Float bowl drain screws stripped.

After a long struggle figuring out a no spark situation, I was able to dig into the carbs. Man, they were bad. Two of the floats were almost rusted. I pulled everything and managed to get it all cleaned up very well, but I know the float level is off. It runs like it's starving for fuel. Giving it full throttle, there's a hesitation like you wouldn't believe, and it just slowly climbs in rpm, but it's doggy. The drain screws are stripped horribly. Any tips on removal or a way to check float level with the bowls open?

 

Drain screws are, as you've no doubt noticed, not the hardest metal -- a good screw extractor should do the trick. Then a set of allen head replacements from Chacal to remedy the situation.

As long as you're in there, sounds like it might not hurt to swap out the float needles and seats.

 

Screw the float bowl to a scrap of wood and break out the propane torch.

Screws will come right out.

 

I haven't checked the float needles and seats. I cleaned them and checked for good operation, but forgot to check to see that they were sealing. I've had decent luck on other bikes running some air pressure down the fuel line and holding the floats closed to see if they seal. I planned on the drain screw replacements. I sent an email. I'll try the propane torch, see if I can get em loose at least to set float level. I can always pull them later to swap screws.

 

It's not just a matter of the floats sealing. It's a matter of them getting the fuel shut off at the correct levels; and for that you need functioning drain screws. (one, anyway-- you can always swap one good float bowl across the rack to check them all.)

 

Yeah, I was referring to the post above yours where someone recommended replacing the float needles and seats. While generally a good idea, this is an old clunker which needs to just run more than be "well tuned", lol. I was hoping that using your propane method would get them loose enough to set float levels before I really do much else. I have a manometer for my V-Twin, but nothing for a 4 cyl. Could I even do 2 at a time, like 1/3 and 2/4 and just go for a certain level?

 

You can sync with a 2-gauge manometer, yes. Sync 1 to 2, then 2-3. Number 2 brings #1 with it. Three doesn't adjust; then you sync 4 to 3 and you're set.

But you need to have the valves in spec first; and the float levels set using fuel and clear tubing.

 

Thanks for the help. Propane torch on the bowls and the screws popped out. I cut a deeper slot in them for future use, but all is good. Got the floats set dead on, and it's a different machine.