Fuse Panel Poll -- Yes, No, Will, Won't???

Thanks, Chacal. Do you have these available or know where I can find one? If you have them, I will get it from you in addition to a couple other things I need for the bike.

 

Hey Cole....yes, I do have them in stock!!!

 

Thanks, Chacal. Look for PM.

 

MY old fuse panel is melted. The wiring was redone and looks like curly from three stooges redid it. I am in the process of redoing the entire thing and will
definitely be upgrading it.

 

I just picked up an '83 XJ650 in great running condition but needs a fuse panel.Chacal,I've also PM'd you regarding buying one.Thanks for the great site,I think I'll be a frequent visitor.

 

I was coming home from a 40 mile trip on a paved country road. I was doing about 65 when the fuses blew. No headlights, no speedo lights but she kept on running. No street lights too, but there was a few deer around. I stopped at a church parking lot. The original fuse box was on at the time. I looked and did not have 2 fuses or clips. 2 of them had just disintigrated. (clips and all) Bottom line, I replaced everything with inlines and packed spares in there too.

Result, brighter headlights, no turn signal delay when stopping and no blown fuses.

 

You mean the way to fix it is not to just splice all of the wires together and take the fuses completely out? Yes, this is what the P.O. did to my bike. The bike ran when I got it, but I just started it to check on things already planning on taking it apart. And once I got it apart, OH YEAH! The P.O. definately took all but the main fuse out and spliced all of the wires! I saw on one of the threads here (maybe from Chacal) a replacement setup for the old style fuse block. On my old '81 that I had, started intermittently cutting out, so I had to. Put in ATC in line "mini fuses" as a quick fix, but it worked very well. But now that I have XJ bikes as a good reference, I plan on doing it the right way and making it permanent.

 

Got my new fuse panel and all the goodies to go with it on order.Thanks chacal!

 

I'll be putting in DC breakers after I get into the book and find out what the fuse values are supposed to be.

I suspect the fuses in there now are random sized glass fuses that "worked without blowing" stuck in by one of the DPO's.

Using breakers eliminates the need to carry spare fuses.

I've been slowly doing this to my Air Cooled VW's to get away from the corrosion prone "copper capped ceramic" Euro fuses.
Having to remember to spin the fuses before every start up to ensure good contact starts to suck a bit.

 

Circuit Breakers Could be a big headache.

I went to RS to get a cheap one until I can afford a good blade type.

 

Before putting them in my VW's I bought one of these:

http://www.weisd.com/store2/nterly/crktbrkrs/R59-8A.php



I soldered wires to it so it wouldn't "fly loose". I attached a 12V battery and about 7 amps worth of incandescent lamps.

Then I started swinging it around on the end of the wires and banging it against various hard, semi-hard, and soft objects to see if was susceptible to vibration or shock trip.

Worked fine.

I'm thinking of trying to find a clear silicone switch dust cover that will fit over them (like made for pushbutton switches) and mounting them externally visible on the left side cover (after creating a BOLT ON mod for the side cover).

(EDIT)

P.S. -- These are *NOT* switches, you can't turn them off at the toggle, only reset them to on if they trip. So, unlike a fuse you can't just yank it out/disconnect it if you get stupid and put in too high a value and wires start burning before it trips. RATE the breakers PROPERLY. If it calls for a 10 amp fuse, use a 10 amp breaker. If it calls for an oddball 12 amp fuse *USE A 10 AMP BREAKER*, not a 15 amp.