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carb second level of H*ll

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by scrubby, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    Yes tires were junk lol brakes were marginal at best but that was done long before it ran thanks on heads up on warm up
     
  2. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    Ok got it out for some cold but good riding to break everything in. Got a few small things to iron out. I am dripping out a vent when shut down on center stand, and worse on side stand float level or petcock ? It stops when I pinch the fuel line off. Some wobbel in frone wheel think its tweeked? repair it or replace it ? Stock pipes are blowing packing? out or mouse turds lol but its getting louder are these repack able? And last but not least the lights dim maby 55 to 60% of run brightness at idle normal or not ?
     
  3. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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    Why am I not surpised :x

    Glad you got it sorted yourself though!
     
  4. schmuckaholic

    schmuckaholic Well-Known Member

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    One of the floats is sticking open. Question is, why.

    If you were having trouble getting the fuel levels to settle down, as I and others have had (here's a good tutorial on how to set them), this thread over here (Setting the floats (Mikuni)) illustrates what might be happening.
     
  5. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    Agree with shmuck, the float valves are leaking. The petrooster could be leaking as well (should shut off with no vacuum in ON and RES, only flow in PRI) but the float valves need sorting too

    I'd check & change oil before next start too in case it's diluted with fuel.

    The front wheel wobble could be a balance issue, bearings, or tyre not seated correctly. First off check the tyre is seated evenly all the way round on both sides & the bearings are smooth/not loose, then balance the wheel (easy to do, set it up on the axle between 2 benches or similar & see which part likes to sit lowest, add weights opposite until it settles in any random position after you spin it)
     
  6. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    put a dial indicater on wheel and spun it almost .74 in of run out thats almost 3/4 inch lol its shot im thinking will check floats tonight after im done cleaning, i have the Hitachi carbs on this one. Any thoughts on the lights I plan on hooking up multi meter to it but I know there is a voltage drop at idle not sure if its normal? My honda dont do this nor does the 82, both them have aftermarket charging systems on them. pipes tho can they be repacked?
     
  7. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    Oh right the actual rim is buckled then :( How is the fork action? Any excessive stiction (static friction, I.E. resistance to move or bounce back smoothly) could mean they're bent too.

    On the lights, I'd expect them to dim slightly at lower revs as the alternator doesn't charge until >2000-2500rpm. If they're really bad it could be the battery being a bit weak but I'd expect starting trouble if that was true, so maybe OK

    Personally I'd leave the pipes if they're solid, AFAIK they were baffled not glasspack anyhow so maybe it's mouse homes blowing out?
     
  8. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    forks are new? or repaired as they are great in action. Battery is new as of 3 weeks ago. I did test it and the charging system comes on at 2250 so you are right thanks. The pipes are not rusted nor is the collector, so I will leave them, was hoping for a bit more quiet but it does have a nice sound to it just mouse "stuff" comming out then. Thanks for the information.
     
  9. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    Well still running around in circles on this rebuilt the petcock ran the carbs threw the cleaner still pissing out while off. Lower the floats the bike is real lean and runs like crap no in-between the tank runs slow in on and reserve good on pri I can't get it to stop running did this even before rebuild nothing is working right lol just burn on a bung and put a Honda petcock? One that has a off?
     
  10. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    If you can't get the original petrooster to rebuild satisfactorily, (did you use one of Len's kits? Tried a washer to boost the spring? tapped the valve into it's seat slightly?) Len's got on/off/res ones in stock that fit the stock tank IIRC (what HASN'T Len got? lol :D )

    If the carbs are still overflowing after cleaning & checking the float needle tips & seats maybe it'd be worth getting a set of float needles and seats too?
     
  11. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    New needles seats and rebuild kit from local shop flipping thing still isn't working right going back at it one more time then if this don't work its getting mothballed to make room for another builder
     
  12. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    The ones other shops sell can be inferior quality to what Chacal has in stock. He only stocks stuff known to be good quality & most importantly to work on our bikes (not just saying this to get a discount either, I'm on the wrong side of the pond :( just going from what everyone who has bought from him says )

    That said, have you fitted new copper washers under the float seats too or re-used the old ones? They work harden and can leak even if annealed...
     
  13. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    New copper washers scorced from my brake washer bin and might be bad parts but idk if that's the case my 650 runs fuel engine off valve on just like the 700 its just frustrating to take one step forward and three back. The bike runs rides cept bent wheel still no replays on one going to get new if I have to when if I figure out fuel problem just don't like the drip out of vent it will drain tank in five hours and eats the paint off storage building floor. Makes no cents why new parts in petcock don't seal and carbs leak even when set right to bottom of lock washer. The think runs like crap and egts are high when I back fuel level down
     
  14. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    Also as I pointed out in another post earlier, it'll dump fuel into your oil through the breather (or directly down the ports) so worth not running it until the oil is known to be uncontaminated.

    My thoughts are if you've got everything set just so, then the parts must be bad :?

    That's assuming the leak IS from overflowing, not from leaking drain screws?
     
  15. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    ::: Never make your Bad situation, ... worse!" :::

    Buy a Brand-new Petc0ck. (Should last you 20 ~ 30 years.)

    Install a highly-reliable auxiliary Fuel Shut-off Valve.
    Hdwe. Store / Briggs & Stratton / $10.95

    [​IMG]
     
  16. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    Will pick one up in am if my head is better. Will reset floats to lock washer and give it a try. Yes I will also change oil before refiring the motor hope to be back tomorrow after noon and might work on it tomorrow night thanks yall
     
  17. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    This thread's getting evil! :D

    [​IMG]
     
  18. scrubby

    scrubby Member

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    That explains alot lol got four stitches and going home in hour lol long night hope to be out in shop tonight
     
  19. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    Bummer, how did you get hurt? :(
     
  20. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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