Idle at 6000RPM, what to do?

Hey guys,i finally got the problem pinpointed. After removing the gastank draining the carbs and replacing the gasline with a longer one to be able to sync, i noticed that after refiling the carbs some of the needle valves did not seal. They are new, but somehow they get stuck sometimes. Did any of you experiance the same problem?

 

Float needle valves get stuck open when they are left to dry for weeks or months, the needles act as if they don't want to slide freely all the way up in the seats. Tapping on the carb bowls with a screwdriver handle usually free them.

 

Soulds to me like the usual primary chain tensioner noise that is present at idle. The 550 uses a hydraulic tensioner, so when oil pressure is on the low-side of normal (as when idling) the primary chain will be slightly slack. Not every 500 will make the noise, but the resident (currently emeritus) xj550 guru always said that it's nothing to worry about.

 

very common on first fill so do not drain them after filling. better with the gas left in them.
if you still have the side covers you will find some info in them that contridicts factory service manual. mine says to set rpm at 1200 not the 1050 stated in fsm.
also 2 extra ounces of oil (still maintain the bubble in the sight glass) helped with the chain noise then setting to 1200 rpm it was gone.

 

I'm so excited about this post. Ive been digging through the forums looking for a solution for my problem. I found half of the gasket between intake boot and block missing. I've got a high squeak and it's running lean. Engine gets so hot I'm seeing white wispy smoke. I've got new gaskets coming tomorrow. I hope it fixes my issue. Bike runs fine (except the heat) but idle screw is back out out about 5 turns.

 

That would do it. BE really careful when removing the machine screws; they like to break. Use a good penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster). Spay some around the base of the intake boots every day for about a week before you try to remove the screws.
Start a thread for your bike so we can help you with any other problems along the way.

 

Also make certain whatever tool you use to remove them remain straight in the allen heads. It won't take much of any angle to snap one.

Gary H.

 

Thanks to you both, I'll be heading over today with some PB. You mean the screws holding in the boots to the block right?

 

Correct; to the head.

 

Seriously take your time getting them out. My bike came to me with 3 busted off from PO. I easily snapped the first one I tried to remove.

 

(areo) kroil is well worth the extra money I paid 12$ for a 12 ounce can had to ask for it at the counter.
much better than the PB blaster. I only use it where it would be hard to remove broken screws. Pb blaster every where else.
I also use a product called fluid film another good product but costly can be purchased in gallon cans it is also used for under coating frames for cars and trucks.
if you soak frozen Items in it it removes the rust