How to convert to LED's and still have everything work

I was trying to find out watts but it's not listed on the description, I posted the question, maybe they answer it however, here is the link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJJ9CXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Well after waiting for Amazon they, finally deliver the right Capacitor, the blinking is better but it is not the same as when the engine is not running ( still kinda hyper flashing ) and still not lighting the last led in the flasher light, any thoughts?

 

Try it from the load pin (L) to ground

 

I will this afternoon, this morning I finally got a job interview. Thank you.

 

same, its better but still not the same as when the engine is off, wonder if this is a lack of restive load because I replace the bulbs for LEDs in the gauge cluster, another detail is in the gauge cluster the indicator led blink only when the switch is set to the left side. but not when is on the right side.
It is a way to measure the voltage with a multimeter on the flasher with or without the engine running? Not a master at this but I can try.
Thank you so much for expending time helping me.

 

You would really need a scope to evaluate that signal to see if it is false triggering and short cycling, but I don't think there is much doubt since the indicator bulb is also short cycling. One thought is you might try installing a standard incandescent bulb in the front or rear and see if that changes the behavior with a bit more load on the CF-13 flasher. If it helps then maybe just go back to standard incandescent bulbs for the indicator bulbs or try that first if it's an easier option.

All three lamps per side, front flasher, rear flasher, and indicator bulb are in parallel. Therefore, if the indicator lamp is not flashing / illuminating it is either a blown bulb, bad wiring, or the LED you installed is polarized and it is in backwards.

I think the way those LED flashers work is a specialized internal micro controller that will actually work without the flasher relay. In other words anytime they have power applied they are going to sequentially illuminate until power is removed. That means you could theoretically run without a flasher relay, but you would not have an indicator that flashed but instead would just illuminate when signalling left or right. You could try that by installing a jumper at the flasher relay connector from B to L on the main harness.

And then there is punting and trying another LED relay, perhaps one of the 2 pin versions.

 

ok I will try with more load in the CF-13 them I will go with a 2 pin flasher, but I saw videos on youtube the same bike, CF-13, and the led lights working fine. I'm doing something wrong here. I will keep trying. But, weird, it works fine with the engine off.
Thank you for your time helping me

 

I got LED flashers for my 84 fj600. I'm not worried about the auto cancel feature. I have the same cheap orange flasher shown on the previous page of the thread, and can be seen here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32805479208.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dmtIjts

It doesn't have a ground terminal.

Can someone help me understand how I should wire up the new relay? Not worried about the auto cancel feature. Just want my flashers to work. Thanks!

 

I don't own one of these bikes but I do have some wiring diagrams but that means I have to make my best guess.

So, if you have the 41R-71 Relay Unit then you have a combo starter cutoff relay and flasher / auto cancel unit combined into one assembly. If you want to run LED's without load resistors you will have to do some creative wiring and use a different relay than the internal one in the 41R-71. The one that you posted above would be fine.

To wire it you would:

From the combo unit remove the Brown and Brown / White wire from the engine harness connector.

Simply connect the Brown wire to the B terminal and the Brown / White wire to the L terminal. This is where you would have to get creative as the extracted wires will not mate with the new relay. You will have to either make an adapter cable to connect the wires or replace the terminals on the extracted wires to fit the new relay.

 

Thank you!!!

I will report back with my results, and perhaps even pictures!

Thanks for taking the time.

 

Thank you! The LED blinking relay wiring worked just as you explained. Connect the Brown wire to the B terminal and the Brown / White wire to the L terminal, and Bingo!


I do however have one additional issue that I'll have to troubleshoot with this Halo style headlight. For anyone who's familiar the headlight comes with the regular low/high beam three prong connector an additional connector for the Halo which is connected back onto the the low beam terminal, and a single wire to which you can connect the turn signals so that the Halo blinks orange when one of the turn signals is activated.


I thought I was very clever and I connected this single turn Halo wire to a crimp with two wires going out of it, one going to the left and one the right turn signal wires that drive the instrument cluster, not the lights them selves. I have seen some instrument clusters which only have a single turn signal, not separate Left/Right signals. *** I thought because my bike has separate left and right cluster lights that I would be fine to wore it this way, and I would not end up wiring both turn signals together. However, I was dead wrong. If I connect both the left and right indicators from the wired that drive the cluster to the single terminal of the Halo headlight when I turn either blinker on both blink. So, for now I only have one side plugged in.



Can anyone help me figure out how to wire this properly?

I hope my explanation was clear. I'm not familiar with electrical terminology, so sorry if my explanation is confusing.

 

The way you wired the halo light it has now effectively become a single turn signal indicator. To fix all four flashing just add the diodes as if it were a single indicator. So, where you have one wire from the halo splitting into two wires you would need to install a single diode in series in the two wire split. The cathodes will tie together connecting to the halo, and the anode will connect to the left and right indicators. You can make your own or it's super cheap here:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/

There is also a diagram in the bottom of that link, you can go directly to step two as the halo should already be wired with one end attached to ground since they only provided one wire to run it.

The lights and indicators are wired in parallel as two separate sides, so electrically it is the same point just so you know you can pick the point that makes for the easiest and cleanest configuration.

 

Thank you very much Rooster 53 ! I now know what a diode is after doing some preliminary research based on your comment.


I would order the part that you linked, but since I live in Canada the cost is not $2 but $8 and the shipping is outrageous. So I'm off to the electrical supply house this aft.

One good thing about living in Canada, if you're relatively frugal it helps make you more self-reliant and industrious. When I see the cost of items and the low price of shipping on sites like Amazon or Ebay in the US I just drool.

 

After reading through everything, it's my understanding that converting the headlamp to LED leaves you with no alternative but to live with the blinking warning light? Tail light warning can be overcome with rectifiers...no bueno on the headlamp.

Just checking I am understanding this correctly.

 

Nope. Take a look at Page 3. There's a ton of info I'm fuzzy on. There's a way to change the wires around and make it work, but it's been a while.

 

Thank you...I thought that was just for the SECA Turbo.

Looks like grounding both of the reed switches is the suggestion. I may just remove the red warning indicator light as I don't like playing with old board components.

 

Sorry about the late reply. You can ground everything in the headlight box itself, IIRC. I believe I put a 1k resistor between the high and low beam and rerouted the high beam indicator on the dash and it all worked in the end.

 

Listen to rooster 3 he's the best