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HeLP!

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by MadMaxim85, Jun 11, 2009.

  1. yamaman

    yamaman Member

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    which little port? got a pic?
     
  2. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    You know how you unscrew the float bowl screw to drain the carb well? On carbs 2 & 3 the outlet port is blocked by what appears to be plastic (or something.) Fuel comes out the float bowl drain screw hole.

    I'll take a pic tomorrow.
     
  3. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Get an Inline FUEL Filter working for you.
     
  4. meister66

    meister66 New Member

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    Gas tank sealer ? Is the inside of the tank clean ?
     
  5. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    Nope, as far as I know, no sealant. So those ports should be open. It's okay to poke them with a sharp object to open them up?
     
  6. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    Already got one. Thanks goodness. The fuel line I bought (3.99 a foot!) started degrading (it had a blue inner core) and I could see little pieces of it inside the fuel filter. But I changed that out and was still having trouble.
     
  7. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If there are little pieces of it inside the fuel filter there are much tinier remnants in your carbs, betcha anything.

    If the carbs WERE TRULY clean; pull the rack and yank the float bowls, flush/blow everything out REAL WELL, replace the bogus fuel line everywhere it's fitted; clean out your petcock (it's upstream of the fuel filter) and hope for the best.
     
  8. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    Luckily, I only used one small piece (between petcock and fuel filter). The rest was used on my aux gas tank setup. Carb bits have been soaking all night in carb cleaner. I had about a foot of decent fuel line that I am replacing the other bits with. However, I didn't see any of the blue bits anywhere inside the carb, just inside the fuel filter (yay!) but am cleaning them out anyway.

    That weird amoeba creature tho... that was odd. I'm trying to decide a name for him.
     
  9. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Jose Cuervo............? 8O
     
  10. coachholland

    coachholland Member

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    There are several little tubes within the carbs, so I'd like to see what you're referring to before I say go start poking. A simple carb soak, boil, whatever isn't going to clean your carbs if the ports are blocked.. sometimes you need something to actually get in there and clean them out. On the really small ones, I used guitar string to clear the passages. Once you spray carb cleaner through those passages and the stream comes out nicely out the other side, then you know you truly have them clean. If nothing gets through or only a little gets through, then they sare still blocked. Those carb cleaner, guitar string and compressed air to blow through the passages comes in very handy when cleaning your carbs.

    So did it start spraying directly in with the carbs off?
     
  11. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    I don't know what that crud was, but after poking it with a special tool I have, the stuff came right out. It was a mix of some white stuff (almost like the consistency of dried polishing compound) and dirt.

    The good news is, IT STARTS! IT RUNS! It still needs a good tuning, but for now, the bike is on the road.

    I posted a video on my blog. Check it out!

    And thanks to everyone who made suggestions. Over the next week, I am going to be working to get it 100%, but I'm happy with the 96% for right now.
     
  12. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Good job! Sounds great! That hangin idle is an air leak of an unsynced carb. Got the 2 glass bottle method??
    We have the same bike, but for some reason it looks smaller than mine on your video! Maybe its my imagination.
    Oh well, enjoy riding sir!
    -Christoph
     
  13. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    air leak? Could explain the poor sync results I experienced. Check my blog (haven't figured out how to post video here yet... but I will.) For now, here's a photo. I'm not sure why #3 is causing me so much difficulty, but as you can imagine, it makes it tough to sync correctly.

    Ideas?
     

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  14. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Major AIR Leak preventing Manifold Vacuum at Intake Manifold.

    Where the Intake Manifold seats to the Cylinder Head MOST LIKELY.
    O-ring Seal aged and no longer Air Tight.
    (Seal the Manifold to the Head with a Smeared-in Bead of RTV Sealant all around the Manifold)***
    ***Removing the Manifold RISKY if Cap Screws are seized. High Probability.

    Other factors:
    Bad Manifold or Shaft Seal Air Leaks
    Rings
    Valves
    Worn Cam Lobe on 3
     
  15. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    That is a really really cool meter!! I want one!
     
  16. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    I've looked, and it appears to be a tight seal. Can I use propane or starter fluid safely here to test?
     
  17. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    That's a Morgan Carb tune... awesome piece of equipment.
     
  18. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Guess who carries them in stock......... :D
     
  19. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Do you have that Gauge hooked-up 1, 2, 3, 4

    Or is the Photo right: 4, 3, 2, 1 ???
     
  20. MadMaxim85

    MadMaxim85 Member

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    1 is on the far left, correct? (following the coil numbering) but it seems to be backwards when it comes to the carbs (which are imprinted 4,3,2,1 in that order.) If that's the case, then the port on the manifold that is open for the tank vacuum is #2 (2nd port over from left). I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that cylinder 3 is the one with issues, when in fact it is cylinder #2.

    Why does this have to be so confusing?

    :)
     

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