cant get my idle

On another thread, Someone bet that he is Stevo32 with a new login. I remember those posts - frickin hilarious.

Sure, they still make 1982 carbs for 2013 bikes.

I feel like I should agree with him. Ducati started as a vacuum tube maker for radios and Suzuki started as a silk loom maker. And we all know they make total garbage because of it.

 

And we continue... I can see the light. No really i can see the light. I tried loosen the screws and the to move the butterfly around with no luck. the idle adjustment screw is all the way backed off so they should be completely closed. They went back in the same way they came out. I cant see any noticable damage to them. Any thoughts?

Thanks again everyone!!!!!

 

Oh, and I didn't see anyone yet apologize to Xjrider92117 for the fiend that took over his thread, as he has done on ALL the other threads he posts to.

Sorry, Xjrider92117. I hope the helpful members can get you on the road. This forum is why I can ride to work every day right now.

Maybe start a new thread to get back to the issue. Good luck with it.

 

Not necessary. I've received pm's from people with support and wanting to no how to fix similar problems. This is a long thread lots question have been answered. This forum is to help people and once I figure this out hopefully someone else can learn from it. So I would like to finish this up.

Thanks ColoradoDan.

 

Is that butterfly on the wrong side of the throttle shaft?
(I'm probably wrong, that pic kinda threw me.)

 

oh...mine are idling now at 1050 rpms...and it has nothing to do with experience level. It has with rebuilding them correctly and accurately. Bouncing situations off of these other guys is based on the fact collectively we are all smarter than one.

You sir, should get rid of your bike, terminate any membership in any forum site that has anything to do with these bikes, and go fly a kite...

 

It's a Mikuni. The butterfly goes through a slot in the throttle shaft.

That butterfly doesn't fit for squat. If you're 100% sure it's in the right way, not upside down or backwards, then one begs the question: what befell the throttle shaft? Did you have a fight or get medieval removing the butterfly screws? If the throttle shaft is bent even slightly it won't sit in there correctly.

OR--

Did you mix parts up between carbs? Butterflies, throttle shafts, etc? Is each butterfly for sure back in its original carb?

 

The butterflies on all of them went back in the same exact way they came out. I have the pics to prove it. I took the first carb apart put it back together then 2 and 3 then the 4th for the very first time I took them apart. I had a hard time with one of the butterfly screws but it was either on the 2nd or 3rd carb. All of the other butterflies were tight coming out just work them back and forth and back forth and they came out. Nothing crazy though.

Throttle shafts... If one or more of them were bent wouldnt it be noticeable when opening and closing them???? Or maybe thats why they dont completly close. Each butterfly went back into the correct carb 100% sure. I can tear them all back down not a problem and check each throttle shaft.

Thanks

 

I feel your pain with these carbs of yours.....I hope you get your problem resolved soon.....those pilot o-rings could have been your problem as well....have you started the bike since replacing those o-rings ???

 

Five... it starts the second I touch the start button... Every time... Lol...

 

Even cold, and with little or no "choke?"

 

What I should have said it starts every time with full choke or close to full choke. I've tried on accident with no choke (cold) didn't start. Then I remember the choke is off and it starts up right away after I turn the choke on. The only time I really ever start it is when I've taking something apart and to try to see if something is different which is about five or six times a week. But I'm kinda running out of ideas...

Thanks
Jim.

 

These carbs require exactness in tolerances. From my experience recently, I took a fine running and idling bike, replaced the fuel rail seals and throttle shaft seals and opened a can of pandoras box voodoo stuff all over me and the shed. After removing the carbs and rechecking everything a number of times, without success it finally came down to realizing close is not close enough. The last attempt (7th removal of carbs) I loosed the rack, removed the tension on all throttle shaft springs and placed the carbs throttle body down on a flat piece of steel plate. Then I tightened the rack and made sure all four throttle bodies were flat to the steel. Then I loosen the screws on each butterfly one at a time and set the the butterfly in the throttle body so when closed they did not show any light coming around them at all. I used a very bright led flashlight in a darkened shed to make sure. I turned the idle adjustment knob and opened #3 butterfly so a 1/4" wide stripe of a business card fit underneath it. Reassembled the tension on the springs and bench sync'ed the rest. Remounted on bike, started no problem with full choke, took bike for twenty minute ride, came back and bike was idling high around 2200 rpms, used the idle adjustment knob to back down the idle and she is purring at 1050 rpms...

I now realize that these things need exactness....not real good, but exactness. Your bike is running and starting fine, low end idle is a problem if more air is being sucked into the motor, which is what brings in more fuel, which causes the high idle.

If you still have a high idle after this, do a propane test and see if you may have a manifold leak or one of your shaft seals isn't set correctly.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks Bruce.
Update time.

What I did was swap out butterfly valves #2 with #1 saw that it closed all the way. Bought a new one (from chacal) put it in and it runs now A LOT better now. Before as it warmed up the rpm's would follow. Ran it today for a half hour plus. Tried to sync it first with out the yics (to get it close) and then after it cooled I warmed it up again then tried with the yics blocked. But still as I give it gas I can here that around 2000 rpm's (as it drops back down) it just barely hesitates there not even for a second. So I think that it's still out of sync but VERY VERY close. What I need to do is go for a ride to really get it warmed up. But I cant cause my front brake is dragging. Not good ordered a rebuild kit today for it. I will rebuild m/c and get a new line but one thing at a time. So this is where I am. I've had some progress just some fine tuning I believe to finish up. It's all a process.

Thanks again everyone.
Jim

 

WHEW. THAT was a slog.

You shouldn't have to fart around with not blocking YICS, blocking YICS, etc., if you got a good solid bench sync. The key is getting the motor good and warm and yes, block YICS.

It's a 550. In the 550 motor, the YICS passages are actually physically larger than the YICS passages in some of the bigger motors. As such, they represent a much larger ratio, percentage wise, of intake flow than in the bigger motors which makes blocking the YICS that much more important that it is in a 650/750/900.

Yes, it is indeed a process. But you've made MAJOR progress having solved a mechanical issue that was blocking it.

Oh, and you're going to need to rebuild the caliper too. That's usually why they drag on a 550.

 

Hi , yes they are the same , 8 thou of a mm is no biggy . Since your gap is already at .10mm , you need to increase it by .05 of a mm ,to give you a.15 gap ,( .05 being the minimum step the shims come in ) therefore a shim of 265 ( 2.65 mm ) will give that . If you use the 260 (2.60 mm ) the gap will be .20 mm ,way to wide ( I,m assuming that we are talking inlet side here ). If you have the Haynes manual , it gives you a cross reference chart that makes it fairly simple. Hope that this helps , cheers , Murray

 

I missed that there were several pages to this thread and realised that the this had already been sorted . Forgive my seniors moment , and I will try to remember to take the medication , cheers, murray