Carb Trouble

The link that Hogfiddles shared provides great information, including how to loosen the valve cover. You van use a broom or hammer handle to accomplish this task. Works great. I think it is detailed on the how to. Correct valve clearances make a big difference, at least it did on my bike.

 

There are 12 bolts. The 8 you see, and the four in the center under the tank (clearly pictured several times in the thread that you didn't read). Remove the other four bolts and it'll pop off. You may need to tap it with a rubber mallet to brak the gasket free.

 

Meant 12. I was going off memory. I just need to pry it. I was too scared to damage it last night so I left it alone.

 

Rubber mallet, tap, tap, tap...then grab and pull if needed. If you do end up prying on it use something wooden.
Walking away when unsure is always a good move.

 

Well, it also depends on the year.... YICS valve cover is different than non-YICS valve cover

 

YCIS. Thankfully kmoe's link is also YCIS.

 

All the shim are within range so I didn't pluck any of the valves. Checked them once, twice and a third time for giggles. Going to tune the engine now. I'm struggling to understand how the clearances become out of range. How would that occur?

 

The valve slowly recede into the head with all the miles of pounding

 

Can't find anything on "b) synching the engine" from the C.O.C. Anything would be appreciated. In the meantime I'm putting my the original airbox back together like a broken vase.

 

That's because you sync the carbs, you don't sync the engine.

 

Alright, that would explain my confusion. Onto the colortune any advice while I study that?

 

Your goal is a nice "Bunsen burner" blue. Toward yellow is too rich, toward white is too lean.

 

C.O.C. is finished except the colorplug tune. How much does it usually cost to have a shop do it for me? Is the kit an investment I should look into?
On another note after how many miles should I inspect the valve clearances?
I glued my airbox together for a temporary solution until my next check comes in. Any better alternatives to this bulky airbox? I was talking to a mechanic that frequents my workplace the other day and we were discussing a custom airbox with the same snorkel, and airflow dimensions for an equal intake resistance. Am I dreaming or is this plausible?

 

1. A shop will charge more than the service is worth when that's all they are going to do.

2. Yes it's worth the investment. The colortune saves time. Idle mixture adjustment can be don by reading the sparkplug color, but that takes about 5 times as long (although it's free).

3. Valve clearance checks are done every 5,000 miles.

4. Custom airboxes have been made, and so far all have been reported to work reasonably well.

4a. If you think the XJ airbox is bulky you haven't looked at a modern sportbike lately.
Below is the FJ-09. The airbox is the huge plastic thing on top of the frame (it's part of what makes that engine such a wonderfully powerful beast).

 

What he ^ said. Good air, good fuel, good spark...varoom, varoom!

Gary H.

 

They will probably charge you at least one hours labor … For a 10 to 15 minute job

 

Probably get started on a custom intake system. I'll do some research tonight when I get home and go over the Holy COC to make sure I got everything

 

What is this part called? I'm trying to locate the starter plunger valve but can't seem to find it.

 

That is called the Main Nozzle, or something like that, the starter plunger valve is in the top right part of the carb in the attached picture. It has the black rubber dust seal over it with a brass nub sticking out.

 

The part itself is pictures below inside its spring. To the right of the main nozzle you have pictured.