BK's Winter RestoMod Project - 82 XJ650 Seca

Yep. Or just borrow the clips from the original viton-tipped float valves.

 

When drilling the snapped bolts out; make sure that your drill bit is sharp, as in brand-new sharp. Start with a small drill and work your way up slowly. Despite having snapped off easily, the bolts actually are made from a fairly hard steel and will take time to drill out.

 

I went through five brand new cobalt bits. Started at 1/16". Perhaps I can rig something up in my drill press. I just want to be careful of all the filings though.

Oh, the valves. They're completely blackened. Should I use a wire brush or something and clean them up? Or will the risk something?

 

Overnight soak in Seafoam carbon cleaner and a brass wire brush. It'll take the carbon off without scarring the metal. Same thing for cleaning the valve guides and pistons.

Gary H.

 

How slow can your handheld drill turn? Did you use a cutting oil or other lubricant?

 

i see valve stem seals, head studs, valve lapping and taps in your future
drill chips are the least of your problems

 

i don't see any punch marks on your broken bolts

 

Goes pretty slow. At one point there was about 1/4" of thread sticking out of the head. I drilled through that portion just fine. Once the bit started into the thread that were below the block, it wasn't having it. And no, I did not start drilling into the head.

While the valves are still in the heads? Or am I going out and borrowing a valve spring compressor and pulling the valves too?

Just curious, but why is that? All the carbon buildup?

 

For like the pilot hole? I did when I started out with the threads sticking out 1/4". That 1/4" is now broken off, but the drill hole is still there.

 

Tomorrow headed to the machine shop to get that screw pulled.

In high school we had a valve lapping machine. I never knew there was a paste and sticks you could use. Doesn't look too bad. Just time consuming.

Need to get my hands on a valve spring compressor.

 

Took me longer to reinstall the valves then it did to lap all my valves. Just watch the valve springs on installation, they are supposed to go in one way. I missed that in the manual and had to go do all 8 again. I'd lap and do seals while the head is off, minimal work really and the seals are inexpensive/are included in the gasket set.

 

Yea, I did notice that the seals come with the kit. I'll do them then.

Going to get the carbs all together first though. They're taking up most of my workbench and that's where I am going to do the valves.

I'm guessing that once I lap the valves, my valve shim measurements go out the window? I'll just put everything back in as normal, remeasure, then get the shims I need according to the new clearances?

 

Yes, you'll pull the valves and lap/grind them back in. They'll seat like new. New stem seals should come in the rebuild kit.

Gary H.

 

Intake bolts snapping sucks! Good to hear you took it to a machine shop to extract...I didn't use a carbide bit and snapped it off in the broken bolt. Ended up work-hardening the steel and made my life frustrating...you can see what I did in my "Tracker O.E.M. +" post. All will be good tho!

 

Oh, and you got the carb rebuild kit....the needle valves are new, yeah? Haven't seen the rubber/viton piece ever separate when new, but I don't have one in front of me to look at. Seen old used ones pop out but I wouldn't want a new one doing it.

 

Nope. No rebuild kit. Just cleaned everything up after soaking in SeaFoam.

 

If the rubber/viton tip looks like there is an indented ring around it from sitting in the jet, I would recommend replacing them when you can. KandL makes a nice kit that's not much at all

 

I tell yea, it was a pain in the ass to get that thing back in there. Once it was was, I gave it a few tugs and it wasn't going anywhere.

 

Yeah, if it's hard and dry, it may not seal right...they are wear items. I'm pumped you got the sync and color tune

 

I was surprised it was rubber at all. I always thought those were one piece and the tip was dipped in something.

That manometer is going to work awesome. I just need to attach it to a set of carbs that aren't completely out of whack.

 

So having a friend that runs a machine with with every imaginable tool is a great thing:


Two minutes with the TIG. Boom. Done.

Carb covers:


Didn't turn out the greatest. I used some high heat paint since they so close to the motor. Took like five coats. That's after sanding them down and priming them. We'll see how they hold up.

All assembled


Bench sync'd:


Won't be able to wet set them though. The drain screws are completely stripped and trashed.

Moving onto this:


After some SeaFoam and steel wool:


I am going to pull and relap the valves. Have to order the gasket kit first. Then either find someone with a valve spring compressor and end up buying one.

Question though. That bottom exhaust valve. See how in the center there is what looks like buildup of material? I tried sanding it away with the wool, but it was a no go. Do I leave the buildup there, or should I use a pick and remove it? Or is that a coating of some sort?

Tonight I'll work on the rest of the valve areas on the head. Also need to get a different wire brush for the drill to clean up the exterior of the head; try to get rid of all the oil and grease.

 

That build up is carbon on the valves. You can hit the valves with a bench mounted wire wheel, that stuff is baked on and the wheel won't hurt the valves. I wouldn't worry about cleaning them until you pull them out.

I had my head blasted at the machine shop (I think he said glass bead) for $30. They masked off everything so the machined surfaces weren't hit. I was painting the motor so it was worth it. You may not need to have it that clean if just reassembling.

They can check for straightness etc. too while you're there.

 

That's cool you got the bolt out. I had 7 broken (4 when I bought, I snapped 3 intake) so I went replacement head route.

 

After you remove the valves soak them in Seafoam carbon remover and use a brass bush chucked in a drill. It'll take it off without leaving scratches. It might take a few treatments. Remove the plugs and do the same thing for the guides.

Gary H.

 

That's the plan. Looking to borrow a valve spring compressor. But, I don't want to borrow it just yet because I'll have to order a gasket and hardware kit first. If I can't borrow it, I'll just have to buy one.

I left the plugs in last night because I poured the SeaFoam into the bowl before scrubbing it out with steel wool.

There's a local welding shop about 10 miles from me; going to see if he does or has anyone that does bead blasting. That one posted looks freakin' awesome.

 

Yes it does. I know he had the head done by a shop but Jay does good work himself.

Gary H.

 

I texted a buddy of mine if he knew any bead blasters in the area; he actually has a blast cabinet in the shop. Neat.

 

You can remove the valves without the compressor, but you will need one to reinstall. You can make one too, just be careful that what ever you make isn't capable of scratching the bore for the bucket.

To remove, you put a rag in the combustion chamber and then set the head on a sturdy flat surface. The rag keeps the valve from opening. Take a 5/8" spark plug socket and center on top of the valve spring. Strike the socket squarely with a hammer, this will cause the spring to compress but the valve won't move because of the rag. Once the spring goes down far enough, the retainers will fallout and the valve is released. I was hesitant to do so but I tried it on the spare head first, works really well and eliminated the need to source a compressor twice. I wouldn't recommend if you have access to a compressor or if you're clumsy, an ill guided blow could wreck the head. Watch those retainer clips, sometimes they will fly off.

Lemme know if you need any head parts, I saved everything off the scrap head.

 

Here's a video showing the concept, but with an actual tool and not a socket

 

Been at a standstill for a week or so now. Been slammed with bills lately. hooray for home ownership. Tonight I'm selling off a bunch of my 4x4 parts so I'll be back into this before long.

 

Shopping List:

• Valve Spring Compressor
• Top End Gasket/Seal Kit
• Top End Hardware Kit
• Valve Shims
• Master Cylinder
• Rear Brakes Rebuild
• Spark Plugs
• Front Directionals
• Oil Change
• Clutch Handle
• Clutch Cable
• Intake Manifold
• Air Filter

I think I'm missing something.

 

Carb rebuild kits
Tires
Brake pads/shoes
Blade fuse box upgrade

Lol

 

Oh, Yeah-----

Need MONEY

 

A cool new helmet.

 

I threw in a new fuse box, but it still uses the glass ones. Perhaps I'll do the blade fuses.

Tires are good.

Front pads are like 2" thick. I tore apart the front caliper and it works fantastic now. The rear brakes I'll rebuild.

Sold a bunch of 4x4 parts tonight. So its coming in nicely.

Going to go with a flat black theme on the bike; my helmet matches perfectly.

 

You might want to invest a tiny bit of money (and a lot of time) to make the helmet more visible.
This is my flat black with DOT reflective tape cut with a scrapbooking die cut.


If you don't want the color, there is retroreflective tape that comes in flat black.
Far fewer people have pulled out in front of me after I blinged up my helmet.

 

Hm. Interesting idea. What's it look like in the daylight? I already look like a really bad bowl of Fruit Loops on my XL. As "thsuper" as it sounds, I wouldn't mind matching a little more to the bike.

 

Mine looks like a bunch of orange/yellow stickers cut from DOT tape.
The flat black tape looks flat black. http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycles/stickers-decals/motorcycle-reflective-tape-kit.htm

 

do a ebay for "3m reflective sheeting"

 

Ordered myself a valve spring compressor, lapping paste, the sticks, and some engine assembly oil last night. Now onto gaskets and hardware kits. Could use some pointers.

I feel like a dick for shopping around, but I found this: http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/xj650r/?q=18-0151

The guy said it has every engine gasket except the oil seals; not entirely sure what those are. Is that the same thing as this?:
HCP5462 Aftermarket ENGINE REBUILD GASKET KIT, for all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim engines, 1980-81 XJ650 Euro (4K0 and 4K1 models), and 1982 XJ650RJ Seca (non-YICS) engines.
$ 149.95

Is that going to include everything I'm going to need get the head back on?

My concern is also these things:


Here's another shot of one (top left):


Not sure what those are called, but I'm thinking I'm going to need them.

 

Almost looks like I'd need the following:

HCP5469 Aftermarket TOP-END GASKET KIT, for all 1980-81 XJ650 engines, 1980-81 XJ650 Euro (4K0 and 4K1 models), and 1982 XJ650RJ Seca (non-yics) engines.
$ 129.95


HCP22781 Aftermarket TOP END O-RINGS and CRUSH WASHERS KIT, contains all of these additional items which are needed to do a top-end service, and are not included in the top-end gasket kit. Highly recommended. Contains the following items:
Fits all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim engines, 1980-81 XJ650 Euro (4K0 and 4K1 models), and 1982 XJ650RJ Seca (non-YICS) engines.
$ 49.95

HCP22323 Aftermarket OIL COOLER O-RINGS KIT, contains all of these additional items which are needed to do an oil cooler removal and replacement, and are not included in the gasket kit or in the standard top-end or complete o-rings and crush-washers kit. Highly recommended. Contains all of the following items:
Fits all XJ550, XJ650, and XJ750 (except XJ750RL) models with the factory-installed oil cooler system.
$ 15.95


HCP22339 Aftermarket TOP END HARDWARE KIT, contains all of the special hardware pieces which are needed to do a top-end service, and are not included in the top-end gasket kit. Although you may not think that you need these items, you may quickly discover that you do, since they tend to get seized and rusty and/or damaged (bent, out-of-round) during the engine dis-assembly process. Contains the following items:
Fits all XJ650, all XJ700 air-cooled, and all XJ750 air-cooled engines.
$ 59.95

So like, $300 or so to get this top end all buttoned up and ready to roll?

 

A complete top end rebuild includes removing the block and pistons. Start a conversation with Chacal. Tell him what model you have and whether you plan on removing the block and pistons (I highly recommend it). He'll tell you what you'll need and how much it'll cost.

I wouldn't. There's no harm in doing it.

They are locating dowels. Yeah, looks like new ones are in order.

Hope this helps.

Gary H.

Edit: Did you do any cleaning on the piston crowns?

 

Aw man, you mean pull the jugs out? I was hoping to leave all that in there. I was planning on just doing from the head gasket up.

Ah, locating dowels. Wasn't sure the name. I thought those things went all the way down through the block.

Haven't really touched the bike lately. Valve spring compressor and lapping paste will be here Tuesday. I'll start on those and clean out all the ports. Was quoted $80 for the bead blast so I'm going to pass on that. I'll use a wire wheel on the drill and go that route.

Piston crowns? Like, the top of the pistons? No, I have not but I plan to do so.

My initial plan was to get the bike in running order. Wasn't really looking to do a total rebuild. A little top end stuff. Revamp the brakes. Fix the headlight. That sort of thing. As excited as I am to ride the bike, I am not sure how long I'll keep it for. I'm so new to this I was planning on getting myself a winter project, ride it for a year, buy another project for the winter, and sell the XJ650 in the spring. Then ride that winter project for the year, buy a project for that winter, and so on.

We'll see how things go. My plans are always changing.

 

when you lap the valves, get a 2 or 3 inch piece of plastic tube or fuel line that fits over the valve stem and push it on the stem then put the other end in your cordless drill and save a lot of time

 

Well, time to get this thing moving again.

Scored this awesome piece of machinery last night:


$30. With sand. Could use a new piece of plexiglass though. But, I did this with it:







I mean, its not the same condition as what was posted earlier. But way better than before. I love this thing. One by one I'm pulling shiny things off the bike to make them less shiny. Right now I'm thinking the headlight ring and the right side "YAMAHA" panel will remain chrome. Everything else is getting and blasted then a flat black treatment.

One thing I do question are these little valve ports:


There is a little bit of crud in them. I've air blasted them and brake cleaned them multiple times. I'll keep trying to get the crap out, but perhaps once I do an oil change at like 50 miles it will flush out all that crap?


I have a very short week next week, so hoping the parts get here in time. Then I should be able to get the top end all buttoned up. Next will be levers, clutch cables, and the big thing will be the intake manifold. At least then I could start the motor. Once that is done I'll rebuild the rear brakes.

 

Well, I have some people telling me that I'll never be able to get the sand out. So, I didn't just ruin my motor did I? I'll keep hammering away at it with the compressor. One person suggested soaking the head in a hot tub of water and dish soap.

edit: to add, now I'm being told that if I miss one grain my motor is destroyed. awesome.

 

Wash and scrub it. It should come out.

Gary H.

 

that probably wasn't the best thing to do, but it's done now. that hole where the valve lifters go is clean enough, quit messing with it. the tolerances in the well and the valve guide are really close, quit while you're ahead.
i'd scrub anything that looks important with a toothbrush and kerosine then hose it really good with a garden hose. like till you're soaking wet and froze then another minute or two

 

Had a long night ahead of me, so I needed a little help:


The fun beings:


This water was freaking HOT. Not sure if the steam is visible. My hands are burned today though.


The residue left behind on the first dunking:


Dunk #3:


After the fourth and final dunking:




The process was fill up the basin with hot water and Dawn. Dunk it in. Plop it up and down for two MetallicA songs. Pull it out of the water and hose it down in the sink. Next use the compressed air and blow it all out. I did that process four times. As you can see, the first time there was a bit of residue. The second time was none. I did it two more times after that just to make sure. Every bolt hole. Every dowel hole was blown out four times after a dunking. I hope I'm ok now. I'll follow through with an oil change after 15 miles and 50 miles when I'm done.

Other than that, that was my accomplishment last night. My hands are burned to shit though.

 

Spray some oil on it, won't take long to start the white corrosion