Bike wont idle

Ok, so i followed a guide on here in regards to tuning the air/fuel mixture at idle using the pilot screws. Turn them in, turn them all out to 2.5 turns and then start at 1 with a low rpm and go until the rpm's stop raising and then turn it back 2degrees.

Well if i set my idle at around 1000 according to my gage, i can start at 1 and the rpms rise, and stop moving. This point seems to occur at closer to 4 turns out rather then the base 2.5. So i move over to number 2 and do the same thing....then onto 3 and 4. The problem i am having is that when i do 3 there is very little if any change in the rpm when i turn it out and the only difference i seem to get is that it chokes the motor when i get it turned almost all the way in to seated. So i just adjusted these 2 until the motor sounded like it was running at its best.

Took it for a ride and it pulled nice, no hesitation , no backfiring.

I pulled the plugs and 1,2 and 4 seemed to be about the right colour but 3 was pretty clean, so I turned it out 1/2 turn ( I know it may be too much). to see if i could get color on the plug on the way to work to see if i was going the right direction. Anyways, today it ran like shit. Had to keep the revs up when starting off the line and it just didnt seem to pull nearly as hard.

Does making an adjustment this extreme to 1 plug really make that much of a difference?

 

You might want to try just going back to setting them all to 2.5 turns then adjusting +/- 1/4 turn for an even spark plug color. It seems to me that 4 turns is too far out. I'm no wizard but the only reason why I can think that you would need to go out to 4 turns after the work you've done would be because the bike may not have been fully warmed up when you did the tuning.

You may also want to start thinking about a color tune, there pretty nice things to have.

 

Comment on reaming out with a torch cleaning tool, that would maybe remove aluminum from the carb body and buying new Pilot jets would not change the fact that aluminum was permanently removed.
If this is the case, then your carb bodies are permanently ruined.

You should set things up the way they ran the best, then do a running sync, maybe double check the lawnmower mechanic's work on your valve adjustment.

Then keep a note pad, make MINUTE Pilot jet changes and do plug reads for your final tune. If you aren't happy after all that, save up $60 and get a E-Bay rack to work on. Start over.

Meanwhile ride safe and have fun !!

 

Yes. It make a BIG Difference.

The Pilot Mixture Screw has a RANGE to it.
As the Screw is lifted off BOTTOM ... The Screw is Raised UP through the O-Ring.
There comes a Point where you allow Complete Flow and Further Adjustment OUT does NOTHING. Its already Wide Open.

To get the O-ring out ...
Heat the tip of a Large Safety Pin
Bend a TINY Hook.
Let cool.
Go get the O-ring.

 

Hey Rick, I believe it was your guides that I followed for tuning and setting the air fuel mixture at idle. When I tore it all down.

I managed to get the "O" rings out and there are new ones in there.

I honestly don't think there were any problems with the old pilots. I think it was probably that the carbs were never torn down completely and cleaned causing all my problems.

fore4runner, My though with being turned out so far was that its because the idle jets are not the right size for my elevation. It is what they say to have for Canada, but maybe not the best for my elevation.

I think I am going to take it for a drive and tune again when the bike is fully warm. Maybe it wasn't warm enough. Write down the current number of turns and then re-tune, only takes 10 minutes to do it all again but this time not turn down the idle until i have completed tuning each hole.

 

Man...I am such a tool.

On the way home i could not get it to go over 120kph...it was so dog slow and it sounded like an aircompressor that had reached full pressure but would not shut off.

I got home and went to pull the tank and was about to do a plug check when i realize I should not be able to see the top of the plug..

Ya, I am a tool...i was running off 3 cylinders.

It runs like a champ now!!!

 

those little "facepalm" moments are priceless. I've done it a time or 3
enjoy the ride!

 

Now we now why three was clean.
:lol:
Sometimes the simple things kick you.
Myself included.
:lol:

 

haha...i am not that dumb....the wire was not hooked up after i had done the previous plug check..

Well i turned it back and have put on 50km's and then i ran out of gas and had to push the damn thing home

I wish i could figure out whats wrong with my petcock...why wont my reserve work.

Anways...i did a plug check again and I just wanted clarification...is it the color of the electrode...ie the very end of the spark plug that you adjust for the gap...or is is the white ceramic insulator surrounding the electrode in the middle.

Because my end of the sparkplugs are a light brown...not quite chocolate on all but #3...still seems maybe a little lean...but the ceramic insulator looks clean on 2,3 and 4 and its hard to tell the difference between my year old plugs and my 2 new plugs because of this..
thanks

 

sounds like the petcock could use a rebuild. mine is in teh same boat. I get about 3 miles on reserve....

 

The tower has probably fallen off the petcock inside the tank.
I have no reserve on mine iether I just fill up at 150 miles.

You want the ceramic insulator to be brown.
The electrode should be fairly clean.