HELP! Is having a rev limiter necessary? Digital speedometer install.

Yes!

 

no many wannabes dont do maintanance just park the bike and get another

 

sometimes you can get away with a dirty clean and get the bike running and if carb issues develope dig in deeper.
I like to have a spare set on the shef all cleaned so I can evaluate the motor and ignition systems.
with 4 months of down time playing in the snow I have nothing better to do than do a deep clean replace the o rings and seals. that way I am ready to pick up those winter projects that every one abandones in the spring, and get them cheap

 

Awesome!
Gotta save some coin first... (student, 24 yo, married, with car, + pandemic..........)

 

Again; feel free to disagree, but don't insult me.

I'm not making things up, and never do.

I made no claims about the valves and seats deforming. Valve checks are every 5,000 miles or so, and most U.S. riders fail to have that done (which may or may not be the case in other countries). This is evidenced by the great number of used bikes that everyone on this site have bought and found valves that are near, or beyond 0.00 mm of clearance (or at the very least have more than a few valve clearances out of spec).

My comment about service being needed every ten years regardless of mileage was about the carbs, specifically the rubber parts that will degrade over time no matter how many or few miles the machine is ridden.

Fixing something picemeal takes more time and money than doing it right once, and interrelated systems have to be in proper working order because if one isn't, then the other won't work right either.

I think you are allowing our past disagreements about CV carb function (which I have since corrected myself about) to blind your view of me.

 

(Let's be friends here guys!)
So I did some stuff! Disclaimers; am a noob at this stuff and the garage my bike is at is a 30 min drive from my home. So bear with me as this prosess is gonna take me a whiiiiiile. Yesterday I got to my bike and thought "What if I check/correct valve clearences and correctly refurbish the carbs and it still won't work because a dead mouse is stuck in my exhaust?". This led me to remove the exhaust system and check out the pipes, they are good, didn't break any studs (success!!). Today I went back there (and picked up a new sparkplug on they way there) and tried starting the engine. The exhaust slightly leaked smoke from the engine and the exhaust link pipe... So if anybody has some "quick fix" to deal with that it would be extremely aprecciated!

As the bike was running, on three cylinders (mostly at least), I held a screwdriver onto different points on the engine while I put my hear on the handle of the screwdriver. I focused on where the areas that I think the different valves are located. I heard mostly a monotone kind of whistling sound from most of them, BUT the intake valve on cylinder no.1 sounded as if something was repeatedly hitting something and the exhaust valve on no.4 sounded similar but not as pronounced. I WILL follow up with a valve clearance check as soon as possible. Mostly because I believe the intake valve on no.1 isn't opening enough, which would explain why it isn't firing / or maybe it is firing, just not as frequently as the others. DOES THAT MAKE SENSE?

So, with the engine hot I unplugged the gas tank and float bowls, then I ran the bike until all the gas was out of the carbs. After this I unplugged sparkplug wire 2-4, leaving inly spark plug no.1 (new plug) connected. I then grabbed my starter fluid, opened up the throttle and pushed the start button at the same time as I squirtedcarb no.1 with the start fluid. I heard the cylinder turn over the engine a fies times/firing. (Just gave me some peace of mind actually hearing that cylinder do something)

 

Where were the other wires at during this test?
Did you have them out of the way over the frame, or were they laying on the head?

It's entirely possible that you have multiple faults causing the problem.

Do you have a multimeter?


For future refrence you must have a path to ground for each coil. The TCI can be damaged if there is no path to ground for the coil to discharge through on the secondary side.
It's probably fine at this point, but try to not do that again. Have at least one sparkplug per coil installed.

 

Your words @Kmoe:-

I'm not making things up, and never do.
↑
now then' which spin on filters have the valves in? are you refering to the ones Chacal sells.
i was planning on using a bog standard filter, like the one on my goldwing , now i'm confused
Alll spin on oil filters have a bypass valve built in. Every single one, regardless of manufacturer.
The old "standard" motorcycle oil filter is just the filtering element, which is why the bypass valve is in the bolt for the filter cover.

The old standard has made somewhat of a comeback since they are less expensive to produce (not that they cost less to buy), and have a lower impact on landfills.



As well as this you persisted with an argument that had no substance, just your ideas on how a cv carb works. So don't tell me you don't make things up - you are a person of some standing on this forum, and you should not be perpetuating myths.

Each an every time someone comes on here with a problem they are told to go to the church etc etc. Well all that's fine, but it kind of looks like you aren't allowed to own and enjoy an xj without going through some pain, kind of "a right of passage"? Surely, the first thing everyone needs to learn is how to diagnose faults, not listen to an online guru, who may or not be right? Stripping and rebuilding a rack of carbs is a serious undertaking, filled with potential disaster, and then who picks up the pieces?
Anyway, you are probably right, I'm being picky. Sorry, please carry on.

 

You see the above ^ - it's flawed. To spark no1 you must have no4 able to get to ground as well. This is how wasted soark works - the secondary winding of the coil has both ends outputting - to no1 and no4 in this case. The no4 lead may well have been arcing to the head, which is the only way no1 could be firing.
And now, if it did fire, that tells you no1 idle jet is either blocked, or the mixture screw, or its outlet is blocked, or the carb balance is way out. You do not need to break your rack down to 90 odd pieces to solve this.

 

You are still new here. You are basing your understanding of me on a few posts, which I have learned from. NOBODY is perfect, but for whatever reason you seem to think that my advice is never any good.

Move on if you must, but my advice is generally solid and reliable. We teach people here. We teach them how to avoid going to a mechanic, and how to turn their old unreliable machine into a reliable and enjoyable machine. We also discuss problems without being rude to each other (generally). Because it's OK to be wrong so long as we learn from each other.
There is more than one way to get a machine running, but the older the machine the more that has to be inspected and repaired. Money well spent if one wants to be able to just start-up and ride at the beginning of every riding season for many, many years.

 

Yes new, only 3 years. My understanding is based only on what I read, and sometimes that is deeply flawed, but you're right, nobody's perfect. But you will not be wrong, to the extent you refute all reason - that's my issue with you, and your advice is based on "yamaha designed a perect bike never question any of it". While I agree they did well, I have said before if it was that ggod they would still be selling them. To question is human, to try to improve is also - appreciating that one persons improving may well be destroying.
IDK, perhaps I shouldn't care, but there you go, we're all different. I tell you what, I promiss that in future, if I believe you are sprouting rubbish I will say it, plain and simple, but politely. How does that sound?

 

You misrepresent the basis of my advice. Entirely. And as to the assumption that I "refute all reason;" I've corrected myself more than once. Once again, the machine has no ego, and dosen't care about anyone's opinion.
It seems to me that you assume a degree of expertise that is not always evident in a new member here. The basics are to get a machine in proper working order with a minimum of frustraton, and a long service life after proper refurbishment. That standard was established long before I became a member here. I honestly don't understand what you have against me, or against the goal of new XJ owners having reliable daily riders with a minimum of fuss. Any questions beyond that belong in the XJ modifications forum.

You are smart, and knowledgeable. Please stop making every disagreement personal.

 

Thanks, didn’t know that would be dangerous.. yes I have a multimeter

 

Also just left the spark wires on the engine head...

 

Oops!
Never mind, hopefully no harm done. If you must crank the engine over with the plugs out you should remove the supply wires from both coils. If you want to check,spark on no1 you must earth no4 etc. Google wasted spark ignition.

So, did you consider my diagnosis above - that is either the carb balance is out, or the mixture screw is too far in, or you have a blocked idle jet and or passages?
First thing to check, in case you wondered, is the idle mixture screw - turn in slowly and gently to "soft bottom" , then out 2.5 to 3 turns.
Then whatever the results of this you need to balance all 4 carbs to the same vacuum - this works even if the pot is dead, and if it is still dead because the butterfly is closed then it will wake up.
If it doesn't, you have to remove the carbs - I would suggest draining the fuel from all, remove the set, but only strip no1. This will save you having to replace all the o rings etc. Make sure, using carb cleaner spray, that the idle jet and its passages to the idle holes (near the butterfly) are clear. Watch your eyes! If you're not sure the passages are clear take one of the other carbs apart to compare. If you have a blockage you can't shift then it really is "church" time, ultrasonic cleaning and all that.
Refit the set and set up the mixture - I do this by ear, but most advice here is to use a colortune - sounds to me like you need to learn how to listen to your engine to pick up the individual pulses, misses, bacfires - but this takes time. I do think it's unlikely you have been riding this on 3 cylinders all the time, more likely is the mixture or balance is out and it's missing on idle. Tickover should be silky smooth on these engines.

 

I haven’t touched the mixture screw and I could have messed up the synch (did it with homemade sync tool and no yics tool...). But like I say every message here, time is a commodity.. I will attempt a valve check today, and next on my list is the mixture screws and proper sync.

 

The TCI should be unplugged from the wiring harness. It can still potentially be damaged if there is no path to ground for the low-side. If the ignition was a CDI it'd be fine to just unplug the primary leads from the coils ( I think).

 

So i did the valve check, and all my clearances were too tight...
I’m ordering new shims, gonna cost me about 65 GBP, including Norwegian taxes/import fees, from yambits.

I stuffed 3 bent zip ties into the back end of the valve when it was open and it kept valves open enough to get the shim out every time. Thanks to this forum for providing me with the ziptie method!!!

is it possible to remove all the shims from the engine to try to bargain with a mechanic to get shims?
I was too scared that something would go wrong if I removed all the shims and turned the crank over with no shims...

I’m a total noob and it took me about 3-4 hours to check all the get the valve cover off, check all valves and shims and put everything back.

 

Do not remove all the shims and turn the crankshaft you can damage the edges of the cams doing that. There are photographs on here showing the damage. One shim at at time (and don't turn the crank) As Minimutly states. It does not matter how long you take getting it right is what matters.

 

Whatever you do, don't remove a single shim and then turn the engine over - the cam lobe will catch the edge of the follower - times 8 if you remove all. If you have patience and some suitable plastic you can make your own, but this is only of any value if mixing and matching saves you buying shims?
Edit to add - search bigfitz guide on here...

 

My engine was the same and after I replaced the shims it ran much better.

 

looking foreward to that!

Did yours have a bunch of "clacking" and "hissing" noices?

mine does. Also some occational knocking that goes away as the engine gets hot,hoping these things will magically dissapear

 

There was the occasional knocking sound but I could not find anything wrong with it after a full engine rebuild which I only did because it was necessary to replace the alternator chain guide, cam chain and starter clutch rollers and springs. You will get some hissing turning the motor over with a spanner. Replace your shims and see how it runs then.

 

The hissing is from compressed air leaking past the valves as they slowly open. Totally normal.
The clacking you heard was probably from the camchain as it didn't have constant tension while you were spinning it over by hand.

 

Maybe I was being unclear, I was not referring to any sound while turning the engine over by hand (or by spanner). I meant when the engine was running.
No "unatural" sound I noticed while turning the crank as I checked clearences. (I was just happy I was able to turn it lol)

 

Still waiting for shims to arrive... As I had some time on my hands I attempted to “fix” one of my bent passenger foot peg mounts...

Ended up breaking it instead. What should I do now? JB weld? Any aftermarket support?

(mocked up a muffler bracket for the meantime)

 

Ebay?

 

Yes cheap on e bay plenty of them there.

 

Ebay, unless you have a buddy that can weld aluminum in exchange for beer.

 

Oh what I wouldn't do for a friend who welds..... (sadface)

I ended up ordering one used locally (finn.no), he also sells a top triple tree he claims is for a xj 900 1984, but it has mounts for a handlebar. ( I really prefere handlebarrs.)

Do you guys think this is from an XJ 900 1984? Will it fit a 1983=?

 

It is, and it should.
Yamaha isn't one to make drastic changes to major components.

You could also just bolt on round-bar risers to the top yoke that's already installed. The castellatons for the bar adjustment will show though.

 

Turns out he already sold that part.. so I'm gonna have to do what you say here, that was the plan. Change brake hoses, lengthen wires and cables and put risers and bars. I think I will try to shave off the "castellatons" with an angle grinder and sanding wheel tho, to make it look better.

 

It's been done before. No worries there.

 

as long as he will weld for beer who cares if he is a friend

 

I ordered used footrest thing locally, from finn.no. Came early, painted them black, have yet to put them on.

The shims should be arriving soon to complete that valve job.

Today I had a look in carb no.1. Couldn't find anything, jets looked fine, cleaned them anyways with break cleaner and compressed air. Checked the choke passageway in the bowl too and the operation of the choke system whole thingy. SO, thinking everything else was good I attempted to adjust the mixture screw. STUCK! I tried once a week ago too and sprayed WD-40 and breakcleaner in there for a few days thinking it would help. I tried making a groove for the flat screw driver to grab with dremel tool, no luck. After about 2 hours of trying different things, inkluding "easy-outs" I gave up. (see picture below). I sprayed it with WD-40 again and called it a day. WHAT NOW? drill it out and replace it? anybody have any experience with this? THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR?

 

Pull the carbs. You’ll need to drill the rest of the threaded portion out. If you are at all hesitant about that take it to a machine shop. I’ll look up the drill size this evening after work.

BTW: WD-40 is not penetrating oil. Areo-Kroil, PB Blaster, and a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone are. Use one of those next time.

 

You're at the point of scrapping this body if you're not careful. Pity the recess around the screw remains is broken - you could have used that as a guide to centre the drill on. Now it's a question of how good you are with a drill, or do you have a machine shop? Ideally you need a guide and a left hand drill, maybe also a left hand m5 tap. But, this is easily cocked up. If you are really lucky, and/or careful you drill out the brass screw centre, leaving the thread in there. If you can't find the centre the carb will be scrap. Or it might as well be, I have rescued one that had the thread drilled out, by making an insert and pressing it in, but it took a lathe and small milling machine. Cheaper to buy a used body.

 

What if I just leave it in there and use jet sizes to adjust the mixture? (3 other mix screws work)

 

Jet sizes for the pilot (the only circuit that the A/F screw controls) won't provide fine enough adjustment. That's why the screw is there.

We still aren't entirely sure that the pilot circuit is entirely clean anyway, and it can't be properly cleaned with the screw in place.

As Minimulty said, either it has to come out, or you need a different carb body.
FWIW I would not do the job of drilling it out at all without a fixture, a drill press, and experience. Of course you could use it as a learning opportunity, and plan on buying a used carb body if you mess that one up.

 

Thanks for the perspective!
I’m obviously really worried about messing it up and I feel lucky that I didn’t destroy too much today...
I’ll do the valves, sync the carbs and if things sound good I’ll just leave it be... if it not I’ll send the carbs to a professional who can deal with the stuck screw. Gotta stop while it’s just fun and games.

 

Yes send it to a shop that's what I did as I didn't want to destroy my cylinder head.

 

Leaving it in there will leave you where you are now. the idle jet adjusts idle in conjunction with the screw, and progression phase as you open the throttle, but if the idle screw port is blocked nothing changes on tickover, so this is not the answer.
Also, taking this to a "shop" is no guarantee of success, unless they are experts at micro engineering. Seeing as these bodies are cheap and not rare, I'd look for a replacement, just in case.

 

Why not make sure the carb is empty, soak the screw with PB Blaster for a couple of days hit the surrounding aluminum with a torch to expand it and try to back the screw out? Aluminum heats quick and expands fast.

 

Because the screw is no longer a screw - take a look at the pics. Nothing wrong with a bit of heat, too late for this one unless something can grip it.

 

There's no slot for a screwdriver to grab.

 

Great insight guys! Truly surrounded by sages of XJs. The point you bring up now is that I already have an idle issue in that cylinder and the screw is a likely candidate causing the problem. And that it’s a risky AF job to get the screw out....

how about this? https://youtu.be/dNCGsRnPJ74

What if I:
-PB blast the sucker for a few days (which K-moe appropriately pointed out I haven’t done)
-Shave off the aluminum casing around the screw JUST to get enough screw to hold on to with needle nose pliers?

smart/dumb?

 

Yes to the penetrating oil, yes to shaving off the casting to get a purchase, but I'd get some heat on it as well. The quality of pliers is crucial

 

Thanks!

I'll use my creme-brulee torch (mini butane blow-torch, Cocraft).

 

Just make sure that it's only some heat. Aluminum gives no indication when it's about to transition from solid to liquid. You don't need to use the torch for more than a minute to get it warm enough, and just like with creme-brulee, keep the torch moving so the heat is even.

 

Thanks! Love the creme brûlée analogy.