FZ600 Resto - the hotrod XJ

I don't recall any particular year for the 900, as long as it wasn't the 929 or 954. I converted to a 520 chain by using the front sprocket from a XT250 or something like that and using a GS500 rear sprocket on a VF500F rear carrier with the cbr600F2 wheel. It all lined up pretty well and the chain just clears the edge of the tire. I was using the Bridgestone BT003. The 150 fit better, but the profile ended up wrong with that width rim and I couldn't get all the way to the edge of the tire.
I have 3 of the FZ's. One is mostly stock with the CBR shock and progressive fork springs, 1 is a project with FZR1000 USD forks and a CBR shock with The FZR 1000 Front wheel and a CBR1000 rear. It is not together or anything yet, mostly just mock up. The other is just a parts bike with an engine that will probably run that I think I might stick in my XJ550 race bike and stick an FJ600 swingarm on it that I have laying around.. I haven't messed too much with them recently.

 

I pulled the swingarm to inspect and lubricate the suspension linkage. The last link to remove from the swingarm is in the pic.
This one has me worried as I haven't broken the bolt holding both sides together yet. I applied as much force as I thought I could without snapping it.
I'll have to try some heat on this before I force it anymore. This link is almost seized and definitely needs lube.
The swing arm has a nasty scar inside on the chain side. After I cleaned 30 years of chain lube it looks like someone rode with a loose axle at one point.
It's not deep enough to compromise strength but it might interfere with proper chain adjustment.
I'm going to fill it in with some plastic metal I bought and sand the surface smooth.

 

For that seized bolt. Heat, apply candle wax, remove heat, allow the wax to wick into the fastner, repeat a time or two. Remove the nut when it's all still hot. If the nut is still stuck get a can of air-duster, invert it (in a well ventelated area), and drip the refrigrant onto the bolt. This will shrink the bolt, further busting up the rust. It should brake free while the bolt is still cold, but might need another application of heat if it's really corroded soild.

 

thanks k-moe, I wouldn't have thought of the candle wax. The bolt is screwed into a steel forging which should resist any damage from heating it.
Thinking about the scarring at the axle end, I'm not sure how this could even happen? Perhaps a PO assembled the bike a very short while without the wheel spacer, not sure.

 

It is best to use lavender scented candle wax. It will keep you calm and relaxed.

 

I started the repair on my fuse box. I found a much more rugged 4x fuse holder.
I just cut the bottom out of the Yamaha fuse box and epoxy'd in the new piece.
With the cover on it will look completely stock.

 

I'm not sure about either shock I have. The one in front was on the bike. The one behind came from the remnants of the parted out bike.
The rubber cone to absorb the shock at the bottom of the stroke has nearly disintegrated.
The rubber foam at the top of the shock is pretty rough on both. I think it just keeps the big adjuster on top concentric.
This bike has a remote belt operated pre-load adjuster.
Maybe I'll start looking for a CBR900 shock. Some after market exotica would add bling.
Believe it or not there is a brand new Ohlins on ebay for this FZ. It's worth more than the entire bike LOL.

 

I just discovered a difference between the 86 FZ600 and the 88. The lower shock mount had a simple eye arrangement in 86. The 1988's have a clevis arrangement on the bottom. A CBR900 shock won't fit unless I change the bottom link as well. For now I've simply lubricated all the joints and put the same shock back in. I'm not sure which way the 87 is.
A little heat was all that was needed to break loose the last bolt in the linkage. The preload was cranked all the way so I left it there.

This pick is a 1986 FZ600 rear shock and bottom link. The 1988 arrangement has an extra pin in the linkage and different shock.

 

The clevis and eyes should be able to be swapped from one shock to the other. Typically they unscrew from the piston rod.

 

That explains why one shock I have is all scarred on the rod from a pipe wrench or something.
This only helps if the Yamaha clevis end screws onto the Honda piston rod.
If not, the easiest way to mount the CBR shock is to also convert to the 86 FZ linkage.
Seriously, I have it back together now, I really need to ride it to see if the shock presents any short comings.

 

The threads should be the same. Things like that are pretty-well standardized. Neither Honda or Yamaha make shocks; they buy them from outside suppliers (often the same one).

 

try this link.


This racing clip brought to you by Yamaha. This is awesome footage from UK of classic racing. Its fantastic to see all those XJ powered racers lined up. 98% of the field are FZ600's with the odd GPZ550, FJ600 in the mix. Watch the start of the video, at the 5:04 mark you can see all the FZ's blasting past an FJ1100, hilarious!
That Mike the Spike Edwards is a fast old man. If he can go that fast on an FZ600 I guess the old bike excuse won't work for being slow! Especially when he blasts past 30 bikes identical to his.

 

Well, that looks like a hell of a lot of fun. Maybe an FZ or FZR is in my future.. nothing too big though, I'll get into trouble.

 

You are awesome. I have everything I need for that.

 

I bought what was left of the parts bike which recently donated its carbs to my project.
This FZ got sacrificed for its swing arm which went to an RZ350. Its a common upgrade to the RZs as their swingarm is steel plus it widens the rear rim.
I actually wanted it for the gas tank which came with it.
It has inner surface rust but no perforations that I can see. I was told to try vinegar, anyone else do this?

These front ends are an awesome mod to a 650 or 750 Seca. It drops your front end about 1". Its 16 x 2.5" so you need to mate it with a wider rear rim, using the maxim 16 x 3.0 lowers the rear about 3/4" so it works out real well. Unless you're dragging parts on your seca on corners now then probably no problem, it will obviously drag your footpegs sooner. Might be good for anyone shorter in stature plus it looks really cool, actually uses the same 2 rim sizes as a 1986 Kawasaki ZX1000R Ninja. Slips right into the seca triple trees.

This bike was running just 5 months ago. Has a really good motor with about 58,000 kms and also came with the TCI and electrics.
I have the airbox, speedo and some more body work.

 

Actually I was incorrect, the 1st 1000 Ninja had a 3.50" rear with a 16-150/80 tire.

 

For the gas tank: Any acid will clean it, but only phosphoric acid will passify the steel and rust. On a tank without any holes, using phosphoric acid is a one-and-done deal; no fogging oil or liner needed (though big flakes of rust still need to be broken free and flushed out of the tank).

 

thanks k-moe, I see they sell this at Home Depot. The paint on the tank is reasonable with minimal scuffs and dents, I sure hope it works out. I've never been a fan of chemical tank liners as I've seen the mess when/if they separate from the shell.

 

I'm surprised you lot could understand any of that 'Yorkshire Drawl'.. I'd never heard of Croft circuit - sure looks bleak but as we say here 'It's grim up north..'

 

You can see in the pics the cush-drive rubbers from my spare rear wheel. There is a lot worn away.
The rubbers in my other wheel were a little better but still allowed the wheel to rock back and forth about 1/4" on the hub.
New replacements are expensive but they really restore the ride on chain drive bikes.
Much more positive shifting and easier on your gearbox, chain and sprockets.
I found a seller on e-bay who had 6 of them at a reasonable price so I bought them all and re-did both rear wheels I have.
Also replaced the bearings and seals in my spare wheel, now I'm ready to spin the 2008 (or 1998?) Pirelli Strada up in smoke!
The DOT number ends in 208, I think that means manufactured in the 20th week of the 8th year of the present decade, am I reading that right?
Anyway it looks old and slippery.