Bike won't start, electricals smoking?!

You might want to do an oil change now, even though it will be sitting for a while. I would think it's better for your bike and the parts involved to be surrounded in nice fresh oil for the next little while than an oil/fuel combination. Many people change the oil just before putting it away, and then change it again before riding in the spring.

Hope this is helpful,

 

Ok, this is a stupid question, but precisely which make and specifications should I buy of oil?

Best case scenario, I tap the back of carb bowls with a screwdriver and what am I looking for?

 

For oil you need anything that satisfies the minimum API requirement (SJ is the old standard which has been superseded, I don't know what the new standard is) and is of the correct viscosity for your environment. Here in CA, where it doesn't get below 45, I run Castrol GTX 20W/50 year round. In colder climates, I'd look for a 10/40.
As for the floats, you (and by extension they) are best served by being pulled, cleaned spotless and re-installed for the long hibernation. Be sure to put some Sta-bil in your tank to keep the fuel from getting bad on you.

 

Oil and fuel in crankcase can't be good for your seals and clutch. As least drain it.