Fast Taker Secaha - a blog

And now; swingarm, handlebars, and rear shocks on frame.

 

Bought a new battery, as the old one wouldn't hold charge.
Same producer, same model. But the new one came without threaded plugs, so I had to strip the battery sensor of threads...

 

I've had some quality time with the bike past month, securing the exhaust and rear blinkers.

Currently working on wet-setting the carbs, where I've discovered a somewhat easy ratio to go by.
We all know that the level of fuel in the bowls is directly related to the position of the fuel valve holders on the floats. I wanted to see if this could be done a bit more scientifically, and seem to have come up with a number that equals 0 +/- 3mm of fuel in the bowls.
Take a look at the picture below. The passage for the float holder pin has an OD of 4,5mm. When I eliminate other possible causes of error (such as bent metal etc.) and set the vave holder to 4,5 mm, fuel in the bowl magically ends up at close to 0 mm in the bowl.
This is working for me and I'm sticking by it, but if anyone else has time to check if it applies to their models as well, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

I see that I haven't updated this in a while, so here goes...

The method described in the post above works out really well. All float bowls are now zeroed in!

Got the cut airbox in without much of a fight, and it got me thinking if Yamaha should have designed it in a way that the air filter also served as an air flow constrictor. Would ease any work done, as well as saving space.

You can see some crappy photos:

 

After installing new clutch springs, it seems they're too hard for the clutch lever to handle. I managed to strip the clutch handle and handlebar clutch adjuster...

Time for Ebay again...

 

Small update of progress (I think)...

Some of you may have seen that I had some trouble with a RH switch. More on that here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=42052.html

The original clutch seems to work now, even though I thought the threads had been worn due to new springs. Still need to adjust it somewhat, as new springs + new friction plates make the clutch hug harder than before. Enough so that the pull is not enough to release the rear wheel in gear.

So, back to the wiring. I found that I had wired to sockets wrong and corrected them.
And although I can't see it on the wiring sheet, there seem to be two spliced Dg (dark green) and two spliced Brown (Br) wires coming from the right side main harness. I'm assuming these may be for hazard lights, but any other input is welcome. The connectors are now wired the way they were before I took the bike apart.

Also, some electrical gremlins are present....
When I put the ignition to PARK, I get lights in the gauges and the fog light comes on. Will try to pull the ignition and switch the location of the circuit breaker cross inside and see if that helps.

If that is not related to my problem, check out the ghosts:
- Key turned to ON, seemingly normal light-up
- Engine kill switch ON, instruments indicator lights comes on
- Headlight ON, instruments turn off, break light comes on
- Fog light never comes on
- Indicators turned to either way, correct rear light comes on and stays on
- Indicators turned to either way, front indicators never come on
- Key turned to PARK, instrument lights and the fog light comes on

 

Just saw this thread, as you bumped it, and like it very much. The look and paint is very nice.

 

Thanks! I'm really happy with the paint on this one. Can't say that I'm fixing it for selling as it was my first project. This one's a keeper!

 

What loom are you using, seca with computer?

What model is it, really 1984? Which country? 8O

Could possibly be crossed wires somewhere in the right switchgear (my diagrams (using UK 750 for now) shows 4 wires for lighting, red/yellow & blue operate park/tail/instrument lighting and yellow & blue/black operates headlamp low/high beam.

In the main switch there are 6 wires shown, (red, brown, blue, blue/red, white/red & another white/red) the only pair joined when switch is in park are red & blue/red.

EDIT-: There could be more than one fault but I'd check this out first.-> There is a diode shown near the computer with the blue/red and a blue wire, which stops the park position from lighting the instruments. Perhaps this diode is bad or missing?
Hopefully this is of some help, but if your wiring is different & you can post a diagram I could have a look for you...

 

I see im not the only one who thinks two seca 's are better than 1

 

Posted the UK diagram as that one seemed to fit the bike best. It's an RK 11m, but the wiring is definitely like the UK version, registered in in Norway first time in 1984.

Forgot to write that that I've unplugged the lighting wires from the switchgear to harness. I also tested rotating the cross inside the ignition to no avail. That just made the R/W wires (for battery sensor) go dark.

 

OK so the diagram I was referring to (as it seemed closest to your wire decriptions) is also the UK 750 one so we're on the "same page" as it were.

Check the diode near the computer that I put in bold in the last post (blue/red and blue wires) as this could be the problem with the instruments lighting up with switch in park.

Looks like on other models including the RK, the instruments are supposed to light up which is strange (personally I believe the RK diagram is wrong since the tacho is shown getting it's light powered from the neutral lamp!), but if yours has the diode like UK models that's my favourite to cause the fault.

 

Just another thing that may cause confusion is on some diagrams the 9 pin connector to the computer has one empty slot & on others it has a black earth wire to it. If you have a missing earth from that it could be a problem.

Test the diode first though & then if you still have a problem please can you post pics of both computer multiplugs & both sockets in the back of the computer?

 

Will do!
Mind you, I have not done any alterations to the harness, apart from trying to hook a 3-wire light switch to it. So, if there were a ground on the 9-pin connector, it's still there.
I did test the diode with a multimeter, and discovered that it works only one way. Is there another test to be done?

 

Diodes are designed to pass current only one way. ThEy should block current in the opposite direction. I think that's the only test that matters, so it's probably good.

 

Hang on, these faults have only appeared since you played with the light switch wiring?

I thought you left the 3 wire switch out as I said it wouldn't work?

How have you got the light switch wired at the moment?

 

Ah, The UK diagram we've been looking at has a different setup on the main switch to the RK (and the RK has fog lamp where UK does not). Using the UK diagram could have caused some problems...

I need to know now, what exact wires do you have at the main switch?

If you have 5 wires as per RK then the park position joins red to blue/red,

BUT if it's the 6 wire UK setup then the red wire needs to have continuity to solid blue in park...

 

I did take out the 3-wire switch. I was just commenting that I haven't done any alterations to the harness besides that, in connection with your comment on the 9-pin wire.

 

OK no problem, just have a quick look at your main switch wiring. I spotted a possible problem with using the UK diagram for your bike. The RK diagram has a different main switch setup. Will try stick to the RK for now as it should fit better, but I'm worried there's errors in it :?

Let me know what wires you have in main switch & I'll tell you which wires should connect in "park" & in "on". An incorrect park wire here could cause the problem too I think

EDIT-: by the way, you saw 2 spliced wires (dark green & dark brown). These could well be the front indicator wires, but let's get the main switch & park problem sorted first

 

Fouuuuuund the culprit. It was me! I stupidly forgot that the stock MC has a level sensor. Since I've swapped it out for a bar mount mc, I'd forgotten to run that wire to ground. Also, the front blinkers do indeed run to the spliced Dg and Br wires. Just the blinking and headlight left.