Clutch Adjustment & Clutch Cable Replacement Procedure

If the Clutches are still engaging the Drive Discs when the Pressure Plate is moved to release pressure on the Discs, ... the NEW FRICTION Discs may be "STUCK" from being released from the DRIVE Disc(s) because the GROOVES in the Clutch Basket are GALLED.

The Galling prevents the Discs from Floating in their Channels.

Remove the Discs.
Inspect the Channels with a Magnifying Glass.
If there are "Hammered Indentations" the Discs won't Float.
If the condition is severe, ... you need a New Basket.

Wipe the Channels with Nylon Pantie Hose.
If the Pantie Hose "Snags" ... the Baskets need to have the Grooves "Dressed with a Stone"

Replacing the Parts with ones not damaged is the best course of action.
Ck. Ebay

 

What Rick said, but you don't need to drain any oil; just put the bike on the sidestand if you need to pull the cover; you'll lose maybe a teaspoon-full.

"Activating" the throwout with a wrench is not really a valid test either; you need to get the throwout arm installed correctly and the cable adjusted and test it that way.

 

That makes perfect sense! With the engine off and the oil fill removed, I can see the discs sticking together when the clutch releases. I can reach them with my finger and separate them by pulling and wiggling them. I have a low mileage parts bike I can pull a clutch basket off of. Thanks for the info! I'll also put the bike on the kickstand to pull the cover, in order to avoid draining the oil. .

 

Inspect both the basket and hub; look closely at the "rub marks" from the plates.

They should just be "shiny spots." If they're divots at all, that's what Rick's referring to. You may need to swap the hub too.

 

I just pulled the clutch bac out. Its definately got divots worn in it. Guess I'll pull the one off my arts bike....

While I have the basket pulled out is there anything else I should check? I see a small chain and various other parts in behind where the basket was....

 

that little chain drives the oil pump, there's really nothing else back there unless your splitting the cases

 

Allllright... So I spent 6 hours with sand paper smoothing out ALL the divots that were worn in. Then I carefully reassembled the clutch, lined up the dots nd torqued bolts to specs. Now when I release the clutch to shift from nutral to 1st it doesnt kill the engine, but it shifts hard and clunks into gear. The rear tire starts spinning before I release the clutch lever. Im going to go back through the adustment process. I even moved the little arm one notch counterclockwise. The arm is pulled all the way when I pull the hand lever, but it still clunks into gear.. Any words of wisdom?

 

Sounds like you're real close.

You will have a "clunk" when shifting into first gear. The clunk is more noticeable When the bike is cold.

Keep adjusting and you'll get there, just don't adjust it so the throw out arm is too far back. If this happens it means you need a new cable also.

 

The Cable - Throw-out Arm & Activating Rod have to be adjusted to provide as much THROW as possible.

Read the Adjustment Procedure at the end of the Link in my signature.

Arrange the Rod, Throw Arm and Cable to give to at LEAST this much Throw.

IF you arrange to have this much THROW, ... with NO Slack.
The Clutch should not make the Bike crunch into gear.

Engaging 1st should be smooth.
Finding Neutral should be easy.
The Bike should not creep with the Lever pulled.

 

I went through the adjustment process again. I finally got it to shift into gear without clunking so bad, but on the test ride the clutch was slipping alot. So I went through the process again to fine tune it, and now it clunks into gear again killing the engine. It even clunks into gear when I use a wrench to turn the clutch arm all the way clockwise until it stops then while holding it try to shift into first or second....

Im about to load it up and haul it to the bike shop. With the arm turned all the way clockwise until it stops the clutch should be completely released and it should shift. I smoothed out each and every divot that was worn into the basket too. I have to be overlooking something. Man its frustrating. I want to ride!

 

Yup, when it is completely warm, it will shift into gear without dying, but will hardly move when the engine revs with the clutch released. Crap. Looks like I will be pulling the clutch cover back off tonight after work.

 

One step that has been missing in the discussion is the small
and thin bearing that sits between the the pull rod
and plate washer. If this bearing is worn out, the clutch will not
perform right.

On the 700n this bearing so thin I wonder how it lasts at all.

 

I'll definately check it again when I pull it apart. Thanks for the tip.

 

I got the cover off and the clutch discs removed. With the center nut and inner basket still in place I can wiggle the outer basket with my hand, not backward and forward in the direction it turns, but it moves laterally up and down with quite a bit of play. Im thinking this may not be right or good. The center nut is torqued to specs. The outer basket seems to have quite a bit of play in it. Any experts want to diagnose this?

 

As in, moves in relation to the hub, in such a way that would put it NOT CONCENTRIC with the hub when moved? Or "in and out" sliding on the shaft it sits on?

 

in relatin to the hub. kind o like a tire will move if you pull on the top and bottom when the wheel bearing is shot.

 

The bearing looks fine, but there is a decent amount of play between the bearing and race. I swapped on another basket, and bearing, then a different inner basket and hand tightened the center nut. No play in the outer basket now... But since I broke one of the spring studs off trying to get the center nut loose, I'll need a new one..

 

This place might have what you need.
I know they have a wrecked 700 & Max-X.
I have to go up there to get a Carb Body.

Worth a phone call if you're stuck.

DrumHill Cycle - Nashua, NH Yamaha Used Parts

 

Yuck. "Wobble" top to bottom, or move straight toward you and away from you on the shaft?

You talked about "sanding out divots." If you removed too much metal it's gonna hang up anyway. I think it might be time for a new basket and hub. Low-mileage parts can be found on eBay all the time.

Might want to pop it apart and have a look.

 

Yeah, I took it apart, thats how I knew it had play in it. Can new bearing and race be ordered to fix the problem?

 

You'll find the Bearings size engraved on the race.
Place a call to a Bearing Supply Outlet and you can avoid the high cost of ordering one at the Dealer and paying extra for a Logo'ed Bar Code Sticker and a Plastic bag.

See if Forum Member: chacal ... the sites home parts supplier can help you..

 

DeMented; this might be a good time to start a new thread of your own in regard to your clutch instead of "adding on" to Rick's how-to.

One thing I missed, and I don't feel like running back thru 5 pages to find it is:

What bike are we talking about?

Be a really big help if it was in your signature...

 

Fitz, if this is a tech article then it needs to be made a sticky and be locked. If you run back through 5 pages you will notice several other questions before mine. If you have a problem please send me a personal message. Rick has been VERY helpful and I greatly appreciate it. I didn't start a new topic because there are already plenty of clutch related topics. Just because a forum member has a particular year and model of XJ in their signature does NOT mean they are working on that particular bike. What if they are working on a friends bike? What if, like myself, they have 3 different XJs? I've seen you post that "If it was in your signature," bit on other topics. Have you thought about that? Plus, it's rude. I joined this forum because I absolutely love the XJs, not to be flamed for posting on an open topic.

Let's stay on topic. Topic being clutch adjustment. I'm trying to figure out why I can't get mine adjusted. It's an 83 XJ750.

 

I'm not "flaming" anyone. This is a "how-to" and we don't seem to be able to get them locked and sticked (or moved to "FAQ Final") any more.

You have more of a problem-solving question; you'll get better advice if it was in its own thread rather than being a set of "add on" responses to this "how-to."

More people are likely to read it if you start it as a new thread; I was trying to help you get your issue solved more quickly, not just criticizing to criticize.