cant get my idle

Well here we go again... Saw a post about spark plugs and caps. I bought news caps awhile ago. Well before I ever new about this website. I never check to see if they had resisters in them. Well 2 of them don't. I think this might be playing a major problem. Anyone have any input about running the bike with 2 caps with resisters and 2 without. I only can assume that it is not a good thing. Can I just pick up some NGK caps W/ resisters in them or do I need OEM parts. Thanks again.

 

Same difference. NGK caps ARE OE.

Get ahold of XJ4Ever (PM member chacal) if you want the correct parts for your 550. The 550s had two different styles of plug caps, one for #1 and #4 and a different style for the "inboards" #2 and #3.

STOCK, you want 10K Ohm caps on all four and NGK D8EA (NOT "R") plugs.

 

Thanks Fitz... Parts are on the way... Anyone no what effect there will be on the motor while running 5K OHM spark plug caps. How would the bike run while running those caps. Just wondering cause my idle is still hang up. I don't think that the caps would have anything to do with it.

 

I had a few issues with my carbs. but with diligence I cleared all that ailed them. If you want you can PM me. I live only about 100 miles from you. I can bring all the toys down there and get you straight. My bike now has 93,000 on frame and about 70,000 on motor & gets ridden to work 80% of the time to the tune of about 85 miles a day.

 

Back again and with the same problem. Got everything to proplerly sync the carbs. Morgan carb sync and the yics blocking tool. Let the bike warm up good with a fan on the motor. Go to sync them while giving a little gas every few seconds or so. Got them all just about the same read gave it a couple revs and they were all off again. Shut it down removed the yics tool. Turned to the wizards for some advise??? Anything helps. And I will give it another shot later today or in the morning. Obviously I'm missing something just can't figure it out. And it's driving me nuts. Thanks for any info.

 

Well had a bad back lately so haven't had much time to do anything on the bike but today felt better so I pulled the carbs rechecked the fuel levels with a clear tube method. I marked a spot on the clear tube to hold against the carb then mark -2 mm lower where the fuel level should be. All were perfect.

Went on to the bench sync with a business card they all looked good.

Carbs back on bike turn it on pri for a few seconds turn it on and it starts racing (4000 rpms is not a idle). With the bike back on (ON) once the fuel runs out of the bowls it just dies. Already rebuilt the petcock. Then when I saw fitz's write up went back to make sure everything was all good and it checked out fine. Theres plenty of vacuum suction coming from the engine to the petcock. There is a inline fuel filter. But the should have anything to do with it. I think that I'm narrowing the problem down to this just can't figure it out.


So.... Any thoughts????? Running out of things to try.

Thanks for everyone's time.

 

a fat business card could get you a 4k idle if all four are hitting, did you try to turn it down?
a bench sync really only gets you through the gate but your still in left field.
don't pass judgement till you do a running sync.
put a length of hose on the vacuum port and the fuel line in a can and suck, if gas doesn't come out, it don't work.....rebuilt or not, sorry.

 

Thanks polock. Normal business card smaller than a paper clip.
Tried turning down the idle and it dies. But when the gas runs out of the bowls it also dies.

Tried a running sync but if it doesn't idle correctly I don't think you can get a proper sync. Right?

Don't b sorry I could careless if the petcock is bad. The fact that I have something new to try is great thanks.

I will try your suggestion with the gas tanks.

Thanks again. We will see what happens.

 

you can get a running sync if you start at 3k, just tweek and turn the idle down, repeat as necessary.
or you can get close if the engine isn't even running, starter only. but that wouldn't be good to do.

when i bench sync i use the holes in the carb and the gap is about 2 hairs

 

This is a really good tip that I learned from our friend of few words, Mr. P.

Instead of trying to use a "feeler" of any sort, look in the top of the carb throats with the throttles open. You'll see a series of tiny holes. Turn the idle screw in far enough that the #3 butterfly exposes the first tiny hole. You can set it so it "splits" the hole, or is at the back edge of it, whatever.

Then sync the others by matching each butterflies' relationship to the tiny hole to #3's. Get them exact and your vac sync will be just a "touch up."

Once they all match, open and close the throttles a few times, make sure they all still match and then turn the idle screw out so they all close. Make sure they all close.

Then run the idle screw back in so, as above, the gap is about 2 hairs.

I've used this method ever since Polock first mentioned it some years back and you can get a much more accurate bench sync than you can with any sort of feelers. Thanks again, P.

 

I was able to take the carbs off bench sync them using the holes in the carb which gives you a much better bench sync then anything else I've tried. Thanks polock and fitz.

Hooked it all back up went to sync them and got them all within 2.5 lines on the Morgan carb tune. Pretty close. I didn't want to leave the yics tool in 2 long. So I shut it down.

Took the yics tool out and hooked everything back up to c how it ran. Idle was a little high. Turn it down. Idling right at 1200. Fingers crossed and it slowly started to creep back.

Here's where it gets interesting... When it put the screwdriver on the sync screw with a little pressure it came back down. Binding carbs???? New seals all around with silicon grease on them all. The carb were level all the way around while I was putting the rack back together. So i don't no why they would b binding or how. And if they were binding would that make the rpms creep up?

Now do I go back and check to throttle shaft seals make sure there all good. Or go back and try to get the bike perfectly sync????

Thanks again everyone.

 

when i had my carbs squeaky clean they did something like that, the weight of the screwdriver would change the sync. try this, bike off, open the throttle all the way and let it snap closed a few times, listen to the sound they make, now get a little oil on the springs for the throttle shafts, the sync screws and the little plates the sync screws push on. now listen again for a change in that sound. your listening for the thunk to change to a thwack,
try to get the sync perfect before you go back into those seals.
here's another thing. i'll most likely get some flack over but try to sync them without that yics tool in, works for me.

 

You won't get flack off me, bro.

 

Once again, Mr. P. has nailed it. You've got a slight bind somewhere; you need to get all of the linkage parts to "settle in."

Inspect the whole rack very carefully. All of the linkages and double-spring "sandwiches," the return springs, the various tabs, etc. You may have a return spring binding on its linkage or something just slightly out of position, a tab or the end of a spring rubbing where it ought not rub, etc.

Using the Morgan, you should be able to get them to match perfectly.

Being as they're Mikunis you don't want to go through the whole butterfly screw thing again, I'd hold off tearing into them to revisit the seals.

And I'm not going to rehash the YICS tool argument. Science is science; it isolates the cylinders so you're dealing with them individually. Whether or not that is an advantage when tuning is the only facet that can be debated, and Yamaha seemed to think it was.

 

Valves in spec...
Carbs clean... (three times)
Floats wet set at 2mm below the bolws. (ten hrs all perfect)
The only thing thats not new on the carbs are the air box to carb boots. Pass the propane and wd40 test.
Proper bench sync as well. Many times.
I'm at the point where I can take everything apart put it all back together and bench sync with my eyes closed. No joke. 8 months of going through this.
But not gonna quit.
Turned to the manual and performed everything matinence related. Except my front brake. Which why should I do it if the bike dont run right anyways. Lol.
Tried syncing with the Morgan carb tune which I was able to get everything in sync. (with the yics tool blocking the yics and without).
Still runs like crap.
I've tried everything that everyone has said and more and multiple times.
I don't have a float level tool but if I get the fuel levels all the same with the clear tube method they should be good right??
Really I'm running out of ideas. I'm starting to think about going through the electrical system (which looks good). Could anything with the electrical or exhaust system cause a hanging idle?
It only want to idle at 1000 or above 2000rpms.
Thanks for all the help everyone I'll keep at it. But at some point I might have to turn to the M word. (mechanic). So I can waste some money that I don't have for someone that doesn't no what there doing... to tell me THEY DON'T NO... Lol
Ps. New plugs and caps from Len. Cut the wires a 1/4 inch back as well .

 

Well called a mechanic 50$ he comes over and weather it takes 20 min or 8 hrs and if he can't fix it then it's free. He said he's booked for the next 4 days. Good sign??? Guaranteed he's not a xj mechanic but seems to think something's up with the carbs. what's there to loose 50$ and he fixes it or I pay nothing have have the same problem.
Any thoughts.

 

The Lady next-door to me is a Witch.
She says she'll remove any curses on the bike for $75.00
She's booked 'til after Halloween.

 

Thoughts?

I dunno, want a broken float pillar or two?

"He's not an XJ mechanic." No kidding. He won't fix it and could very well do damage.

Personally, I think it's a bad idea and I wouldn't let him touch the bike. You know more than he does at this point.

You're either not in sync, have a vacuum leak (did you change the little rubber vacuum port caps?) or the float levels aren't properly set to spec even though you think they are OR you've got leaks between the valve seats and the carb bodies (new o-rings there?)

Pilot screws removed, new o-rings; all passages flushed and all set at 3 turns out?

You took the carbs completely down, removed the butterflies and replaced the throttle shaft seals?

HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSION TEST ON THIS MOTOR? If not, do so and report back.

We'll figure it out. Don't pay some numbnuts to F* up your bike.

 

Like Fitz said, you know more than a non-XJ mechanic....this guy will probably try to get you for some money whether he fixes or not......be leary of him....I am in San Diego in the La Mesa area.....you and I are XJ mechanics.....self taught from a lot of advise from here.....

Cancel your appt with this guy.....this guy was probably standing on the median yesterday panning for money.....

LOL

 

Remember too, you can vacuum sync it to within a silly millimeter and a bad float level or a misbehaving pilot circuit can imbalance it. A truly good sync is a combination of vacuum and mixture synchronizations; one cylinder too rich or too lean can hang your idle even if the vac sync is solid. And a float can bite you if your pilots are fine. Or vice-versa.

In my own case it was float levels that needed to be revisited...

 

XJrider92117,

You can upgrade to my Xj750 Maxim when I get it running.....j/k....when your bike & mine is dialed in....we will have to take a ride up to the Laguna Mtn's ....what do you think.....a pack of 2 bikers......no wheelies on sidewalks , no brake checking in front of SUV's.....just a fun ride up to the local smokies....

Hope you get it dialed in soon.....I am almost there...about a month away for me...maybe...

 

oh yea, carbs. Pilots, vac sync, float. got a total of 50 miles on my beast and all in diagnostic miles. Hopefully Jan, feb, and march will give me the time to tear my carbs aprt and re-do last summers disaster.

I wanna be a rider not a mechanic ..... guess what, I'm doing nothing but mechanic work.

Maybe the bike gods with help next summer.

 

Rick if I still can't figure this out after Halloween I may need the witches #.

Well I've been talked out of the machinic...

Carbs are already off. I will revisit the the fuel levels.

Question... If my fuel levels are in spec and all the same then all my floats are all the same correct???

Vacuum caps new pilots screws removed and oring replaced. New throttle shaft seals. Fuel rails oring as well.

Dmlyster... I feel you man.

Five... It's almost winter don't we have to put the bikes away.... O wait. We're in sd and its 70 degrees all winter long. Just gotta watch out for 10 days of rain that will be coming at some point. All jokes aside a ride is kinda far from my mind you sound closer than I am. But YES at some point a ride would be cool.

Thanks again everyone will report back.

 

can anyone enlighten me on this little tab. Its on the right
hand side. When the floats fill up this litte tab sits on the float pillar. I cant find any info on it. Still messing with fuel levels. When i bend the tang arm it doesn't seem to change anything. Any info would be great.

Thanks

 

that little tang stops the floats from going down too far and getting stuck down there. they come into play if you ever run out of gas

 

I have the same issue of reving to 3000 rpm and slow to idle down, but I havent replaced the seals yet. They are on the way. Hope you resolve your issue.

 

Nothing at all wrong with that, but a 30 year old bike wouldn't be the way to go. Anyone who just wants to ride should buy late model bikes.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14581.html

 

The thing is, if you're willing to put forth some serious effort and are very thorough to begin with, you can "just ride it." Within 1980's parameters of course.

Yes, there is maintenance that needs to be done, like any high-performance machine. But checking the valve clearances every 5000 miles, changing the oil and filter, and feeding it tires and sparkplugs on occasion is about IT if you did a proper recommissioning.

Done, right, it's like having a new 198x Yamaha. Lots of riding, very little work.

But you do have to sink a lot of time and effort into it up front. Otherwise it becomes an ongoing battle, which isn't any fun after very long.

And if doing it right means your skillset needs to expand, what's the harm in that? I've been doing this for over 40 years, and I'm still learning new things in the process.

 

Basically your born with it or not. Sad to say many people aren't. Especially if this is your first go around. It can be frustrating. This is the first bike (besides a dirt bikes) that I have ever worked on. It can be challenging the first time I took apart the carbs I was a little nervous. But I got it all back together which most people that were around to see them apart said I would never get them back tegether. Well I did and it's runs. The same people said the same about valves. Did it which was pretty easy after you get the tool down. If you dont want to do the work buy a new bike they'll do your oil charges for you as well. When you need some real matinence done to it you can park it on the side of your house for the next 25 yrs...

but enough about that...

I talking fuel levels...
Here's what ive been going off... http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf
Any tips shoot them my way...
And I have the ruler if anyone was curious...

Anyone ever get air into the clear tube when measuring the fuel levels?
I put a golf tee in the vacuum line from the petcock I think that stopped the air bubbles that were getting into the line but not sure. And a golf tee in the clear tube until I crack the drain plug.

 

I question that statement. I think some people are more developmentally directed towards mechanical tinkering, but it's a skillset and can/is learned. Certain brain physiology is helpful, such as the spacial reasoning that is arguably stronger in males than females (studies still aren't definitive), but as a skill it's still about the time spent on it. Anecdotally, I'm a perfect example...knew bupkus about bikes mechanically a few years ago and now I'm competent, thanks to this site and the members as mentors.

I don't disagree that some people aren't interested in that, which is why I say if you just want to RIDE and not be involved with the bike mechanics, these old bikes aren't the way to go. Life is pretty short, so it pays to do what you enjoy doing with your free time before you become worm food.

Unless you're lucky enough to live next to Fitz tho, I hear he'll rebuild your bike for beer. Or was that Eco?

 

I was talking about having the patients and willingness learn. Some people can and some can't. I think that most people here do have it that's why there here. And the people that come on this web site that don't... Don't stick around very long. When someone comes on this site and says my bike doesn't run right help... (kinda like me). How long is the check list? It get pretty long very quick. It doesn't take long to scare someone away that doesn't have the patients or willingness to learn. Is all I'm saying. And they sell there bike.

Back to my fuel levels.

 

Recently done...

Reset all fuel levels (meaning I f'ed them all up on purpose so I had to do them all over)... Then went and adjusted them all 2ml below...
Why... I don't no but I'm 150% sure they are all right at 2ml. (took some time)

Bench sync... When I put the carb tune on them I didn't even bother adjusting them cause they were so close.

Propane test for so long I thought the garage was gonna blow.

Rechecked the gaps on all brand new spark plugs. Along with new caps and clipped a 1/4 inch. Off all wires.

Checked the battery running at 2000 rpms it read 14.63...
Not running DCV 20 it's 12.3
I think that's good although I'm not very familiar with the electrical system on these bike. But from what I read this should be good.

I don't no what to do next. I've read that people that have to clean there carbs 1,2,3 or 4 time didn't do it right the first time... I've done it twice but I've never cleaned carbs before. Started with boiling them then air through them all then carb cleaner through them all. After a few squirts of carb cleaner to the eyes... Now I wear glasses. Then I dipped them for a few hrs each. Air then carb cleaner... The thing is the carbs never looked dirty. I no that the eyes can't see every tiny port but... They really didn't look dirty. And yes I changed every rubber o ring in the carbs and all jets that were damaged they were replaced. I've applies marvel mystery oil on the throttle shaft to ensure they completely return proplerly. The bike only wants to idle 1000 or below or 2000 and above. I've had so help along the way with some members via pm. One said that 1 or 2 cyclinders wasn't firing until it hit the 2000 rpm but if I start it at 1000 rpms for 30 seconds all exhaust pipes are hot... I wish they all weren't firing then I'd no what the problem was.

What's up next to try???????

I have a day off tomorrow. I had two off last month. Lol. I would like to try something different before I completely tear the carb back down. The only thing I can think of is I need a wire to probe every port???

I could go on 4ever what I've tried but I'm just got off work and I'm tried and hungry hahahaha.

Any thoughts would be great... Thank you everyone you for putting up with me and my sad story of the xj that doesn't idle correctly.

Will not give up till I can ride with the wind.

Thanks again
Jim.

Ps... I've learned some much. Valves out of spec. Now in spec. Most o rings looked like crap now all new. I had to ez out many jets all that needed to be change have been. And nothing has changed the way it idles.... Crazy!!!!!!

 

Wait whoa stop.

You dipped and boiled them. They were torn ALL the way down, butterflies removed, etc? So, new throttle shaft seals, right?

When you put the butterflies back in, did you pay uber-close attention to their orientation? Mikuni butterflies aren't flat on the edges like a coin; they're beveled to fit the carb throat when closed and only go in one way.

DON'T USE WIRE to go probing about in the carbs, you can internally scratch things and screw up flow. Use a nylon brush bristle plucked from your parts-cleaning brush. If you don't have a nice big stiff nylon parts cleaning brush, go drop $3 at the auto parts.

I'm almost beginning to think we've got a mechanical issue with the rack. However, it's also possible you've still got some varnished-up passages despite all of the attention paid to the carbs so far. Have a look at this for a better understanding of why they're so hard to get cleaned out: http://www.xj4ever.com/inside%20your%20carbs.pdf

Have you replaced the gaskets between the intake manifolds and the head yet?

 

excellant pictorial of inside the Hitachi & Mikuni carbs.....

Thanks Fitz for sharing......very interesting reading.....

 

Thanks for the reply fitz.

I've seen that write up and now I have It saved.

The carb were torn all the way down. New seals and o rings.

The butterflies went back in the same way that they came out.

I won't go probing around with a wire.

Mechanical issue...

I've check for carb misalignment and anything binding/sticking or anything like that.
Anything mechanical issue that I should be looking for????

The intake gaskets have been replaced...

Any other thoughts before they come apart again.

Thanks again for the help.

 

They came apart again. Not bad I'm getting pretty good at it. Dipped them for 4 hrs each (then air then carb cleaner then air rinse off with water then air each one). They look good.

Couple things. I didn't lube the throttle shafts but I will take them off again and do it not a problem.

I broke a idle mixture screw o ring so i got 4 new ones and new manifold vacuum port plugs all from chacal . (thanks chacal) My carb rebuild kit didn't come from him and you can see the difference in size in the pic below. Any thoughts?

Got it all back together and... still needs to be synced. I tried but I don't feel like I can leave the blocking tool in long enough without melting the orings. I sparyed wd40 all over it. Any thoughts. I try syncing them without the blocking tool in to get it close then using the blocking tool but i still don't have it synced correctly. (I hope) Any tricks to leaving the tool in longer than 2 mins? I'll give it another go either tomorrow after work or Sunday. But it is really close.


All in all it does run better then before instead of a hanging idle (were it would jump to were ever it wanted slowly come down and want to die) it has more of a hesitation (for a second) and then comes back down and stays right above 1000 rpms. So i think thats a plus just a little more work and it should be good to go (after colortune). Hopefully!!!!

Anyone ever use Sil-Glyde. Napa part. Is it the same as silicone grease?

 

I bet the smaller o-ring is from Chacal. Is that right? You may have much better luck if his are the correct ones for your carbs....

It appears the other ones were much bigger? Not sure how you even got them in there? But I am not familiar with the 550 thou.....

Good luck with Chacal's o-rings.

That is what I use: Sil-Glyde...from Napa...coated throttle shaft seals & fuel o-rings with that.....

I would not use it on the pilot mixture O-ring at all.......

 

The smaller one is from Chacal. The original one is very close to Chacal's but it was flat on one side. Don't no if that's how they came or if it was just wear. I feel way more confident with his though. The others were almost 2 mm larger.

I coated everything with the silicone grease from xj4ever. Someone gave me that sil-glyde.

Five it also sounds like when I need my shocks done I'll just bring them over to u lol!!!!!!

 

You idle problem could very well be improper pilot mixture o-rings......

You are not going to go wrong with parts from Chacal....

I would not coat the pilot mixture o-rings with Sil-Glyde.....you don't want to plug that orifice with grease.....but check with Fitz on that....

I put mine in dry......



My front shocks were no problem with guidance from Fitz, Rick & others.....

Now I am unto the steering column....I will be upgrading from ball to tapered bearings....another order going into Chacal.....

When does the bleeding stop......???? Not from Chacal.....but from myself.....I just want to do things right & upgrade parts if I have to....

Almost there......but have all the time to take it slow.......the weather here in SoCal is advantageous to us.....while others have to park it for months at a time.....

I can help you with shocks when it comes time......I am here in the La Mesa area & you are in the Kearny Mesa Area....very, very close....

 

RE: spraying your YICS blocking tool with WD40: bad idea.

WD40 is a water-displacement spray (WD) and nothing else. It's not a good lubricant, it gums up quickly and is NOT the least bit heat-resistant. Never use it as a cable lube. It's ONLY good for driving moisture out of wet parts, other than that it doesn't belong in the garage.

But--- what engine heat resistant lubricant DO we have laying around the garage? Hmmm... motor oil?

Lube your YICS tool with motor oil.

 

How is it that this person done all of this stuff and the bike still won't idle. This makes no sense at all that these bike won't run right. I read another one today that was having the same issues. Not running right after doing a bunch of stuff to the bike. I read about this YICS crap and Honda did the same thing in their cars. I had a 1983 Honda Prelude that had motorcycle carbs and a sub carb that fed a pre-combustion chamber. The idea behind this was a small rich mixture would ignite a lean mixture in the main combustion chamber. This car NEVER idled correctly. Even though I would clean it in a parts cleaner. This is when I went to school and the teacher said he never seen anything like this. I really think is the problem these bikes. This thing with the shimming of the valves when you have great compression is for the birds. I am in my 40's and have NEVER seen such poorly designed motorcycle in my life. My opinion.

 

thank you for your opinion, now go outside and play

 

atland,

with 19 posts, you don't know much about these bikes......these bikes run fine once properly maintained......

Please stick to buying Honda cars......

 

You're in your 40s and you spew garbage like a 13 year old on a tantrum.

 

Doing a bunch of stuff ≠ fixing all of the underlying issues that are caused by various owners putting off maintainance for 30 years. Motorcycles are among the most abused peices of machinery every developed. Most people sell them on before having done any maintainance on them, then the next owner does the same. The greatest challenge in recomissining anything is finding ALL of the problems that have been caused by age, neglect, and abusive owners. Most people want to buy a bike that's ready to ride, but no used bike really is ever ready to ride as sold; particularly not when it's more than 10 years old.

As for, "This thing with the shimming of the valves when you have great compression is for the birds."

Think for a moment about what happens when an exhaust valve won't open. What happens to the compression numbers? What happens to combustion?

 

I am living proof of being an original owner of my bike for 30+ yrs. Yrs of neglect by me have led to myself putting in a lot of time & money.

You name it, I am doing it, even prior to thinking about hitting that start button.

People that do not want to work on these bikes need to go to the Yamaha showroom floor & spend 8k to 14k for one that runs immediately....

These people have no patience for tinkering with old machinery......

Ah....the virtues of knowing your bike inside & out after doing your own maintenence.

 

Just a flamer...someone who lurks blogs, becomes a member and then makes statements to inflame the members into arguments. So treat them the same way you would treat a child throwing a temper tantrum.....ignore them.

 

I could spend $500 and the bike still wouldn't start. Replacing those intake boots, carb rebuild kits, oil, oil filter, and spark plugs. How is it Bruce that you have so much more experience than what I do but you can't get the bike to idle? Could it be it's true that these carbs are really junk like I say they are? See I read what you guys say. I look at the PDF files where they cut the junky Hitachi carbs apart and show you how they in theory should operate. You guys are nuts spending money on overpriced parts. All I was trying to do is point the facts out to you that you guys talk about on this site. Had I know about this bike and all it's poor engineering I would have NEVER purchased it. Sorry folks the XJ bikes are the Edsel of the motorcycle world.

 

Umm... no they're not.

And we've been over this too many times already. You're right about one thing: YOU should never have purchased an XJ.

Sell the bloody thing and be done with it; it's "above your pay grade."

 

I think this wins quote of the month. =)

Do you really think you are going to get anywhere, make any friends, or change anybody's mind, by coming into a DEDICATED SPECIALTY FORUM FOR ONE SPECIFIC MOTORCYCLE THAT WE ALL LOVE, and trying to bash on it for being junk?

Lemme guess, probably just another old bigot who thinks it's junk cause it's some "Jap crap" while you clearly have no mechanical sense, or even common sense.

I might go easier on you if you hadn't already stated that you should have at least 13+ more years of maturity and experience than I should have.
(Also, learn when to break for a new paragraph, it makes it easier to read)

Go buy a frakin Harley. Those people could use another of your kind.