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converting lights to LED

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by SnoSheriff, Jan 21, 2006.

  1. singingotter

    singingotter Member

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    I was successful in getting the LED flasher from www.superbrightleds.com to work. I tried several other recommended flashers from Tridon (EP-34, EP-35) which were unsuccessful. The cancellation works only from the thumb switch, but when the weather turns a bit warmer, I'll be running tests on what the cancelling unit does during movement. I think that the cancelling unit can be incorporated into the LED circuit with an additional micro relay.
     
  2. jdrich48

    jdrich48 Member

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    Keep us informed, I'd really like to do this mod myself one day.
     
  3. RyanfromOhio

    RyanfromOhio Member

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    If anyone has any specifics I might be able to get us some help.

    On my car audio board theres one guy with a real passion for putting LED's in his vehicle.

    Also there are two Electrical Engineers and like 2-3 people in school for it ;)

    So any specific electronic geek type talk :p
     
  4. jdrich48

    jdrich48 Member

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    Ryan; I think the main trouble is that when the leds and electronic flasher are installed it doesn't allow the turn signal auto cancel to function.
    Do you have a pic of the wiring diagram?
    If not PM me and I can send it to you off list.
    I'm not sure if a wiring diagram is enough to work with or not. I can't find anything on the system operation.
     
  5. singingotter

    singingotter Member

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    What you have to understand is that the OEM flasher is not just a flasher, it also contains part of the speed based turn-signal cancelling function, as does the cancelling unit. I'm sure there is also a timeout circuit in there also as my turn signals have never stayed on for very long, even at a stop light (maybe 2 minutes at the most). I have an electronics background, enough to understand and overcome most automobile related circuits. It's just that some things need to be tested in the field, and others at rest.

    I'll get back to you guys in a week or two...or as discoveries are made.

    Richard, when you are talking about wiring diagrams, are you talking about the ones from Haynes? I'll take any wiring diagrams you have for the 81 XJ650H.
     
  6. singingotter

    singingotter Member

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    So I've been ordering other turn-signal related parts in order to get this circuit to work with the Custom Dynamics 1.85" 1156/1157/Hardwire LED clusters. I ordered a dual load equalizer from Signal Dynamics, but it doesn't work. Still no blinky-blinky. At the moment I'm communicating with both vendors tech support to figure this out. The problem is that the Yamaha circuit is so intricate that it does not lend itself easily to conversion. Don't rush out there thinking you can convert this circuit easily to LED's. Stick with the taillight and license plate lamp - those convert over no problem. And I question the success of anyone who says they have done this without properly documenting in detail how they successfully managed the conversion. No one has come forward yet with this info.
     
  7. richard03

    richard03 Member

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    Thanks for the posting. Please keep it coming. I have noticed that my brother's XJ650 headlight is VERY weak. So, we should probably upgrade, so we will be following!
     
  8. richard03

    richard03 Member

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    Question (semi-off topic): If one were to put in a headlight modulator, would that affect the performance of your bikes electrical system? I guess it would if it decreased current when the headlight was dim. But I don't know how they work, maybe they draw the same current all the time? And do they draw the same current as the original setup?
     
  9. singingotter

    singingotter Member

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    I would think it would draw less (the headlight is on less time) or the same.
     
  10. singingotter

    singingotter Member

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    Well, a few weeks ago I finally resolved the whole LED conversion issue. I ended up having to go with a Custom Dynamics pair of load resistors so the OEM blinker would work and the cancellation unit works as well. I love the look of the LED's, and I'm running at less of a current draw, but when the blinkers come on, there is an ever-so-slight dimming of the headlight, but not as bad as when the turn signals were incandescent.
     
  11. Ian.k

    Ian.k Member

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    IF you want to get creative, you used to be able to order great wide angle LED's off ebay for next to nothing, then the sky's the limit wher eyou put them, my turn signals and rear running light are hidden under the rear fender and are VERY visible(someone could go blind gawking at them too long.) The piece they were attatched to was custom made using some plastic and ha torch to shape it. i'll see if i cant find some pics for you...
     
  12. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    I was just reading this thread and from what I can tell, some of you guys are the LED light experts on these bikes.........

    I want to convert my '82 XJ650 Maxim (XJ650J) to LED's.....any chance someone can provide me with a complete list of which items I will need from your (best) supplier of choice? Meaning I would need the part numbers for the bulbs and relays, etc.....amber front and rear turn signals, red brake light, white license plate light, and whatever you recommend for the dash indicator lights and guages illuination. My self-cancel system doesn't work as it is, so that's no biggy for me right now, I've gotten use to hand-cancelling them.

    Have anyone ever used a brake light modulator unit----and does it work properly with LED's in place of incadescents?

    Finally, what headlight upgrade have you used/recommend?

    Thanks!
     
  13. ArizonaSteve

    ArizonaSteve Member

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    I tired some LED lamps from the auto store but they didn't work very well because of not being bright enough to be seen in daylight. I think the only way to get enough light out of them is to use Luxeon brand or similar LEDs that come in 1 or 3 watt versions but they have to be mounted on a heatsink so mounting them gets complicated. If anyone is trying to use regular LEDs of the round 5mm variety use red ones not white because the white ones don't last very long. Actually, there is no such thing as white, they are blue LEDs coated with yellow phosphor so when the phosphor burns off they get dim. I've had some white ones last less than an hour although the Luxeon brand is supposed to last up to 50,000 hours before dropping to 50% brightness according to Philips. More information on this can be found here: http://longlifeledlampsareamyth.netfirms.com
     
  14. raisinland

    raisinland New Member

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    Success! I recently changed my brake lights and turn signals to LEDs. The tail lights worked imediatly but the turn signals took a bit of doing. I baught two electronic flashers in a row but neither worked. As it turns out the cancelling unit wasn't allowing the turn signals to turn on. As far as I can determine from the schematics the cancelling unit essentially acts as a switch on the ground wire going to the flasher relay. Looking at the cancelling unit connector the middle pair of pins are the bike ground and the flasher relay common lead. I removed the cancelling unit and shorted the two pins together. Now that the cancelling unit is bypassed the signals work perfectly. (They don't auto-cancell of course)
    The next project is to cut open an extra cancelling unit and see if it can be made to work with the electronic flasher.
    ____
    | - - |
    | - - | <-- Short these
    | - - |
    |___|

    By the way, I'm using 18 LED tower bulbs from ebay. I'm very happy with them. Well made, bright, and they fit well. http://stores.ebay.com/All-Things-Interesting

    1982 XJ550RJ Seca (In a state of ever-receding perfection)
     
  15. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    I'd be very interested in knowing more about your efforts to convert Raisin. I'm contemplating the conversion simply to reduce the load on my electrical system. I've got a limited degree of knowledge on the solid state flasher unit on our machines but it has been a few years since I tore one open. I don't think there is any reason that on could not convert an electric flasher to work in conjunction with the older unit with a timer on it. Keep us posted, I'm curious to see the end result.
     
  16. nimitz

    nimitz Member

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    Well, this topic is very timely to what I'm doing with Serenity. I've just bought these:

    http://shorterlink.org/1577

    http://shorterlink.org/1578


    And obviously they don't flash because of load. But what I found was one of these:

    http://shorterlink.org/1579

    A resistive load equalizer that should allow you to continue using the auto-cancel without modification.

    (If these links don't work let me know and I'll post the originals.)


    BTW - under what condition does the auto-cancel cut in? I haven't ridden the bike enough to know.
     
  17. nimitz

    nimitz Member

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    After about 25+ years of tinkering with electronics and wiring I really don't feel like messing with replacing the auto-cancel flasher system unless I'm willing to just say screw it and live without the auto-cancel.

    Though I suppose if I knew the entire circuit and conditions under which it triggers I could come up with s circuit design to replace it that is LED friendly.

    Though as you can see from the other post I've decided that I want the look and lifespan of the LEDs regardless of if I get the reduced draw or not.
     
  18. Nick

    Nick Member

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    C. Self-Cancelling Flasher System
    1. Description:
    The self-cancelling flasher system turns off the turn signal after a period of time or distance involved in turning or changing lanes. Generally, the signal will cancel after either 10 seconds, or 150 meters (490 feet), whichever is greater. At very low speed, the function is determined by distance; at high speed, especially when changing speeds the canceling determination is a combination of both times and distance.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. nimitz

    nimitz Member

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    Cool. Thanks for the info!

    Now if I can just determine all the factors it's looking at then I can get a simple PIC or microcontroller and come up with a replacement. I just need to know what to program for. Time is the easy one. It's almost worth just using a simple 555 timer and making it adjustable.

    For the distance I'm assuming it's counting revolutions on the speedo via the closure of the reed switch?

    Something as simple as the bottom level Basic Stamp could be made to do this stuff without too much trouble.
     
  20. Nick

    Nick Member

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    You're welcome, and you're right, it's just counting the reed switch!

    If you get a working replacement, you going to post schematics, and parts list???????
     

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