Beginner restoration of a 82 XJ550 Maxim

Sadly a quick search for 96 radian 600 tank (I believe that’s first gen) comes up just about as fruitless as a xj550 tank search... open for ideas on the tank, I’m hoping to keep working on getting things running in the meantime, aux tank on the way.

 

I might have a 550 tank. I can check tomorrow night if that works for you. Not sure the condition, but I'll check everything and send pictures if I find it. Just moved this winter and have been working on my 650 so I snag xj parts whenever I find them local

 

Update and in need some help. I did all this before I was gone for a few weeks, just got back and want to figure out the next steps.

I got the carbs all apart, cleaned, thought things looked good, put them back together. I then put them back on the bike(sweet mercy those carbs are ugly and tough going off and back on). The tank is off right now so I hooked up an auxiliary tank(doesn’t have a petcock I don’t know if that matters). I got it all reconnected, changed the spark plugs, changed the oil, turn it over and.... nothing. I can get it to turn and try but it’s not igniting. Then I realize that gas is draining out the bottom, looks like an overflow hose that comes out of the air box. Looked inside the airbox and saw what carb air hole gas was coming out of. Sooo does that mean that carb has a problem with the float and is flooding? Is that enough to flood the whole thing and not allow it to start at all? It looked like it basically drained the whole aux tank, till it leveled out to not leak anymore, and there is just some gas in the hose now.

I am just trying to get it running, make sure I got that going, before I make air pod adjustments and take everything apart for customizing and cleaning. Thoughts?

 

Did you wet set the carbs before reinstalling? That will tell you if any float valves are leaking as well tell you the correct gas level.
Check your oil it may be full of fuel

 

One thing to remember about the 550 carbs is on first refill you have to

Rap a hammer handle or screwdriver handle against the car bowls because the float needles tend to get stuck that could be what your problem was with the leak

 

No... after I cleaned them and reassembled I just put the carbs back on. Then poured gas in the aux tank thinking I could just let them fill up and they would take what they needed, stop, then I would try to run it. Turned it over but couldn’t get anything to catch. Put some buster in the cylinder to try and get things going but that didn’t work. Maybe there isn’t spark? That’s an easy check but I don’t think that’s it.

So what’s the next step? Pull them off and try to Wet set them, If that doesn’t work then go about replacing the float needles?

 

Been awhile! Okay I pulled the carbs out and then rapped around on the bowls, then put fuel into them andddd.... fuel started coming out of the air intake side... My best guess is the float needles right? Would that be why it wouldn't start, it was just flooded so I couldn't get anything to catch. I'm ordering a few things from Len, curious if you guys think I'm missing anything.
HCP895SET4 - Orings set idle screw
HCP896SET4 - Washer set, idle screw
HCP1670SET4 - float needles set, this is the main thing
HCP18412SET4 - bowl gaskets, might as well

Also I'm still on the hunt for a GAS TANK! Anyone got any leads for an xj550 maxim tank!?

 

What did you set your floats at for the initial height? Initial setting before wetsetting is 21.5mm.

if your floats aren’t close to that, they may not close properly.

 

I tried to get them all pretty close to that 21.5, I did feel like the sensitivity was a little too much like it wasn't cutting off or pushing down really.

 

Ok folks so I got some new float needles and a few other things things to just update it while I had it apart from our by Len at xj4ever.

Wet set and no fuel was coming out the air intake so looks like that worked! Hopefully However when put them all together and tried letting some fuel down to test the connections I see a leak in that T bar fuel connecter in the middle! Like it’s not sealing.

Besides replacing it which I don’t want to do cause it seems fine, there aren’t rubber gaskets on that piece, is there something I can put on it, or do to seal those fuel connectors all up? I wanted to ask before I did something dumb. I have some gasket maker stuff, plumbers tape... yeah just wanted to ask my smart friends.

 

The T bar connector the fuel line goes onto has O rings to prevent fuel leaking which are not visible with the carburettors assembled. Unfortunately the carburettors have to be split from the mounting rails to replace them.

 

Yeah I have the carbs all the way into pieces, cleaned and was in reassembly doing the wet setting and putting those fuel line connectors in when I found the T was leaking. When I had it apart I could see ridges but there were no O rings that would come off like the pieces between the other carbs.

I just need something to seal that, I’ve got them all apart so it would be easy. Maybe I can find an O ring at the hardware store I can just put on there?

 

Some of the tees are rubber coated steal with ridges that acted as o-rings. Some tees had just o-rings. Get a new tee with o-rings. Do it right do it once.

 

Lostboy thats what it is, steal T rubber coated so those act like ridges, but yeah they aren't doing so great haha

 

600 fuel tee and it has orings , Len sells those too.

 

Hey guys I'm going to be putting the carbs back on and trying to get things to run now with what I think was the issue with the flooding fixed. I'm remembering how terrible the airbox experience is, I also think longterm I'll be pulling the airbox to clean things up. What would you guys suggest for this 82 xj550 in this area? I know Pods are options, just curious what you guys would suggest before I do anything.

 

If you need parts for anything I've had a really good experience with Oldbikebarn

 

Howdy folks! Been awhile, but I'm back at it. I got the engine running, Whoot whoot! But a few things were happening. 1. It sounded a little rough close to idle, had a hard time keeping it in idle it wanted to die out even after adjusting things. 2. A few times when I was letting things run and revving it, it would start to rev up in RPM's on it's own! I wouldn't touch anything and it would just be climbing, I'd have to usually kill it to stop it.

Moving forward.
First, I haven't done a valve clearance adjustment yet so I'm getting into that now. Where do you guys recommend getting the shims once I measure and know what I need? Also any recommendations on gauges? I tried two that were way to big, the lowest gauge was bigger then specs for this bike.
Second, any ideas on the ghost revving?

I'd like to get the engine purring before I move into all the safety stuff and taking things apart again. I also do not want to take the carbs off again with the airbox. So I need some pod suggestions. This is my brain dump, send me wisdom

 

Shims-
Pool, talk with me
Wanna order new, talk with LEN

sync gauges- get a set of the Morgan Carbtune Pro

ghost idle-most likely due to not being Running-synced. If it continues after syncing, then it’s likely a vacuum leak. But don’t diagnose it as that till after you’ve done your running-sync.

 

Hogfiddles thanks for the advice. Let me ask some clarifying questions.
1. Great, I'll reach out when I know what size shims I need. The question I had on "gauges" where to get ones small enough to slide in and measure the shim clearances. Are those called Feeler gauges maybe? I don't know, but the two I tried, (look like thin metal pieces on a keychain) were too big for the clearance specs. Autozone didn't have small enough ones, I'll find some on amazon or something in the .10mm-.25mm range for these clearances.

2. After I measure, change the shims to get clearances in spec, then are you recommending doing the running carb sync? Do you know places that do that so I don't have to buy the tool?

3. It's more of a Ghost Rev haha it's idling, then randomly it starts to climb in rpms and can't be stopped till I cut it. Just to clarify.

Step 1 I need to get the right feeler gauges or whatever they are called to measure the shims and then get the right onces and swap them. I know I saw videos in here on how to do that. Then...?

 

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bigfitzs-airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics-parts-i-ii.116006/

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F2X8L4J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Thanks guys. I'll get in and do the clearance measurements, I'll let you know my measurements and I might see if you have some shims in your pool hogfiddle that I could get from you. Appreciate the help! Stay tuned!

 

I’m alive! Time to get this thing ready for summer.

Ok, so valve clearances. I finally got a gauge that could do it and got things measured. Things are all over the place which might explain running rough, remember the bike sat for years before I got it. Help me out here with knowing what shims I need, here are my measurements.

In: 1 - .02mm?(.04 wouldn’t fit) 2 - .10mm 3 - .13mm 4 - .02mm?(.04 wouldn’t fit)

Out: 1 - .13mm 2 - .15mm 3 - .10mm 4 - .18mm

What do you guys think? Can I know what I need just from that or do I need to pop out all the shims first? I was hoping to pop out the old ones and put in the new ones at the same time but maybe I can’t do that.

 

intake .11mm to .15mm
exhaust .16mm to .20mm
In:
1 - .02mm?(.04 wouldn’t fit) tight
2 - .10mm tight close but still out of spec
3 - .13mm in spec
4 - .02mm tight
Out:
1 - .13mm tight
2 - .15mm tight
3 - .10mm tight
4 - .18mm in spec

first step is to remove shims (one at a time) and look on back side to get size. when you have the size you can determine replacment shim size.
if marking has worn off you will need to measure shim thickness with a caliper.

you may be able to swap some shims around to bring some valves in spec.
it is a good idea to have a spare place holder shim or get some plastic place holders from xj4ever, to help with swapping around shims

get a note book and record shim locations and sizes then when you replace shims record that data too.
with this info the next time you need to measure and change you will have the info you need to get a new shim
always keep the history of your measurements.

then you measure your ignition system record that info too.

same with charging system voltages and ohms measurements.
this will all help with future problems that may arise.

Hogfiddles posted a link above on how to do the shims read it a few times.

valve shims are the first step in getting bike running correctly.
,
if you have access to a compresion tester it would be nice to see those values.
you could do that now just to see how bringing shims into spec changes those values.
this will help understand the importance of shim spec,

 

This is great thank you, it was about as I finished the post after cleaning things up I realized I probably would need the shim sizes inside…

So I’m going to go back and take each one out, read and record, then I’ll know what I need to get from maybe some of y’all’s extra stashes or somewhere else.

When I pull them out, before I move to the next one do I have to put that one back in or can I leave them empty knowing I have to replace many of them? Will it cause any harm being empty waiting for the new ones?

I don’t wanna wait for fakes and I don’t have any spares yet so I just need to know if when I pull it if I should put it right back or if I can pull all the needed ones and leave empty.

I have initial compressions, and yeah I’ll measure again after I get them in spec that will be cool to see.

 

Don't leave the buckets without shims, you can cause damage if you do.

 

And I run the shim pool so let me know what you need....and feel free to send a pm with your figures and I’ll doublecheck them for ya

 

Alright! Note to others, after you measure the clearance pull the shims and get the numbers so you can do the math and know your replacements rather than being like me and taking it apart twice haha

In review now with shim numbers:
In: 1 - .02mm(285) 2 - .10mm(275) 3 - .13mm (270) 4 - .02mm(285)
Out: 1 - .13mm(260) 2 - .15mm(265) 3 - .10mm(280) 4 - .18mm (260)

Soo I’m thinking for the replacements :

Intake into spec (.11mm-.15mm)
1. 285 - (.13mm(spec)- .0(measured)= 285-.13=272
2. 275 - (.13(spec) - .10(measured)= 275-.03= 272
3. .13mm is good
4. 285 - (.13 - .0(measured))= 285-.13=272

Exhaust into spec (.16mm-.20mm)
1. 260 - (.18mm (spec)-.13(clearance measured) = 260-.05= 255
2. 265 - (.18mm(spec) - .15mm(measured))= 265-.03= 262
3. 280-(.18-.10)=280-.08=272
4. .18mm good

Ok, I tried to share my math to help but this is the finals please check if I’m right. Also I’m guessing that they come in multiples of 5 so I’m going to round to that number going wider knowing they get tighter over time.

Need Replacement Shims:
In: 1 - 272(270 rounding would give me .15mm gap) 2 - 272(270) 4 - 272(270)
Exhaust: 1 - 255 2 - 262(260 rounding so .20mm gap) 3 - 272(270 rounding so .20mm gap)

wow that’s a novel, I’m trying to be helpful and organized writing it out. I hope this helps someone some day. You experts grade my work thanks!

 

In: 1 - .02mm(285) replace with 275
2 - .10mm(275) replace with 270
3 - .13mm (270) good no change
4 - .02mm(285) replace with 275
intake
swap cylinder 2 into cylinder 1
get 270 for #2
get 275 shim for #4



Out:
1 - .13mm(260) replace with 255
2 - .15mm(265) replace with 260
3 - .10mm(280). replace with 270
4 - .18mm (260) good no change

exhaustt swap cyl 1 shim into cylinder 2

get 255 shim for #1
get 270 shim for #3

 

Thank you, I started a PM with hogfiddles to try and get these shims and contribute to the pool. Hopefully I can get them soon so I can move on!

Question, on those .02mm measurements, my gauge only went down to .04 and that didn't fit. So its possible that they are just straight .0. So should I go for the 270 instead of 275 on those because it's better to be higher knowing that things get tighter? Curious if anyone else has ran into that decision before.

 

In: 1 - .02mm(285) replace with 275
if you use a 275 you would be at you should be at .12mm
if you use a 275 you would be out of spec at .17 mm+

the valves do not get tighter that fast.
best option would be pick up a spare 270 and try it incase your 0.02 is 0.00
what you can do is when you get your shims try one of the 270 shims where the 0.02 intake #1 rotate the motor a few times and measure

 

Just read through your post today and enjoyed seeing somebody starting a project at novice level, which is where I'm at also. The only comment I have is...what in the flippity flop filth and foul did they do to your tank!!!! That looks like it was smashed in a press!! Crazy.

Best of luck on your bike!

 

looks like i will be in the same boat soon here ! got my junkyard 82 xj650 running pretty good for the first time in over 20 years with just a budget carb rebuild. was not even thinking about checking valve clearances but i suppose if i plan to ride this bike i should take the proper steps. at the same time i have a xj750 sitting right beside if for parts an a good motor so maybe i will overhaul the 750 and prepare for a swap in the future !

either way this thread has been great for where to go on the next step. looking forward to hearing of everyones progress !

ps. this is my first motorcycle and am definitely far from knowledgeable on these machines lol

 

it is an absolute must to check and bring the valves in spec first.
that allows you to do a proper running sync.
any carb adjustments will have to be done over
doing a running sync before you do the valves is a waste of time.

 

The xj750 engine will fit in the xj650. Particulars are available here for doing the swap.

 

Might be a dumb question, but will the valve shims from the xj750 work with the xj650 ? might save me from having to buy too many new shims.
I plan to try and get some measurements tonight and see where im at ! fired the bike up with some fresh oil last night and it definitely ran much worse than previously and almost wanted to run away so i will definitely check the valves before i get the carbs set up. (might still try slapping on the 750 carbs with pods and see how it reacts)

 

Get a carb synchronizing manometer if you have the bike running now.
It might be just looking for the final tweak of the carbs.
They are not expensive when you total up all the parts for a carb rebuild which I recommend you do anyway.
I like your idea of restoring the 750 motor to swap in.
But if your 650 is running now just might need a carb sync to ride it.


Valve shims are the same,
This Yamaha 1J7-12169-N1-00 PAD, ADJUSTING 2.95 (2.95) fits the following models and components:

In addition to Yamaha these shims are the same size Kawasaki use.
Apparently BMW also.

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ750J Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ650J Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XZ550RJ Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XJ650LH Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XJ650 - XJ650H Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XS1100LH Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XS1100H Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XS850SH Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1977 XS750D Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1985 FJ600N Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1978 XS750SE Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1979 XS750SF Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1979 XS1100F Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1980 XS1100G Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ650RJ Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1980 XS850LG Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ1100J Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1990 RADIAN - YX600AC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1986 RADIAN - YX600SC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1978 XS750E_227 Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1978 XS750SE-31 Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1978 XS1100E Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1979 XS750F Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1985 FJ600NC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1984 FJ600L Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1984 FJ600LC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1980 XS1100LG Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1980 XJ650 - XJ650G Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1980 XS1100SG Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1988 FZ600UC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1988 FZ600U Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1980 XS850G Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1980 XS850SG Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XJ550RK Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 SECA - XJ900RK Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XJ550RH Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XJ750RH Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1989 RADIAN - YX600W Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XS400K Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XS400RK Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1986 RADIAN - YX600S Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1987 FZ600T Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1987 FZ600TC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1985 MAXIM - XJ700N Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1987 RADIAN - YX600TC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1987 RADIAN - YX600T Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1990 RADIAN - YX600A Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ650LJ Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XS850H Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XS1100SH Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1985 MAXIM - XJ700NC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1986 FZ600S Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1986 MAXIM - XJ700S Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1986 MAXIM - XJ700SC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XJ750K Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XJ750MK Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XJ650LK Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1977 XS750-2D Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1978 XS750E Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XS400J Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XS400RJ Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XJ650K Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XJ750RK Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1983 XZ550RK Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XS850LH Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ750RJ Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1982 XJ550RJ Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1986 FZ600SC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1988 RADIAN - YX600U Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1988 RADIAN - YX600UC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1989 RADIAN - YX600WC Valve

Yamaha Motorcycle 1981 XJ550H VALVE XJ550H J K

 

All xj airhead shims are 29mm shims

 

750 carbs with pods on a 650 are gonna be a hassle..... waaay too much air, too much fuel, etc.....

 

If anything I will try and make my own carb sync tool, cant say i want to spend the big bucks for something i wont use much. this is a very budget build and would love to keep it that way

 

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/homemade-manometer.126761/
This is a bit fancy, as Polock says, but you can do something less fancy but similar for transmission fluid. Better (more accurate) than any bottle method but you would need to use much longer tubing since any regular liquid is much less dense than mercury. There are many videos on YouTube about this.

 

I'll see what supplies I got laying around and see what I can make up ! Probably try some clear line and some ATF see what happens. also plan to try syncing carb 3 and 4 together first, then 1 and 2 together, then i will sync 3/4 to 1/2 using just a 2 chamber tester. this seams to be an easier route according some research.

this is all trial and error and i'm not scared to mess up so i'll give it a shot !

 

Check YouTube videos, the length needs to be longer to prevent fluid from being sucked into your engine. Also make sure you use restrictors, they have a very small hole to restrict rapid/large fluid movements.

 

It’s a hot-button debate issue (YICS tool).....

But as far as I’m concerned, you don’t need to do that. Unless you’re racing and trying to wring out that last 1/100th of a second, don’t worry about the YICS tool. Just balance the carbs (running sync).

I have one, never needed it, still in the plastic

 

well that's good to hear ! if I can get this bike running good enough to boot around some back roads and get me 25 minutes to work and back (also back roads) i'll be more than happy ! $200 bike to save on some expenses with my diesel pickup truck lol

I plant to play around some more this week but we got snowy weather back here in Ontario so i'm in no rush until it melts again

 

Here is my homebuilt manometer, to give you more ideas:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/2-bottle-sync-tool.19139/


I have never used a YICS tool either.

 

Yup, just need to balance the carbs......Many homemade ones work just fine.

personally, I’d recommend springing for the Morgan CarbTune Pro.... you’ll end up using it A LOT— you’ll be the guy everyone comes to, and you’ll end up hosting your own carb clinic in your area, and 15yrs from now, you’ll be looking back saying “man this is fun....”

And someday you might even have a YICS tool that you never use, too.....

 

Okay well this week I'll have to rig up something and get the carbs balanced ! really wanted to get at it this weekend, but the home renovations take priority in the Mrs. eyes lol still running the homemade pod filters so might get something a bit better ordered for it this week too. my plan is to tig weld up a custom 4 into 1 intake then use a single filter positioned where the old box was. hopeful this works for something a bit different

 

or you could try fitting the surge tank from the turbo, here's one close in Owen Sound for $35.

https://www.hoopriderparts.com/prod...urbo-air-distribution-box-surge-tank-complete