Gas smell in oil

Checked the float levels with carbs on the bike. 1 is high, 2 is low, 3 is a little low, and 4 is 3mm below. Took the plugs out again and 1,3, and 4 were wet, 2 was dry. Wtf

 

never hurts to go back to the beginning
big air jet to small fuel jet, small air jet to big fuel jet, washer under big fuel jet, spring-washer-o-ring on the mixture screw, throttle shaft seals
bench sync by the little holes in the carb throat, choke plungers are all the way down
point a big screwdriver at it and say bad words

 

Never a big screw driver, but many times with a hammer, and plenty of bad words. That's when I walk away usually.

 

What should I be looking for to see what is making it hang up? Did the float levels again and made them all as close to 17.52 (that is what #2 is at) filled with gas and let them sit for a while. 1 and 2 flooded, but a smack with the screw driver helped. 1 and 2 are high, 3 and 4 are right on. This is crazy because 2 was perfect and now it's high. What could cause this?

 

Not sure what I did different, but all levels are 3mm below the lip and no overflow. Put them back in, but didn't push them in place. Hooked up a gas line. No leaks. Pushed in place and connected all the boots. Started it up!!!! Finally!!! Needed very little choke. Hopefully tomorrow, sync and color tune.

 

Yaaay

 

Thanks bro!!!

 

Just so I'm going to do this right... sync, color tune and sync again, correct? Sync 3&4 first, then 1&2, then 2&3 to bring it all together?

 

Yup

 

I didn't do the sync or color tune. Got all horny when I got off work and put the tank and seat on and went for my first spin in 27 years! Not running perfect, but good enough for a first ride up and down my street. Gears shift smooth, and that's a relief. Now for my next problem. It appears that the petcock I rebuilt leaks all over. Going to watch the video again.

 

Ya, so I put the spring on the wrong side. Seems to have solved the problem. I've said it to myself before, ssllloooowww down!

 

Went into the garage where the bike is, and there was a very strong gas smell. I had left a paper towel underneath the carbs overnight, just to make sure there were no leaks. The paper towel was a little damp, but not soaked. Took the carbs off again, and noticed that all 4 boots to the engine were wet inside. Is this normal?

 

Took the carbs apart again. Took some 1000 wet/dry to the part where the rod goes through the float. See if that helps.
I don't understand why after I had them in and not flooding, and after a short ride, they would slowly flood overnight.

 

Because the dealer is selling/swapping the incorrect float valve assemblies for you. Almost all sellers of aftermarket carb rebuild kits (or just the float valve needle/seat units) are selling the wrong parts for the HSC32/33 series carbs.....they may fit some Hitachi carbs, but I sure don't know which ones. I believe the problem is that they are too long, and this unfavorably interacts with the geometry of the float movement , so that sometimes they work, and sometimes they don't (they seize up within the bore as the float tries to lift them, since the extra length causes the floats to push upwards and forwards at the same time on the needle, and this is what causes the problems..........we used to carry these aftermarket valve units a LONG time ago (2010 ?) and we would have these same problems....unpredictable and somewhat random.

 

Thanks Len, but these are original parts on the carbs except for the needles and seats I purchased from you. The only thing that I purchased from elsewhere were the gaskets, and I don't think they are the problem because of where the are in relation to the floats. I filled the carbs again last night, and they were fine on the bench sitting level. I'll change the oil again today and see what happens when I put them back in.

 

Hi Glen, are you sure that you purchased those from us? I can't seem to find where you ordered any carb parts from us.

 

Sorry Len. I did get the needles and seats from a local Yamaha dealer. My bad. The floats are original though.

 

Went back in again. Found that two of the seats had come loose a bit. Tightened them up. Measured again and all good (hopefully)

 

Bench wet level before they go back in.

 

Had everything as good as I can get them, but as soon as I put them back in the bike, they flood. Not all and not the same carb evey time. Took them out again. Took the floats out and hit them with some 1000 wet/dry on the sides and through the posts. Not sure what else to do. Help!

 

Is it possible the head pressure from the auxilliary tank is higher because it is on the handlebar. When the bike's fuel tank is on the pipe is much shorter. Probably won't make any difference but I am throwing the idea in anyway. What are you doing differently when you wet set them compared to when they are on the bike?

 

Really not doing anything different. Have the same problem if I have a hanging tank or use the bikes.

 

Looks the same as the illustration although this is from the 900f Haynes manual.

 

It's the same. 3mm below the lip.
Just benched them again. All good. Put the on the bike. All good. Going to tighten the boots and go for a spin. See what happens after that.

 

Hope it's ok. However the manual states for my 900f engine (and assuming all the XJ's are the same) 4mm to 6mm is within the range, in other words 5mm plus or minus 1mm. If yours is 3mm could that be the cause?

 

Edge of carb level 3mm below per spec.

 

All XJs are not the same, as there are several carb models from two different manufacturers used throughout the range.

Glen's fuel levels are to be 3 mm below the bowl top +/- 1mm.

 

Did they have those in stock, or did you hav to wait two weeks for them to come in?
What packaging did they come in?

I still suspect that they are not the right needles, though if your last bit of work fixed the problem it won't matter.

Did you use the crush washer that goes between the seat and the carb body?

 

I left a picture a few replies back. Pretty sure they are correct, but have a look.

 

No, they were not in stock. Yes I used a crush washer. Had the bike running. Synced 3&4 then ran out of gas. Topped it up and it flooded 1. Just talked to a buddy, and he tells me the carbs have to be exact when they are put back in, or they will have problems. Attached is the package the needles and seats came in.

 

Crying time............ :-(

 

I had just placed an order from you, and wasn't feeling all that great about myself for needing to place another the day after you shipped my order. Might be another lesson learned. Sorry Len.

 

K&L are one of the brands that have float needle problems. I still have a set on my bike and had no trouble, but others have had a hell of a time with them. I suspect that sometime after I bought my set, and people started having trouble with them that K&L decided to cut their manufacturing costs and send needles that were "close enough" for the BSC 32 and 33 carbs instead of continuing to make the correct ones.

 

They used to be correct, and then something....either on K&L's end or (more likely) their supplier's end changed....a long time ago. And then the world became dark.

 

For F*** sake. I let everything cool down so the gas would evaporate, and tried again to sync 1&2. 1&3 flooded this time so I shut it down for the night. Another oil change coming tomorrow. Just wondering if I should try to polish the seats, to see if that helps? Any help would be fantastic right about now!

 

No, it won't.

 

Looks like I'll need to place an order then.

 

Went to the Yamaha dealer to get a refund on the needles and seats. They are going to contact the supplier to see if a refund is possible. I'll loose my sh** if there is no refund coming back. New needles and seats are on order from the best supplier around, XJ Forever!!!

 

can't hurt

i still have the rubber tip jobbies in mine
if it drips over night the petcock is ka-put

 

Just rebuilt the petcock, and I was using a lawnmower tank with the vacuum line clamped off. Ordered new parts from Len, which I should have done in the first place.

 

While I'm waiting for parts to come, I also need to do my fork seals. I have the forks off, have watched the videos, but none of them show the air assisted forks. Any tips for me?

 

I can't push the top piece down to get the clip out, not can I get the air fill valve off. Not even sure if I have to. Any help would be great.

 

Are these the forks you have on your bike?

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1983/seca-xj900rk/front-fork

These DIY How To Instructions should help

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/doing-the-750-secas-forks-rebuild-now-a-how-to.18730/

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj900rk-anti-dive-stripdown-how-to-with-pics.44997/

 

Nope. Mine have an air valve on top. There is some rust around the edge of the top piece that I think I'm supposed to push down onto get the clip out. I can't push it down.

 

If the air valve is off the top of the fork leg you can place a socket on the cap, turn the leg upside down on a hard surface and compress the slider. That can free the top cap under the circlip. Someone here used a three legged puller but the fork leg was attached to the yolk to compress the cap slightly, then he took the circlip out. Hope this helps I have not worked on the air forks before.

 

Thanks for the input!!! Going to put them back on the bike and see if that helps to push the top cap down.

 

I tapped a wedge of wood between the handle bar and the top cap. I pried the clip out from the side closest to the tank with a small screwdriver, and slid a smaller screwdriver under and slid it around until the clip piped out. I did both rusty clips in under 10 minutes. Now for the bottom Allen bolt. Would anyone have any idea what size bolt is used with a socket and extensions to loosen the Allen bolt?

 

Going to give this a try tomorrow. I think this gut has the most awesome video for this problem!

 

This is what l used which was cut off an old coil spring compressor for a car shock absorber. I never throw anything away.




Similar idea but this fits my half inch drive extension bar. 21mm is the bolt size you need.

 

So I could use the spark plug tool that comes with the bike?