Bench sync observation and Q

Finally done with my first go around at cleaning/rebuilding the carbs.
Another major thumbs up for Chacal btw!
Put the rack back together and started kinda playing with all the knobs etc to see what does what :wink: and behold just on top of the butterfly valves you can see the airjet passages. So why use a paperclip/piece of paper or what ever, why not set all the butterflies at the edge of the airhole(sounds like....)? The reflection in the butterfly makes that real easy.
Which leads to the Q, is there a starting point on where to set the idle rod adjustment screw? (like 2 3/4 out on the idle mixture screws)?

Another funny surprise, I went to get the fuel tank to start checking the float heights. the damn thing sprung a leak, a nice crack in the lower part. Bye bye 3 liters of gas. 8O
No to mention the nice rust color of the gas that was still in there, or all the crap that came out of the tank. POR15 locally not available (any1 has a souce in Vancouver. BC? Seattle area maybe?)
I found POR15 to be pretty much the only product with a 95% positive feedback, if any1 knows something better pls SHOUT.
At least I got an excuse to paint the tank sooner rather then later :lol:
Plus a petcock rebuild while it's out. (wallet crinches, wife yells ..... again).
:roll: I love it.

 

Noticed same thing....still went with paper clips...

skillet

 

those little hole are what i always use, you want the idle rod to open all the butterflys at the same, the back it out till they close then in till you just detect they moved, it don't take much to idle

 

I've used the little hole method, and the 1/4" strips of business card. Either works, but the business card get's you just a bit closer. You'll still need to synch with the engine running, since the carbs are only a portion of the equation.

 

You can assciate the feeling something in your hands with a visual, its insurance for a procedure that should be as presice as your ability, so, no biggy

 

Thanks, the way those carbs work I kinda figured the butterflies should be open just a tiny bit if at all.
I'll be fine tuning when they're on the bike. After the fuel tank's fixed :cry: And I still need to check the valve shim sizes currently installed and order new ones accordingly. 2 where out of spec.

 

:? :?: ..........Pardon my English, but whaaaaat?
English is not my native language so forgive my ignorance.

You're saying I should associate/combine the feeling of sliding a paperclip under the butterfly valve with a visual thing like the air hole. Haven't tried the paperclip/paper sliding thing yet but I would think a visual of all four carbs at a glance and setting them at the edge of the hole would be more accurate then trying to compare 4 individual feelings.
It doesn't have to be that precise does it? It just a starting point to get it running. The closer the better, obviously. So is it a biggy or isn't it?

 

Well if your going to do a vacume sync right after or very soon it isn't a huge biggy, but if it doesn't seem like the vacume thing will happen soon then yes its a biggy

 

good deal....thanks for the tips. When I get back from PA this weekend I'll be putting the carbs back together and doing my bench synch like this.

 

K, thanks.
They will be vacuum synched as soon as they get back on the bike.

 

Does anyone have a preferred method of using the Manometer that they would like to describe? Ive seen a few different methods in the forums and want to see a few more before I try it.

 

I don't mind you trying to hijack my thread :wink: but you'll likely get more responses if you start your own.
Speaking from theoretical "experience" only but isn't there only one way to use a manometer?
The #3 never changes so that's ur base, use the screw between 3&4 to synch #4 to #3. Then use the screw between 1&2 to synch those 2 and then use the screw between 2&3 to synch the left pair(1&2) to the right pair (3&4).