carb advice?

I would suggest to use VITON O-rings. O-rings work well as soon as they are the right size but if you choose Viton they last forever. That is why Harleys have so much problem with O-orings because they use neopprene and that does not resist gas well. Yamaha and other Japanese bikes ususally use Viton that's why they last forever. I went to a specialized store where the only thing they have O-rings and they gave me all the orings for free. Otherwise I would it have to pay $1.25

My .02

 

Float Kits come with a Gasket and a Mixture Screw O-ring.
Remove Emulsion Tubes for thorough Cleaning.
Scrub or Polish Diaphragm Bores
Fuel Bowl Ports.
Flush Passages.

Go nuts.
Sonic Cleaning
Media Blasting and finishing.

 

my advice? Go to a friendly nieghborhood dealership and buy a fuel injected bike and go out and ride while the weather is still nice. I say this as i am looking at my carb rack trying to remember which jets go where- got my carb parts order from Chacal today.

 

ONLY A FEW MINUTES LATER: i just dropped my carb rack and BENT the little brass pipe coming out of the bottom of one of my carb bodies....UUUUGGGGHHHH! i screamed in a way that may lead my neighbors to believe that i am dangerous in ways that i am not. I have bent it back but now it has a hairline crack!

I stand by my previous statement about fuel-injected bikes.

 

LOL. I was a hair away from buying a brand new FZ1 myself a few weeks ago. But not as a replacement, only as a supplement to the Maxim. I wound up with a 2002 model instead. You can't beat $3100 and $98 a year in insurance for a bike that requires much less attention.

But when it comes to working on anything mechanical, you have to make sure you set aside the time, and that you have the dedicated work space to do it right. Otherwise, you are just going to wind up flustered.

 

i do not mean to steal this thread, but.....since the title is accurate i will go ahead. Now that i am putting things back together, the rubber diaphrams don't want to stay put in thier rings while i fit the carb "hats". any ideas how to make them do so?

 

well dont know what good an ASSORTMENT of o-rings will do for you but hey its your money. You need to be very specific as there are only 3 different sizes of o-rings inthe carb itself. one size for the fuel linkage rods,one size for the enrichment circuit plunger and one size for the idle mixture screw. All of these o-rings are on the site catalogue in the carb section and are very specifically sized for your needs,not a hodgepodge of MAYBE i can use these....gets extras sure they are cheap enough in to do that if u wish to. other than those items and the retaining washer inside the enrichment circuit plunger as recommended replacement the rest u can put back as cleaned used parts cause unless the springs are rusted to cr** u can reuse them,as well as all the screws but many folks recommend changing the bowl screws to allen head for ease of changing to adjust the float height afterwards. a new carb rebuild kit has a new needle,needle seat and retaining hanger with a gasket in the kit. REMEMBER i told u to get the ones with the replacement screens as your BEST OPTION at a very small diff in price. a gasket alone is an option if u wish to proceed that way,but chacal has the OEM kits with OEM needles and as noted in the aftermarket ones the needles tend to run 1 mm larger,so its your call what u wanna do.
IF you MUST have these items then get them. If your carbs are not all that dirty then get them in advance,if they are very dirty then a 3 day carb dip would be an option to help clean out the gunk. i had one carb bowl that had something in it and i soaked it 4 days and i got the enrichment hole opened up properly,no idea what was stoppin it up but something was and 1 day in the dip did NOTHING. also ANY rubber or plastic item CANNOT be dipped or it will be ruined. (o-rings,end plastic washers onthe throttle shaft,etc...)
In my humble opinion that is about all u will need for a successful rebuild. GOOD LUCK

 

SILICONE GREASE, NOT petroleum based as the petro mizture breaks down the rubber. silicone grese is available at any hardware plumbing supp;y section.dont bother your aotu parts guy unless u want silicone spray lube which will not help u.....

 

NAPA sells silicone grease. And you can use petroleum grease on your carb parts despite what many people say. I have always used regular old Vaseline and have not had to replace any of the rubber on my carbs due to breakdown. And I have had them apart for cleaning about five times since I bought the bike in 1998. It seems like every time I get a new bike, the Maxim gets neglected and I wind up having to clean it back up again.

If you think about, all the rubber on your carbs are fuel resistant, even if they are not directly immersed in fuel because they are still exposed to fuel or fuel vapors in some way. Fuel and petroleum grease come from the same place. So to say that you can't put pet on carb parts seems kind of silly.

I also worked on helicopters in the Marine Corps, and the maintenance instruction manuals also called for pet when installing seals and o-rings.

 

thats me silly me always silly from the silly farm silly as can be silly silly sillly

 

I get the Diaphragm Rubbers to stay-put by smearing the locating channel with Waterproof Synthetic Grease.
Just enough to hold it Rubber in place while the Hat goes on.

Straighten-out the Brass Siphon Tube.
Use Needle-nose to "round" the tube again.
Slip a short length of Brass Tubing you can get at a Hobby Shop ... down, over the kinked and split area ... and "Sweat" the Brass Sleeve on the broken tube.

 

Gee guess that 3 day carb dip is a GOOD IDEA THEN??? And some cheap o-rings?or better quality viton? yeah thats breakin the bank for sure.

 

The O-rings for the Pilot Mixture Screws come with the Carb Kit.
You also get a New Gasket.

If this is your first time tackling a Carb Cleaning Job, ... just Clean the Carbs and components without breaking the rack.

After you get YOUR Carbs Cleaned and ret-tuned; buy a "Parts Carbs" off eBay and PRACTICE the moves and learn the small-parts placement needed to split the rack and replace Throttle Seals.

Unless they are filthy with varnish they shouldn't NEED 3-days dipped.
Overnight in a safety dip that won't dissolve the Seals is fine.
The actual cleaning is not performed by the dip.
The dip loosens foreign matter for you to scrape or spray-off.

 

Just wanted to add that the little hole in the side needs to be solder-free, as this is an emulsion tube, and if you didn't fix it, or if the tube is blocked, then your bike would still cold-start on 3 CYL.

It's obvious that the "O" rings are fuel proof and that dime-store "O" rings are a recipe for disaster. Hey, and how about some brand new fuel line and a paper filter !

 

This is exactly what I was looking for.

 

I'm glad you found what you were looking for, but you don't "NEED" any of that stuff unless you find it bad.