Carb cleaning adventure/questions thread!

Although seemingly trivial, this is a BIG help. (...which is why at least four of us have recommended this.)

Worse case scenario, you swap the bowl with the stripped screw with its "partner" (same side so the screws face out) and use the "unbuggered" bowl to adjust that carb too.

 

They are often part of old fashioned auto parts stores. Not chain stores. You also check Google map or the phone book for "machine shops".

 

Ya I definitely did that, seems like I'm being brushed off. Guess I could just show up with 10 bucks in hand. I simply need one screw extracted

Fitz, yea that's what I was thinking about doing. But does that mean I'll have to pull the rack every single time i check a carb and turn it upside down to drain the bowl I can't drain with a tube?

 

i'll send you a good one if you send me that one, i am a machine shop, if i can't fix that one i'll have fun watching the mill eat it

 

I took a Cylinder Head with two snapped-off Intake Manifold Cap Screws to the nearby Vocational Tech High School.

The Machine Shop Faculty head said they'd bail me out for a donation to the Departments "Expendables" Fund.

25-Bucks donated.
Perfect job.

 

You could set #1, 2, 3, and skip 4.

Then swap Bowls to do #4.

 

So I got this screw out! Went to home depot and got a #1 screw extractor. Had the 7/16 bit at home. Drilled into her, pounded the extractor into the newly created hole, but my drill didnt have enough torque to turn it.... hit it with the torch and was very patient with the drill. After about 10 minutes she turned right out!



Rick when you said to do 1, 2, and 3, then swap and do number 4. Don't you have to fill with gas with all bowls on. check say #1 with clear tubing. Then drain all the bowls, take off rack, turn rack upside down, unscrew bowl 1, make adjustments, repeat?? Or are you guys not even taking the carbs off the stand after each pass? If that's the case how on earth are you pulling the floats, adjusting, putting pin back in and checking again? upside down?

Thanks again for all the help thus far, I'm getting really close to putting these back on the bike. My lower end rebuild kit should be here tomorrow from Len.

If the bike still doesnt start when I push the button and I have to crank the throttle to get her going, I'll take a video so you guys can hear/see and maybe give me some ideas. I'm thinking its carb related cuz I can fire her right up if I give it a good bit of throttle WHILE pushing start.

 

Ahhh....see Patience has its rewards......Congrats on the extraction......successful surgery I see......now replace with allen head type & you will never have that problem again.......

Throw those right in the trash can...at least that one......

 

here was my setup for wet-setting.....no need to take off rack & turn upside down....just drain them & remove bowl.....take float off...& tweak the "tang" if necessary...reassemble , put bowl back on .....refill & measure with clear tubing against float bowl.....3mm + or - 1 mm from top of float bowl....

Take your time & do the wet-set correctly & bench sync ( since you did not break the rack, there may be no need to bench sync....check with fitz or rick on that thou )......it started before so there may be no need to bench sync....GOOD LUCK....

 

Five, thanks man. That's a pretty awesome set up man! Here's where I'm confused. So all 4 bowls are on. I fill with gas and check carb 1. I see it needs adjustment. I drain carb 1, I can't just take the bowl off right since gas is still connected? I have to drain ALL the carbs and shut off fuel somehow correct?

Also, yes it started, however, the button doesnt start the bike (that would be a dream come true) I had to push the start button while simultaneously pulling throttle pretty hard 3 or 4 times, then it would fire up. At that point I need to do 2 or 3 more throttle pulls to keep her alive. Once up and running, she'd idle really nice. Does that sound like what I'm doing now will fix that? Seriously, if it starts when I push the button I'll be so friggin happy!

Ahh, one more thing. I'm getting new float bowl gaskets from Len. Should i install those last after I do all my wet setting? With all the taking off and re installing, I think I should use the old one while I do that, no?

 

I would use the old gaskets for wet-setting....why do you have to drain all 4 bowls.....do one at a time......do carb # 1 until you are satiisfied it is correct.....measure #1....if not happy with measurement.....clamp fuel line with needle nose vice grips.....drain #1...take #1 bowl off...take float off...tweak "tang"...put #1 bowl back on.....release vice grips to refill & check level.....repeat process until satisfied.....

Move on to Carb #2.....then #3.....then #4....

 

Ahh, gotcha, I'll be using my actual yamaha tank since I have nothing else. That has an off switch

So this is all done essentially upside down then? I'll have to get good at pulling that pin from a completely different angle! I know that float needle has to go straight in. Its gonna be a juggling act keeping that needle on the tang and inserting it "upwards" into its valve seat! Looking forward to getting this part out of the way too.

Any thoughts on the start button issue, think it's carb related?

 

Once carbs are back on bike, if bench sync is in order, full choke will open the starter enrichment circuits ( you know...your 10 ft spray that you achieve ) & hitting the start button should fire the bike up....you may have to throttle it once maybe.....

 

You are wet-setting these "off the bike"....Is that correct ? Just checking ???

LOL....

You are actually wet-setting them they way the carbs are when they are on the bike.....

When wet-setting carbs, have them at a level that is comfortable for you, shoulder level or higher so you are not constantly bending over to unscrew bowls & re-attaching them....

just make sure tank is higher than carbs so fuel flows.....

a pair of needle nose vice grips are handy for fuel shutoff...but your petcock valve should work.....

Have fun.....

 

The enrichment circuits were spotless already, that's what worries me...

Lol and yes, wet setting will be done off the bike I got all my PVC today to build my rack stand

 

Take a pic of your PVC stand when complete....curious how it turns out....keep in mind......all you need is 2 "junk intake manifold boots" and 2 x 4 in the future.....& a vise.....

Just an idea to keep in mind.....

 

Five, I don't have the intake boots, nor do I have a vise... That's why I went the PVC route. I do like your setup a lot, but I just don't have the required items! I'll take a pic of it when its done. There's a thread floating around here that shows pics of exactly what I'm going to attempt to create.

 

OK, I built this pvc stand from the link given to me earlier. The 1 1/4" pvc won't hold the carbs up at all! I only have about an inch from the intake heads to the solid carb body, and these fit very loosely... any ideas on how to get these to stay up on the stands? I really need to wet set and the pvc stand is the only option I have available right now.

Thanks!

 

finishing your cleaning, a nice sync, and tuning will fix that right up....

AND/OR

you still have slightly clogged enrichment circuit passages

once your carbs are cleaned and bench sync'ed.... that's your starting point for tuning. Don't expect it to run perfectly right now. You're jumping the gun....

I found it easier to do all 4 at once. Do whatever works for you bro. There's no right or wrong way on this one, just preference. You are making this harder than it is..... It's like asking what are the perfect pizza toppings, you're gonna get 1000 different answers. You have a manual + haynes. They tell you procedures not to deviate from....

Also, just a tip, on the float bowl screws, only use 2 screws on a diagonal while wet-setting... makes it one hell of a lot easier