fried reg/rect plug?

thanks everyone for the input, now i have a starting point.

 

Actually, it was supposed to flow pretty good with suction.
The petcock flow test doubles as the cap vent test, if you think about it.
but - on to the "clunk test" and a complete carb cleaning.

 

timetoride, thanks. i didn't know it was supposed to flow...but when i think about it that obviously makes sense. so, what does that indicate...no flow? i guess while i'm cleaning the carbs i might as well rebuild the petcock and gas cap...are these relatively easy to do. thanks again everyone.

 

I used to recommend REBUILDING the Vacuum Petcock.
I don't, anymore.

All too often I have encountered a Rebuild Kit that didn't fit and leaked.
Therefore, it is my opinion, you are better of getting a NEW Petcock.

My rationale is based on the amount of time and effort expended in rebuilding the Petcock with disappointing results; against simply refitting the New one.

 

I've had good luck just taking them apart, cleaning the internals with carb cleaner, and reassembling with a bit of silicone grease. The problems I've seen with them sticking is usually related to the same varnish and gunk from old gas the gums up the carbs.

 

All very useful but I go back to his original comment:

"if i hit a bump, i regain full power and the deep exhaust note disappears"

It must be an electrics issue!

 

Hitting a bump and having performance change seems more like a Carb problem to me.

Especially,if the Exhaust note changes.
You probably jar a stuck Diaphragm Piston to rising.

 

Sounds like poor/ dirty electrical connections. Start out looking for white powdery stuff in the plastic connectors then buy a 12 pack and sit down and clean them all.

 

I'll split the middle, clean the connectors and the carbs for good measure.

 

alright, i'm back. tomorrow, i'm ordering a manual, valve shim tool, and anything else that you guys recommend. although i probably should find the exact problem and fix it before i move on, i'm just going to go over everything i should have when i bought it. first thing i did wrong...when i took the compression test, i didn't let it warm up first...so disregard those numbers. since the consensus seems to be valve check/adjustment before any effort on the carbs, that's where i'm starting. i found a 32 blade set of feeler gauges at napa today and popped the top to have a look. first, i'm new to this...but you guys make it look easy so why not. following bigfitz52's thread on valve check/adjustment i took some measurements today. however, the set i bought has large gaps between the smaller sizes. here's what i found:
intake 1 .076mm fits-.102mm does not
intake 2 .102mm fits-.127mm does not
intake 3 .102mm fits-.127mm does not
intake 4 .102mm fits-.127mm does not
am i right in assuming that i need more feeler sizes and that #1 is definitely out of spec with 2-4 potentially out of spec based on more checking with different size feelers???
exhaust 1 .127mm fits-.152mm does not
exhaust 2 .127mm fits-.152mm does not
exhaust 3 .152mm fits-.178mm does not
exhaust 4 .127mm fits-.152mm does not
does this mean 1,2,4 are definitely out of spec and that potentially #3 is???
hopefully these clearances aren't too small to cause any damage? while i have the cover off, is there anything else i should be looking for, checking, or cleaning in general or because of the shim numbers i have?
also, i removed the carbs....going to attempt cleaning them. i'm still reading and getting organized based on what rickomatic's threads recommend. i want to be thoroughly prepared both in a knowledge and material sense before i attempt this so it may take me a bit longer than most. i'll also clean and check all electrical connections. it seems most people recommend dielectric greasing and heat sealing all connections. are there any connection points i should not do this to or are they all ok to do that to? thanks again for everyone's help.

 

Dielectric grease should be fine once you get the corrosion removed, I would avoid using hot melt glue to "seal" your connectors as this will create difficulties in getting back into them, negating their usefulness.
Another suggestion in cleaning contacts is to use a mini blaster with baking soda to remove corrosion. Simply extract the contact, clean and reinsert. Quick and cleans up easily with alcohol or contact cleaner.
Garbage Freight sells an inexpensive mini blaster for about $30.

 

I'll check that out. Thanks