Clutch adjustment issues.

I have recently completely rebuilt a Yamaha xj 750. I am having some issues with the clutch. I can get the clutch adjusted so that it will disengage, but if its adjusted to that point it wont engage. I can also get it adjusted so that the clutch plates will grab and engage, but at that point it wont change gears without grinding. I cannot find a happy medium. At this point I am questioning where I messed up and what needs to be fixed. I had the bike rested on its side last night so that the clutch can soak but I almost feel like it got worse. The clutch worked before I decided to do my rebuild and the clutch plates looked fine to me when I put them on. and a second thought, should the rpm of the bike effect if the bike is going to grind gears going into first?

 

The only part of this DYI thread that does not apply to the 750 is the special plate and clutch boss spring, otherwise the precedure is identical.

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/clutches-101-part-1-the-400-550-600s-with-pics.29541/

Did you line up the two dots on the inner and outer baskets during assembly?

The clutch cable adjustment at the clutch throwout arm is a little different too:

From Rick:

Clutch Adjustment & Clutch Cable Replacement made simple.
Special to: XJBikes.com
Copyright: November 23, 2006
All Rights Reserved.

By: Rick Massey

Here's my submission to our up-coming Tech Section. There's nothing worse than grinding a pound of gears trying to get the bike into first gear, fighting with the gear change pedal to get into Neutral, having the bike do the "Red Light Creep" and missing a shift. This article will cure those symptoms for you.

Eventually, you'll need to replace the Clutch Cable; too. I have done my best to provide a step-by-step procedure that even the most inexperienced Member should be able to understand and follow when the time comes to swap-out a Clutch Cable.

Following Repair Manual format; here's everything you need to know ... to replace the whole Clutch Cable or simply Adjust your bike's Clutch for smooth riding or Track Day!

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Cable Replacement:
Note the way that the old cable is routed, from the Clutch Lever Perch, around the front, along the frame, through guides, over or under parts, down along the frame, to the mounting point on the Engine Case, below the Carb's, at the rear of the Clutch Case.

(Make notes, a drawing, or stick tape with arrows pointing the way, if you can't remember how it needs to go.)

Down at the Engine Case:
Bend the tab on the Clutch Throw-Out Lever Mount to allow the Lead "Bullet" Cable End, to be removed and release the cable from the Throw-Out Lever's attachment point.

I use a big Crescent Wrench. Push DOWN on the wrench lifting the Throw-Out Lever and maneuver the Cable End Bullet out of its holding bracket. Pad the jaws of the wrench (or any tool you use) with paper towels.

After detaching the Bullet, relax the wrench pressure allowing the Throw-Out Lever to retract. Clean and lube the pivot point of the cable attachment bracket.

At the Cable's End:
Remove the hard rubber Dust Seal. Un-screw it and slide it to the end of the cable along with the nuts and washers collected as the Cable is removed.

With fresh brake fluid or Armoral, lube the Dust Seal for withdrawing the rubber dust seal off the end of the cable, over the Bullet.

Loosen and remove the Lower Hex Locking Nut and Washer (if present).

Push the threaded Adjusting Barrel through the top of the Mount if the Adjusting Barrel does not come loose from the bracket. The barrel might slide right out from the Mount. Other's may need to be withdrawn. Either way; undo the Adjusting Barrel from the Mounting Bracket.

At the Clutch Lever Perch:
Remove the Hex nut on the end of the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin.
Remove the Pivot Pin bolt.
Slide-out the Clutch Lever from the Perch.

Remove the Cable End and Bullet > (or any remains of a broken cable) < from the Clutch Lever.
Line-up the Cable with Slot on the Lever allowing for the removal of the Cable End from the Clutch Lever. Slide the Bullet UP and out of the "Bullet Hole" on the Lever.

Clean-out the channeling and the Pivot Port for the lead Bullet. Put a dab of Waterproof Grease in the "Bullet Hole" and set the Lever aside.

Clean the Knurl Cable End Adjuster and its Locking Ring.
Add NeverSeize to the Knurl's threads.
Place a dab of NeverSeize in the threaded hole for the Knurl on the Perch.
Place the Knurl, with its Locking Ring all the way on, into the Perch's threaded opening.

Spread the NeverSeize along the Perch's inside threads by running The Knurl > IN, to the end and back OUT; several times. Add additional NeverSeize, if needed, to insure the Knurl Adjuster moves freely, without binding. "Exercise" this vital Clutch adjustment mechanism until it is able to move with precision. The Smooth and precise adjustment of this feature is absolutely necessary to properly and precisely adjust the Clutch.

Make sure the Locking Ring is on tight, at the end.
Bottom the Knurl into the Perch, against the Lock Ring.
Turn Knurl OUT 3-1/2 Turns. (Exercise the Knurl IN and OUT, in this particular area, until it adjusts velvety smooth, with no binding or resistance.)

The Cable:
Out with old and in with the new. Follow your notes or taped-on arrows.
Thread the end which attaches to the Clutch Perch > up through the bike < Starting at the Case Mount and ending at the Clutch Lever Perch.

At the Clutch Perch:
Thread the Cable through the > lined-up slots < of the Perch, Knurl and Locking Collar.
Put the lead barrel "Bullet" into the Clutch Lever "Bullet Hole" and mount the Clutch Lever, the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin and tighten Hex nut.

Make a "Final adjustment check" on the Knurl and Locking Collar. Run the Knurl OUT 3-1/2 turns -- positioning the slot > Inboard < to prevent the Cable from escaping during the remainder of the replacement and adjusting.

Critical Proceedure:
Use the Knurl's "Thumb Wheel" Locking Collar and LOCK the KNURL tightly in place, 3-1/2 Turns OUT. Place the Cable Sheath's End-Fitting FIRMLY into it's seat at the open end on the Knurl.
SECURE the sheath against escaping from the Knurl's seat with a strip of Vinyl electrical tape until all Cable and Clutch adjusting is complete.

Down at the Case:
(Mod's for Performance and Precision Adjustment of Clutch include some additional hardware items.)
Place a Hex nut, a Stainless Steel washer and a Nylon washer on to the Threaded Clutch Cable Adjustment end. (Nut, Stainless washer, Nylon washer.)
Slide ... or slip-in from the top ... the Threaded Adjustment End into the Clutch Cable Holding and adjustment mounting bracket. Secure the bottom of the Threaded Adjuster with additional hardware items:
Place a Nylon washer on first.
Place a Stainless Steel washer on next.
Place the Hex nut on the Adjuster; third. (Substitute NyLoc Hex nut for stock nut.)
Rubber Dust Shield; last.

Critical Procedure:
While holding the Threaded Adjustment End tight into the mounting bracket; tighten the Lower Hex nut, with sufficient force, until BOTH Nylon washers "Crush" and mould themselves to, and around, the top and bottom edges of the holding bracket.

[Use standard, thin, stainless washers. Use Nylon washers that are "Soft", about as thick as a Nickel or slightly thicker. The Nylon washers are > supposed to < get Crushed and become non-slip fasteners ... holding the Threaded Barrel of the Clutch Cable, firmly, in the same place, while final installation and adjustments are carried out. Also, to allow fast and accurate adjustments of the upper and lower hex nuts should future cable adjustments be necessary.]

With the Threaded Adjuster tightened in place; place the Lead Bullet End of the Cable into the Cable Attachment Pivot at the end of the Throw-out arm. Push the arm UP, as before, using a proper tool, and capture the Bullet in the pivot attachment devise. Don't fold-over the tab until ALL the Clutch Adjusting is complete.

Release tension on the Throw-out Lever.
Inspect and insure that the Bullet end is firmly seated in its holding slot.
Now, check the Throw-out lever for Cable Slack and Throw-out Lever End Play.
Remove all Slack and End Play.

If the Cable is slack and the Throw-out lever has loose End Play ... LOOSEN the LOWER Hex nut on the Threaded Cable End Adjuster and TIGHTEN the UPPER Hex nut > Holding the Barrel from rotating by holding the Fixed Hex Flats atop the barrel, just above the locking Hex nut on the Threaded Adjuster ... until ALL the SLACK in the CABLE is REMOVED and Throw-out Lever End Play is reduced to Zero Lash.

ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH:
Continue adjusting the Threaded Adjustment End of the Clutch Cable until you remove ALL the Slack in the Cable and the Throw-out Lever is > "On the edge" of ZERO LASH. NO End Play." Use finger pressure on the exposed cable to "Feel" the adjusting process.
You need to adjust the Throw-out arm to ZERO Lash. Such that adjusting the Hex nuts on the Cable's Threaded Adjustment by only one or two flats will provide just a hint of LASH. Adjust the Cable at the Lower Cable Mounting Bracket for ZERO Lash at the Throw-out Lever.
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** [ You need the whole throw-out on these XJ Clutches. It is not unusual for the adjustment to be complicated by the improper replacement of the Clutch Throw-out Arm, after any work, which might have made removing it convenient or necessary. If you are not getting enough Clutch throw-out; it might be necessary to reposition the Throw-out LEVER a notch or two Counterclockwise on the splines of the Clutch Throw-out ROD.

Remove the Throw-out Lever from the splined end of the Throw-out ROD. Turn the ROD Clockwise until its motion stops upon contact at the clutch.
Maintain contact at the Clutch by holding the ROD fully Clockwise and reposition the Throw-out LEVER back on the spines to where it's new position removes cable slack.

Make the necessary adjustments to all the lower components and adjustment features until you get ZERO Lash at rest ... and complete movement of the ROD Clockwise when the Clutch Lever is pulled.] **

The Clutch is preliminarily adjusted. Although, it very well might be Precisely adjusted.

Test ride and observe for the ease of shifting, finding Neutral, and NOT bucking or jumping into gear.

Further fine-tuning of the Clutch Adjustment is done by adjusting the Knurl, on the Clutch Perch, IN or OUT as needed.

The ability to tweak the adjustment of your Clutch using the Knurl ... allows you maintain Perfect Adjustment at all times.
This feature also allows you to make immediate adjustments if heat becomes a factor in the Adjustment.

When the fine-tuning and adjusting is done ... LOCK the adjustment with the Knurl Locking Ring. Lock it up TIGHT. Most clutch problems are a result of the Knurl vibrating and loosing it's position.

Good job adjusting that Clutch.
Like a new bike ... ain't it???

I don't recommend doing gear changes without releasing the clutch. All too easy to ding-up surfaces and start having transmission trouble.
_________________
Rick Massey
Staff Technical Writer