Brake conversion?

I know I have talked to many of you about this before, but I will finally have the money to pull the trigger. So I have a 83 yamaha seca 750 that has been giving me front brake trouble on and off. I want to retrofit a handlebar assembly like the gentleman did in this post. With this I will go with stainless steel lines, but the question is how I go about routing them.

I want to use the stock "Brake Booster" if possible, or have a Y of the front fork to keep the handlebars clean and I am not sure how to accomplish this. I haven't been able to find a brake line Y in the proper banjo fitting for my bike.

What I was thinking is if the brake booster is basically just a Y, I would plug the hole for the hard line to the original remote master cylinder then use a double banjo bolt on the right side caliper brake line so it includes the master cylinder, although I am unsure if this will cause any pressure issues, I don't believe it will but this is dependent on if the brake booster is a true y, or some sort of portioning valve.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

 

What "brake booster" are you referring to?

The stock Seca 750 has a cable-operated remote master cylinder; no "booster" I know of...

 

You need a Master Cyl built to actuate 2 calipers that did not come off of "Buckhorn" bars, so the resivoir is level.

New Stainless lines, crush washers,

a simple distribution fitting ("Y") off almost ANY Jap bike.

There's no porportion valve or booster.
You can't run a brake line INTO the original Master from the new Master.

 

Or, a double banjo bolt and run both lines straight to the master

 

or a single line to the right side with a double bolt, then up over the fender to the left side

 

Hey - let's keep it clean !

 

not to be unclean but I don't understand the question,

any brake lever on designed for a remote MC cable on the appropriate sized handle bars will suffice...... however I don't get how switching handle bars will fix your brake problems.

rebuild mc, new SS brake lined and rebuild calipers... and you have new brakes.

the link, in the link. is of a bike with no front brakes sooooo......?

was that too dirty for you?

 

He has a 750 Seca and I think he wants to lose the "modular" cast bars and rectangular headlight setup, and maybe even the anti-dive.

The remote M/C is a PIA, but OK if you're going for the uncluttered bar look. Me, I'm an old school, bar mounted M/C kinda guy.

Polock's solution is, well, characteristically Polish. Yes, it will work; but PLEASE.

Brakes gotta be rebuilt. I won't fault anyone for going back to a "normal" tubular handlebar; and with the 750 Secas that means there are challenges to be dealt with. Personally, I'd take TIME's advice, and fit a level-oriented, dual-caliper capacity master cylinder on my new Euro bend 7/8" tubular bar, with one line to the "Y" and then block off the silly anti-dive and Bob's your Uncle. Done. Rebuild everything in the process and fit new stainless lines. Len does custom lengths for very little more $ than stock.

 

it's not my solution or even a Polish solution, it's a Yamaha solution.
Suzuki did it back in '06
you should really get out more

 

ouch............

 

BMW did it back in the eighties

 

Sorry, I have trouble conveying things over the internet sometimes.

So my only goal is to get a new master cylinder at this point, eliminated the anti-dive is intriguing, but from what I understand it would cost a bit of money and time to do it properly. So keeping the stock bars, I just want to cut off the existing system and put a handle bar mounted MC similar to what was done in the link I posted previously. My question is mainly how to handle the lines, I do like Polocks idea, my only concern would be keeping it from rubbing on the fender, any ideas?

Also what I referred to as a brake booster, (This is what I heard someone local refer to it as,) is what the MC runs to, then splits off to each caliper. Its a steel bit that has to lines one running to each side of the forks for the calipers, then the anti dive, as well a hard line running to the MC. I figured if it was possible I would use this bit.

I've been searching for a brakeline Y, I've been searching for "10mm 1.25mm brakeline y" and been mixing that up a bit to try and find something.

I am also looking at this MC http://www.ebay.com/itm/290906486570?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I'm thinking that should get me a good angle, as well as the same displacement as the stock MC.



Thank you all so much for your help and time. I know I am asking a lot of stupid questions but I am really trying to do my research and make sure I do this right. Brakes are a very important piece of a motorcycle and I would rather have them work

Thanks,
Mike

 

no such thing as a stupid question unless you already know the answer.

that block you are referring to is just a splitter so yes you can re use it IF you can make it work with your new bar mounted MC.

polock's idea would be the cleanest way of doing things, you just need your line measurements to the MC and over the fender, and remove all the old brake hardware.

 

"quote"
I am also looking at this MC www.ebay.com/itm/29090...EBIDX%3AIT

I'm thinking that should get me a good angle, as well as the same displacement as the stock MC.

That looks tempting, but it might be "Chinese Scooter Quality" and not up to the needed capacity.
What if you need a big fistfull of front brakes and the lever casting snaps off??
There's no way it fits the listed bikes too - - stay away !!

I could look on my TURBO bike and see if the "Y" splitter is still there and ship it to you for $10

 

The more I think about it the more I really like Polocks Idea so I think I will try and go that route TimetoRide thank you for the offer though! I will have to look at the bike and see if I can find a way to keep the line from rubbing the crap out of the fender though. I'm kind of wondering how stiff the SS brake lines are and if I need to even worry about that.

Thanks,
Mike


EDIT: You bring up a point TimetoRide I guess I will hunt for another MC then. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm gonna do some digging to see what I can find with similar displacement and bore size. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271190270595?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

This one looks like a good fit for my need, but after thinking about it the quality might be the same as the previous one I posted.

 

You need a m/c off a dual-disc bike that is aligned flat/horizontal. We offer a good quality OEM replacement (NOT made in China) that will fit the stock bars (you will have to slightly trim the upper/lower handlebar covers if you are retaining them). You'll also have to saw off the stock hand lever mount on the right-side control switch housing.

Then you need a brake hose that has a male npt thread on the bottom end (the hose from the M/C) so that you can continue to re-use the stock distribution blocks on your headlight bracket. And then the stock 1983 750 Seca caliper lines.

This will be the simplest method IF you are keeping the stock headlight mounting bracket. If not, then you're looking at something pure custom all the way on the brake lines.

 

I have a fairing and I have no intentions of getting rid of it or the mounting brackets. Do you happen to sell the cable that I would need from the MC to the distribution block Chacal? That sounds extremely simple and awesome. How much do those MC's run?

Thanks,
Mike

 

Also just realized the link I posted in my original post was wrong LOL.

Sorry about that guys, this is what I was referring to.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=256484.html



Also this MC looks like decent quality?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FRONT-BRAKE ... 16&vxp=mtr


Also I believe this adapter would work to convert the NPT thread to 10mm 1.25 mm which I believe would fit. Couple this with some new stainless steel brake lines and a MC that isn't stupid and I would be off to the races. It does look like this is for compressed gas operations but I imagine it would work the same.

http://www.hustlepaintball.com/Standard ... oCYNnw_wcB

That is assuming no one sees something stupid that I am doing


EDIT:

I think I mentioned this earlier, but I could also use the stock distributed, use a brass plug like the one below, then use a double banjo on one side if I can't find a way to adapt to NPT. Unless there is something wrong about doing that.

https://www.google.com/shopping/product ... EPMCMBI4FA

 

The adapter is "reverse" of what it needs to be......needs male 1/8" NPT threads and female m10/1,25.

 

Oh well thank you for pointing out my silly mistake!