicely inside of the airbox with a tight fit. I welcome any responses to my suggestion be it negative or positive ! THANKS DON !

 

you'll get it, just keep keep persuaing it! make sure the clamps in front of the carbs are loose when fitting them and also the airbox bolts removed. I actually have a half inch spacer on top of the airbox, for the mounting bolt to go through, keeping the box pointed a different direction. Just make everything loose, find it's home, and tighten it up the best you can

 

Totally agree Yamaman. I think they work just as nicely as the stock boots. I've run em for a year and they are still pliable, and I see no gain/loss of performance.
Now if I could only get her start button to work as well as the boots...

 

yank the button, connect the wires to a silver spring action toggle from radio shack w/ a clamp to go around the bars and Bam, new starter button. I like mine

 

I picked up the Lowes American Valve (not value!) RC40-23471 for $3.80ea tonight. I can't help but notice how much longer these are from the stock boots. Has everyone trimmed them or just leave them long?

 

TRIM! Mine are about half way on the lower clamp area, but I may have left them a little longer if I knew. Start with about 3/8ths and go from there. You definitely can't tell looking at it like the way you have in the photo.

 

I ended up cutting about 3/8" off. Here's what I did. Remove the OEM boots and clamp. Mount clamp on new boots and slide to smaller lip and hold it there then I drew a line with a sharpie. I then cut the boots to size, installed and reattached the OEM clamps. They went on SO much easier! Good bye old hard boots, hello new pliable boots! Here are some pics of the process.

EDIT - sorry for the orientation of the pictures, I took them with the iphone and it does odd stuff with rotation.

 

Did a great job and much cheaper then buying new ones

 

Using this method again on Project Maximus!

 

This needs to be stickied