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Have to use Instant Start

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by bpberk62, Jan 11, 2006.

  1. Aschulhoff

    Aschulhoff Member

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    here is a pic... strait off my xj550 bike :p

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Injuhneer

    Injuhneer Member

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    If you don't add a seal between the big washer and the head the #1 or #4 carb will be leaking to atmosphere and be very rich when you pull the tool out and put the plug back in.
     
  3. jamescomp

    jamescomp Member

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    hi fellows i thought id try and see if i could make one of these been under the weather for a few weeks here.
    i thought inderstood what goon was saying about making this manometer
    but then i looked at the pic and all i can see is 2 clear tubes with tranny fluid in them wheres the fitiings and vacuum hoses go that you talk about ? i even copied the pic to a folder and tried blowing them up to no avail . it looks to me like 2 pieces of clear hose atached to somthing long bent in a u shape.? how would that work then ? just atach a tube between carb 1 and 2 and then the other between 3-4 and ajust till their eqaul ?if so then why do you need these fittings and seperate vacuum hose ?couldnt you just use the 2 of the same size hoses that goes from petcock to vacuum on carb 3( (on xj750) one for 1-2 and one for 3-4 ? goon do you have a better pic of this ? i dont understand it sorry for asking stupid questions .

    thanks james
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    As I understand the device (I used mercury sticks, should be the same) the tubes that are attached to the top of the clear tubes would be fitted to the intake nipple on the manifold. You should make up two of these assemblies if you have enough material so you can look at all four cylinders simultainiously. Otherwise, your hopping back and forth between cylinders. Hope this is helpful.
     
  5. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Men:

    You make-up 4 Inline Vacuum Buffers.

    You buy the Plastic Union pieces that you use to connect two lengths of hose.
    A UNION or splice-piece or whatever you call them. Union I guess?

    You cut a Carb Cleaner Red Tube in half and run it completely through that Union.
    Fill Union with Epoxy Resin.
    It hardens-up leaving you with a Red Tube glued solid through the middle of a plastic hose union.
    Razor blade time.
    Trim both ends flush.
    Make 4.
    Place one of these 4 "Reducers" in each line coming-off the Carb Intake hook-up's.

    This is going to seriously help settle-down the the Columns of Mercury, some ... making it easier and safer to take the Vacuum readings.

    Absolutely necessary if you are checking the vacuum using a pneumatic-type vacuum gauge.

    Dat iz zum Ole Skool shid ... rite dere.
    Who's tightened-up wid dat???
     
  6. Hired_Goon

    Hired_Goon Member

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    Not stupid, I know the pic was not the best. Will try and get a better pic of top and bottom when I get home tonight.

    Stay tuned.

    HG
     
  7. jamescomp

    jamescomp Member

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    thank you rick again for all your help i think all will agree your the "man"
    when people need a question answered you always know whats up.
    and im down wit da vachizle on my nizelle on the televizlle --------- homeboyeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    and thank you goon for repling and help also yea if you have another pic id realy like to see what you did on it.


    thanks guys i apreciate all your help.

    james
     
  8. Hired_Goon

    Hired_Goon Member

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    Got there at last, sorry it took longer. went away for the weekend and didn't get around to it.

    So, here is a better pic. Basically very simple. I use a very small tube so the ID doesn't hold much fluid. The black bits on the ends on the left simply have the clear tube forced into normal vacuum tube. These just go onto the vacuum nipples on the carb boots.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. gremlin484

    gremlin484 Member

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    Nicely done goon!

    Thats certainly a better design than mine... I ended up having a lot more parts than that.

    Very intuitive.
     
  10. SalCycle

    SalCycle Member

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  11. Maximator

    Maximator Member

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    A very clever idea. :)

    That looks like it's just aquarium airline tube? Can you give an idea of how long each tube is?
     
  12. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    "Hey, Rocky?"

    "Yes, BullWinkle."

    "Wanna see me pull a manometer audda my hat?"
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    (Meanwhile, outside of Silver City's Discount Tropical Fish Supplies for Money Squandering Fools with a Propensity to Overdo Everything and Buy Stuff They'll Just Be Throwing Away Shortly Regardless Of Much Easer Ways To Do Something With Far Less Vinyl Hose ... danger lurks in the shadows)
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    "Na-ta-ja. Zay hab maid mann-oh-meader from juzz zum stuve you use for da feegez dank."

    "Bore-eaze. Vee muzz quick zend peege-jures back to Fearless Leader."

    "No, Na-ta-ja. Virst vee keel Mooze und Ska-virle."
     
  13. mainexj550

    mainexj550 Member

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    I want to add my starting woes to the list.

    I got no start in the morning. But anytime else in the day it fires right up, immediately. Hot day, cold day doesn't matter.

    I do keep the bike covered at night to help prevent condensation build up.

    I don't have time to diagnose it in the morning though because I'm usually late for work and I start to see the neighbors poking there heads out the window wondering what all the noise is.

    It just cranks and cranks
     
  14. Maximator

    Maximator Member

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    Is it time specific, or just the first start of the day?

    If it's the first start of the day it could very likely be low battery power, which could be caused by corrosion in the electrical system, poor alternator performance, or a bad battery.

    Everything gets to draw it's power before the ignition, so it can crank without having much spark. Once it runs for a bit everything is warm and turning easier so it takes less power to turn over, leaving more power for the ignition for further starts that day.

    Mine usually behaves that way for the first start of the season, a jump gets it going right away.
     
  15. mainexj550

    mainexj550 Member

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    no its time specific.

    If I don't ride it for say 3 days, it will start right up as long as its after approx 9:30 in the morning.

    I personally think that its condensation on the ignition some where. I don't know how to prevent it without replacing expensive parts.

    It didn't start this morning, but when I get home after work it will start right up.
     
  16. Maximator

    Maximator Member

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    Perhaps you can use something to displace moisture in suspect areas, such as WD-40?

    Or else tell the boss that you have a good reason for him to let you sleep in later before coming to work. :p
     
  17. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    That manometer ... in the photo ... is designed to attempt to defy the Laws of Physics.

    There needs to be a "Plugged-in 5th Line" ... either drawing from a common reservoir, open to atmosphere ... or, filled and, not hooked-up to vacuum. to prevent the 4-Line only from collapsing-in on itself and/or displaying an inaccurate reading as it ... "Robs from Peter to Pay Paul"

    Stick a T in one of the lines at the Bottom ... add another line ... and let the vacuum pull-up some fliud ... rather than just trying to evacuate the 4-tubes of any air within!
     
  18. Casey

    Casey New Member

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    I had to use Instant Start when I first bought my XJ. One new battery latter I never needed the IS again.
     
  19. Hired_Goon

    Hired_Goon Member

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    Sorry Rick, 100% incorrect. The laws of physics are spot on with this manometer.

    To have a fifth line would be disaster. If it was open to anything it would just draw air into the system. If the fifth line was in a bottle of oil then it would suck oil into all four carbs.

    It has to be closed. Remember this is working with pure vacuum, not a weighted to atmosphere system.

    Robbing from peter to pay paul is the exact principle to get the carbs EXACTLY right.

    If one tube of oil is higher then it may have a vacuum of 2 millibar more then the other three. when adjusting, we are equalising the vaccum to be exactly the same by bringing that down 1 millibar and the other three up 1 millibar.

    When they all pull the same then perfection is complete.

    Now consider the differences that can be had with a carbtune type system.
    It uses four bars of metal equally weighted and uses the vacuum rushing past it to set it's level. Great principle.

    Now take into consideration if the unit has been used/abused a fair bit. Wear and tear on the weights can alter the precise weight of each bar. Vibration and wear can alter the internal diameter of the tube that the weight slides up and down in. Friction does do damage.

    Thus if one tube is worn by 1/1000th of a mm or the weight has a 1/1000th of a gram chip of it, then it will let more vacuum past it and the weight will go a little higher because it's lighter.

    Your a man who loves perfection Rick. Spend the 5 bucks and build one. Not only will you better understand the principle behind it, but you'll probably never go back.

    Cheers
    HG
     
  20. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    You KNOW I will.
    You know I'll test the results and compare the accuracy to:

    One Guage.
    Mercury.
    Straight Bench.

    I'm all over it.
    Well ... close.
    Maybe when the leaves turn Red and Fall arrives and we don't have Indian Summer or an exceptionally mild Winter.

    But ... I've already got both of our critiques saved ... so, it will be fun to revisit this after I go to the Aquarium Department in the Pet Supply Store and ask them or 50-feet of Vinyl Hose!
     

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