cant get my idle

Fiveofakind thanks for the right up... What up SD.

Got everything back together. Still can't get a good consistent idle. Should I just go ahead and try to sync them or am I just gonna be fighting a loosing battle? With a good bench sync I shouldn't be that far off. Right? I can go ride around the block to warm it up enough. Just not sure what to do.

Thanks again.

 

Valves in spec, float levels wet set to spec and as good of a bench sync as you can get?

Block the YICS and vacuum sync it. Then if it still won't behave you'll need to revisit the carbs and check very carefully for vacuum leaks.

 

Valves in spec
Floats wets set and in spec
Bench sync I'm sure its close is just think it should run better.

Vacuum leaks? First thought the boots. Engine side new. Sprayed wd40 and carb cleaner on the air box side. Nothing. New hose from the petcock to the boot. The caps old a little hard but I think that there still good and don't leak. But I will change them tomorrow. Any other places I should be looking at.

Thinking about going with the homemade manometer. Yics blocked with a t shirt. Any thoughts?

 

It is more money to be spent......but I would suggest buying a Morgan Carbtune Pro manometer ( $114) , a YICS sync tool ($40), & a Gunson colortune plug ($58) from Chacal.....that way you will always have it.....

Did you change your throttle shaft seals & fuel O-rings ???????

I am in the La Mesa aea......92117 seems to be in the Clairemont or Kearny Mesa area.....

I will PM you...we can exchange phone numbers if you want

 

Went to sync my carbs... Pull off the vacuum cap on the carb boots and the hole valve came out with it. Just another problem. They are pretty much brand new. What type of glue or epoxy should i use to get it back in there?

After I let the bike idle for 10-15 min the bike starts to idle higher without any throttle. I dont no if its cause the bike is now fully warmed up and out of sync.

Rick said a while ago to. "Something" is opening the Throttles.
Try touching the Sync Screws with a Tuning Screwdriver and see if the Linkage is binding.

When i touch that sync screw with some pressure applied the idle will go down. Why???? If they were binding why would it do it with no throttle given and only when its warm. Its fine when its cold. This is making my head spin. Any help is very appreciated.

 

If applying a bit of pressure to the linkages brings-down the Idle, ... something is hindering the Throttles to close.

The alignment may be askew.
There might a swollen seal.
The Handlebar Control might be tugging the Cable.
The Wire Cable might be frayed.
The Shafts might need lube.

Before I remount Carbs, I stand them on-end and lube the Shafts with Marvel Mystery Oil.
Then, I flip them over and do the other side.

I make sure there isn't anything keeping the Butterfly's from unrestricted movement.

Detach the Throttle Cable and see if that's your problem.
There's a Cable Slack Knurl on the Elbow where the Cable enters the Grip Housing.

The Grip Housing might be too tilted.
The Cable might be tight.
The Carbs might not be fully seated in the Manifolds.
The Manifold Clamps sometimes foul the Linkage from moving all the way shut.

There is also the possibility of an "Occult Air Leak"
A leak that does not reveal itself during routine troubleshooting.

The Manifolds have untreated Paper Gaskets; but rely upon Rubber O-type Rings to make the Manifold to Head mate air-tight.
Time renders those O-rings capacity to seal the joint ineffective when they become old, pressed, brittle and hardened.

You might have Air getting-by one moment and not the next.

Be careful!!!

Most people try tightening the Manifold Cap Bolts.
Those Cap Bolts are dirt-cheap soft-steel. Crap.
Installed during the build without treatment, they commonly seize.
BUT, ... they ACT like they are turning.
They are NOT turning.
They're TWISTING!!!

Without warning they SNAP.

A snapped Manifold Cap Bolt is a NIGHTMARE of the first magnitude!
A genuine Twilight-Zone Summer Buzz-killer.

 

I suggest you replace the caps that you say are hard but still LOOK good. Mine looked good too but I was having a H*ll of a time doing my vacuum sync. Couldn't get it right. Finally someone, on the forum, suggested I replace them. I did and after that EVERYTHING worked out. They where leaking and everything I did to detect a leak did NOT show that they where leaking. Get new ones and new clamps and replace them. This is one of those little things that should be replaced when someone buys one of these old bikes. And don't use automotive caps they do not stand up to the heat from the engine. I know I tried them don't last more then a few hours of riding.

 

Thanks for the reply Rick. I'll check all that stuff.

Ground-Hugger thank you as well. Yes i did replace them... And yes I did get them from a auto parts store and i did notice them being a little thin. I will get some from Chacal.

Does anyone no what the torque specs on the manifolds (carb holders/boots...) should be. Can't find anything in my manual or here.

Thanks again.

 

Which manual?

7.2 ft/lb. You really need an inch-pound torque wrench for the small stuff; so in in/lbs that would be 86.4 in/lb. (I just go with 86.)

If you're bumping along with the Clymer, PM me with an email address and I'll send you the relevant pages from the factory Max supplement.

 

I go with "Hand-tight"

I rather have to re-tighten them a dozen times, ...

Than have one strip or break ... once!

 

Well here we go again... Saw a post about spark plugs and caps. I bought news caps awhile ago. Well before I ever new about this website. I never check to see if they had resisters in them. Well 2 of them don't. I think this might be playing a major problem. Anyone have any input about running the bike with 2 caps with resisters and 2 without. I only can assume that it is not a good thing. Can I just pick up some NGK caps W/ resisters in them or do I need OEM parts. Thanks again.

 

Same difference. NGK caps ARE OE.

Get ahold of XJ4Ever (PM member chacal) if you want the correct parts for your 550. The 550s had two different styles of plug caps, one for #1 and #4 and a different style for the "inboards" #2 and #3.

STOCK, you want 10K Ohm caps on all four and NGK D8EA (NOT "R") plugs.

 

Thanks Fitz... Parts are on the way... Anyone no what effect there will be on the motor while running 5K OHM spark plug caps. How would the bike run while running those caps. Just wondering cause my idle is still hang up. I don't think that the caps would have anything to do with it.

 

I had a few issues with my carbs. but with diligence I cleared all that ailed them. If you want you can PM me. I live only about 100 miles from you. I can bring all the toys down there and get you straight. My bike now has 93,000 on frame and about 70,000 on motor & gets ridden to work 80% of the time to the tune of about 85 miles a day.

 

Back again and with the same problem. Got everything to proplerly sync the carbs. Morgan carb sync and the yics blocking tool. Let the bike warm up good with a fan on the motor. Go to sync them while giving a little gas every few seconds or so. Got them all just about the same read gave it a couple revs and they were all off again. Shut it down removed the yics tool. Turned to the wizards for some advise??? Anything helps. And I will give it another shot later today or in the morning. Obviously I'm missing something just can't figure it out. And it's driving me nuts. Thanks for any info.

 

Well had a bad back lately so haven't had much time to do anything on the bike but today felt better so I pulled the carbs rechecked the fuel levels with a clear tube method. I marked a spot on the clear tube to hold against the carb then mark -2 mm lower where the fuel level should be. All were perfect.

Went on to the bench sync with a business card they all looked good.

Carbs back on bike turn it on pri for a few seconds turn it on and it starts racing (4000 rpms is not a idle). With the bike back on (ON) once the fuel runs out of the bowls it just dies. Already rebuilt the petcock. Then when I saw fitz's write up went back to make sure everything was all good and it checked out fine. Theres plenty of vacuum suction coming from the engine to the petcock. There is a inline fuel filter. But the should have anything to do with it. I think that I'm narrowing the problem down to this just can't figure it out.


So.... Any thoughts????? Running out of things to try.

Thanks for everyone's time.

 

a fat business card could get you a 4k idle if all four are hitting, did you try to turn it down?
a bench sync really only gets you through the gate but your still in left field.
don't pass judgement till you do a running sync.
put a length of hose on the vacuum port and the fuel line in a can and suck, if gas doesn't come out, it don't work.....rebuilt or not, sorry.

 

Thanks polock. Normal business card smaller than a paper clip.
Tried turning down the idle and it dies. But when the gas runs out of the bowls it also dies.

Tried a running sync but if it doesn't idle correctly I don't think you can get a proper sync. Right?

Don't b sorry I could careless if the petcock is bad. The fact that I have something new to try is great thanks.

I will try your suggestion with the gas tanks.

Thanks again. We will see what happens.

 

you can get a running sync if you start at 3k, just tweek and turn the idle down, repeat as necessary.
or you can get close if the engine isn't even running, starter only. but that wouldn't be good to do.

when i bench sync i use the holes in the carb and the gap is about 2 hairs

 

This is a really good tip that I learned from our friend of few words, Mr. P.

Instead of trying to use a "feeler" of any sort, look in the top of the carb throats with the throttles open. You'll see a series of tiny holes. Turn the idle screw in far enough that the #3 butterfly exposes the first tiny hole. You can set it so it "splits" the hole, or is at the back edge of it, whatever.

Then sync the others by matching each butterflies' relationship to the tiny hole to #3's. Get them exact and your vac sync will be just a "touch up."

Once they all match, open and close the throttles a few times, make sure they all still match and then turn the idle screw out so they all close. Make sure they all close.

Then run the idle screw back in so, as above, the gap is about 2 hairs.

I've used this method ever since Polock first mentioned it some years back and you can get a much more accurate bench sync than you can with any sort of feelers. Thanks again, P.